I replaced the parking lights just above the fog lights with the WLED-xHP15-T from Superbrightleds, the white light looks so much better than the stock light...
I'm getting a code, but only for the left bulb... The car computer is calling it a parking light... I tried to change the cold & warm check with NCSExpert but could only find parking1 and parking2 for the bulb checks, neither have any effect... has anyone had any luck changing the coding for the parking lights?, if so, which parameter is it?..... Thanks

 

I changed the parking lights but got no code, order mine off ebay so not sure of the exact specifications.

 

Hey all. I noticed all your testing are the Superbrightled.com's bulbs, but I also found http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm has high power ones. I DID order a set of the 30bulb SMT tower for my Fit's 3rd brake light....and while it was about the same brightness, the color was a TAD off. I wasn't overly happy that it was NOT as bright.
Has anyone did a side by side comparison of any bulbs they ordered and know which is brighter than the stock bulbs? Yeah, I can order the 30$ per bulb ones, but....if I don't HAVE too

I would want to replace the side and front turnsignals mostly.

 

and all of which have NOTHING TO DO WITH CARS.

 

Okay, I'm super interested in doing the LEDs but I've read this thread many times but I'm confused. What lights require the resistors to prevent errors?

Thanks,

 

If you buy canbus bulbs for the WLEDx6 on the driving lights(just above fogs) and the license plate you will not get codes. The rest of the WLED's are not monitored. On the towers you need to by the 42 light towers rather than the 18 light towers, they are more expensive, but they don't need the time and money to put in resistors. The bulbs that are monitored are:
Headlights, Turn signals(each one indiv), Parking lights, Running lights, Brake lights, reverse lights and license plate

 

Where can I purchase the canbus bulbs from, superbrightleds.com?

Thanks,

 

You can find canbus bulbs all over the internet.....I know I got some from china or somewhere for like $5 for a set of 2 or something. Just type in the type of bulb and the word canbus on a google search and that should get you started. I think the company I used was woomaa.com and I ordered the Canbus T10 W5W 194 5 SMD LED Car Side Light Bulb

 

Guys... I replaced the parking ligts months ago... Very nice of course, but they don't match the xeno 4300°k...

Do you have problems also in the USA to find 4300/4500°k led ? Here in europe seems like they don't exists! :(

 

Hey guys,

I have the replacement LEDs for the Parking lights above the fogs, what's the easier way to remove them? (without removing tire)

I found the cap that twists off but once in there, I can feel where the light bulb is but how do I remove it?

Thanks,
Jose C.

 

Push and twist counter clockwise. The whole thing will back out of the reflector.

 

Geoffrey,
Thx for your post. Unrelated, but first I outfitted my 2008 S2k with LEDS and no resistors were required ; however I did need to change my relay to an LED compatable relay to eliminate "hyper flash".

As for my 2010 Cooper, I have replaced the boot light, glove box and side markers with LEDS containing no resistors and have had no light out indicators. I purchased all of my leds at superbrightleds.com and I can tell you that some of their led replacement suggestions for the 2010 base are incorrect so I suggest everyone pull their bulbs before ordering theirs. Last, can you tell me what other bulbs I can safely replace with " resistorless leds " on the 2010 R56 or base Cooper ? Put another way, which leds if replaced with a simple led will trigger a bulb out message on the computer ? Thanks in advance. Peter

 

The ones that throw errors are:
Anything on the front of the car.
Anything on the back of the car including the license plate lights.
That's as easy as it is. Sides and inside do not.

To avoid resistor need. Use 45 light towers NOT 18. The only place you need the more expensive wedge style bulbs is on the welcome lights just above the fogs and the license plate. Those need to be CANBUS, not typical W5W's.

Hope that helps.

 

Geoff,
Thx for your reply. I'm trying to take some load off my alternator as well improve appearance so I'll stick with the inside and sides to improve upon, that said outside of color what bulbs fit in the front amber and rear red side markers ? - are they w5w's too ? I'm buying them from superbrightleds, but as may have already discovered their suggested bulb replacements don't always fit. So far I've done the boot, glovebox ( BTW, folks this a festoon bulb, however the boot is a plain w5w bulb and is not a festoon as superbrightled suggests )and soon I will replace the rest of the interiors with W5W's bright whites. I also plan to do the hood, but I'm not sure if I'm going to wire the bulbs to a mercury type switch, or use a simple button type switch. I appreciate your help and info. Last could you elaborate on the canbus bulbs and which bulbs are the welcome bulbs ? Are they the amber bulbs in the front headlight assembly that blink when the key fob is pressed ? Many thanks again. Peter

 

Take look through the thread, I think you'll find the answers have already been given.

