I'm pretty sure a small amount of current is constantly passed through the bulbs so a resistor or. Another set of canbus bulbs may eliminate the dimness... I haven't yet decided what to do... But they don't require a resistor to prevent an error message..

 

And by the way the front map lights have 6 torx screws to contend with... 2 different sizes... So prepare!

 

The 2 small covers for the map lights pop off without taking everything apart. It's not necessary to remove the 4 screws on the back. I used needle nose pliers to pull the original map lights out and just pushed the new LEDs in.

 

I, being of very unsound body and mind most of the time, tried that and I was scared to death of breaking the bulb.. Someone also suggested using rubber tubing... That would probably work as well... AnyOne else getting the dim front map lights?

 

Hi
I managed to change doors bulbs.
But I can't remove the shelf on the roof and map light.
Any instructions?
Thanks

 

Geoffrey, I love those 4-series grill fog lights. I gotta ask if it is possible to get those installed on mine!

 

Next, by the shelf on the top do you mean the dome light lens ? IF so, it snaps on and off - there are 2 or 4 perforations on the edge of the lens. JUst push lens forward or backward with minimal pressure and pull down. If it does not move try it the other way using only your hand and "MINIMAL" pressure. It should come off easy using just 1 hand so don't get carried away with trying to remove it.
As for the map light, just use both hands and slide the map light bezel sideways toward each respective door. Takes a little strength, but it will slide/snap out. Slide/snap inward to replace. Wrap tape like an ice cream cone around the old bulbs to remove. Replace LEDS observing polarity.

 

Just front map lights left.
I can not remove them...
Any help?

 

--

 

Map LEDS do not require resistors. Any light on the inside or the sides of the car DO NOT require resistors. Those in the front and rear of the car MUST bereplaced with resistor laden LEDS. As for the vanity light they are ugly, but people have enough problems with them so I just going to leave them alone as the visors are quite fragile and problem plagued as per another thread.

 

OR...regular LEDs can be used if you (or someone) codes-out the lamp checks using NCS Expert. Since load resistors get quite hot, I'm not sure of the long term viability of an LED unit in such close proximity to such a heat source. Smarter folks than I can probably "shed more light" on the issue.

 

Excellent point. Cheaper resistors do not hold up well in hot unventilated applications. If anyone knows more about using the NCS expert to code out the lamp check please tell us more. I would not replace with an LED if it still required a resistor as that removes part of the reason (reduced energy consumption) to replace it anyway.

 

Everything you could possibly want to know about using NCS Expert for settings changes on the R60 is contained in the following thread: Modifications::Electrical::Countryman-Specific Coding - R60 Guide. Theta and several other luminaries have assembled quite a thread and have provided guides, links, and support for the NCS Expert community. Start with the first post (a terrific introduction) and work your way forward. The software is free and requires an up to date datens file that gets posted to the thread fairly soon after it hits the MINI dealers. You will also need to purchase a cable that connects a USB port on your Windows PC (or Mac with a Windows virtual machine) to the OBD-II port on the R60.

Note that NCS Expert is not limited to turning off lamp checks. You can make settings changes for one-touch (actually, two-touch) auto sunroof open/close, keyfob open/close of whole car, weather radio activation, killing the key gong, etc.

Have fun!

 

I found it easier to remove the whole module. Then you can do it from the back with no risk of breakage. YOu can remove the whole switch/light/microphone assembly quite easily with torx bits. Then you unplug the wiring harness and can move to a workbench or your lap and have it all done fairly quickly and then snap it all back into place.

 

I removed the whole module. I did have a little panic attack when the rubber gasket flew apart spraying the little switch parts everywhere. Luckily it's an easy fix, but something to keep in mind after removing the last torx screws. It's a much safer bet to change the bulbs from the top, like it was designed.

I used 4 surface mount LED 194 bulbs. Not terrible bright, but they work.

I also changed the scuttle lights to 1.5w amber LEDs, and coded out the bulb check on the license plate lights to use 4 SMD downward facing PCB 194 bulbs.

 

The nice thing about changing the license plate lights to high power 194 LEDs is the illumination on the ground behind the car. We were in a restaurant parking lot the other night and I lost my (precious) USB drive. There was enough light cast from the license plate LEDs for me to spot it on the ground before my foot "compacted" it! Think of them as rear "puddle lights".

Speaking of that, I'm surprised that there isn't a light on the hatch so that it illuminates things from overhead when open...hmmmm...

FWIW,

 

I did the puddle lights with the same LEDs...they are flat PCBs with 4 high power leds that point straight down. They really light up the ground much more than the incandescent 194 bulbs.

I did have to lightly use the dremel to sand the edges of the PCB for the 'bulb' for the license plate light holders.

 

 

Cool. IF you or anyone can give me the 411 on coding out the license plate bulb check and the gong I would be much obliged. I hate my gong. Thanks. If your in Austin and will do this for me I will make it up to you. I have to have shoulder surgery again soon and will be an unable to do anything for after Sept 21st for a while. Thanks in advance. Peter

 

Take a look at the Countryman Specific Coding thread. The entries that have to me set are listed there. You will need a cable (eBay also listed in the thread) and a copy of Windows XP.

 

Can anyone who has installed the 1156-R45-T Red SMD led bulbs from Superbrightleds.com tell me if they are brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs? I would like to tint the taillights on my Countryman, and I just want to get something a little brighter in there to offset darkening the lens. Are these worth the $25 each?

 

Anybody...?

 

Not I.

 

Yes they are brighter and yes they are worth it.

 

Thank you GeoffreyM!