 

Found it. Thanks. Warning to all who order from Superbrightled.com the boot bulb for the 2010 mini is not a festoon bulb as listed, but rather a WLED-xHP5 replacement for a w5w bulb. Thanks to all who contributed to the thread. As soon as I figrue out what to do with the engine compartment light switch I will post it. Peter

 

im on the superbrightled web page. do you mean the 45 light tower 1157 bulbs? the salesman says i still need the load resistors. i cannot even find the wires to add the resistor on my front turn signals. can you confirm that im looking at the right bulb and i do not need a load resistor? i bet those have good light output and hopefully takes the eggyoke look out of my clear housings and thanks for all the work/threads you've done to help your fellow countrymen!

 

Yes 45's. I edited the post, thanks. As for resistors, it is my experience that the 45's pull enough current to satisfy the computer. I believe others have had the same experience. As for LED's in the front turn signal:
1. I think the look bad, I prefer the silver coated traditional bulbs, but that's my preference and the only place I recommend an incandescent over an LED.
2. On the technical side, the LED's won't last very long up there due to the heat created by the headlights, LED's don't like to be hot.
3. If you did have to put a resistor on the turn signal for some reason(I hope I have given you two reasons not to. The wire comes through the back of the main harness that attaches to the back of the headlight. I have the diagram somewhere as to which color is which, but I can't be bother to dig it up right now.

Hope that helps.

 

GeoffreyM, when you get a chance, can you please post the diagram for the wires on the front turn signals. theta has schooled me on led's and now after seeing his youtube clips im ready. i've been reading your threads. were you saying to add load resistors to all the wires inline or connect the hot and groung with the resistor?

 

I don't have them all mapped but the two I know for sure are:
Blinker is Green w/light green stripe
Brights is Yellow w/Red Stripe
Brown is the ground the whole car round.

If you don't have those specifically, let me know and I'll look at the harness and give you locations instead of just colors.

 

PS Countryman-S. Resistors are ugly and as you've read they kick off serious heat. They will burn you if you touch them when they are active. That said, if you are doing the 45 tower, I would test it before you commit to putting on a resistor. You may not need it.

 

And I just noticed your in Birmingham. Why don't we get together and I can code all this stuff for you. I'm in New Orleans.

 

GeoffreyM, that would be awesome. i have read and read the coding forums, and to be honest some of the steps required are above my comfort zone and knowledge. i would be just stumbling through it not really sure if i'm screwing something up or doing it correctly. i have found some amber canbus led's but they are $60.00 compared to the non-canbus for 18.00 plus 10.00 for the resistors. the wireing harness that plugs into my headlights have small wires on one side and larger wires on the other. i do not have a green with light green wire, but i do see a small yellow with red stripe wire on the bottom of the harness closest to the motor side. directly above that yellow/red wire is larger wires brown, then white/green stripe, then brown on top. i do have the xenon with adaptive headlights. did you code out your lights? i'd kinda like the car to tell me if a lights out, instead of a police officer, ect..

 

Reviving this thread.

I'd like to get Warm White or Cool White for my 2012 Countryman S with the white turn signal lens.

I'm confused about the 1156-x45-T: 45HP-LED BA15S and the 1157-x45-T: 45HP-LED BAY15D. Which one do I need, I see conflicting info in the thread, some say 1156 and others 1157.

Thanks in advance...

 

the best way to tell is to remove the bulb and look at the bottom. if there is 1 contact in the middle its 1156. if there are 2 contacts then they are 1157's. you can type in your type "1156 or 1157" in ebay and find tons of options. to avoid having to install resistors "which was easier than i thought" also include error free LED, or canbus LED. those bulbs have the resistors built-in, but cost more. there is a thread in the electrical section called " LED switchback bulbs, do not use" that explains alot of things about led's and is worth checking out before you buy. i hope this helps.