Drivetrain Megan Header experiences
Hello guys! I was wondering if anyone ran into this problem with the Megan headers. My 02 sensor that are on the headers is so close to the heat shield that I cannot plug my 02 sensor in. What can I do? Is it bad to run my car without it and only the 02 sensor on the cat? Thanks!!
*The pictures are on this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-headers.html
-Paul
*The pictures are on this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-headers.html
-Paul
It seems like it is still too close. With the heat shield off, it just gives a little more space. I just took my heat shield off and I'll see if I can fit it tomorrow. I doubt it though. Do you have Megan headers?
I ran the car for about 10 blocks. So, I took the shield off, and it fits now, but I don't have a long enough 02 sensor since the sensor is placed way lower than the original place. Is is possible to buy a longer one? I just need a little more length. Also, is it bad to drive it a little bit? No freeway, just little city blocks.
Neutral
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I installed a 17% pulley, header, one ball exhaust, and DIY cold air intake all at once. Now I just need a tune. It is noisier than expected (coming from a supercharged e46). Seems to run good but here in Anchorage Alaska we have finally been getting are snow so it is a bit hard to really tell at the moment. The usual P0420 code came.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 1
From: CT
as pointed out by another member, to me becasue i just got a megan/M2 header from outmotoring. any one have this issue?
also anyone have issues passing emissions at all? i got one one those o2 spacers with the catalytic material in side if it so hopefully it wont through a code.
edit: also when did they update there headers? the test pipe section looks different from everyone else. you think they fixed the crappy resonator?
edit: also when did they update there headers? the test pipe section looks different from everyone else. you think they fixed the crappy resonator?
Last edited by GreekDrifter91; Jan 24, 2014 at 09:05 PM.
Finally, some nice pics. 
It's difficult sorting through hundreds of posts especially since there's so much conflicting/old information.
I've been trying to decide between OBX and Megan headers. I want to use an OEM cat, and I'll definitely have solid motor and transmission mounts are installed.
After all the reading, I still have these questions:
1) Do the current Megan headers still have poor port-alignment (1/4" off)?
2) Are all the current OBX headers "not as good" anymore, as mentioned by Helix here?
I wish there was some more up-to-date information about these headers. I see more vendors selling the Megan headers than OBX, but that may not really mean anything.
It seems all the variables come down to:
a) head bolt alignment (Megan>OBX?)
b) header port alignment (OBX>Megan?)
c) weld quality (Megan>OBX?)
d) cat and exhaust fitment (OBX>Megan?)
e) O2 sensor fitment (OBX>Megan?)
f) flex joint quality (OBX=Megan w/solid motor mounds?)
g) ball-joint/donut gasket design (OBX=Megan w/solid motor mounts?)
Just wish the RMW header wasn't 4x the cost. The law of diminishing returns is just screaming at me on this one.
It's difficult sorting through hundreds of posts especially since there's so much conflicting/old information. I've been trying to decide between OBX and Megan headers. I want to use an OEM cat, and I'll definitely have solid motor and transmission mounts are installed.
After all the reading, I still have these questions:
1) Do the current Megan headers still have poor port-alignment (1/4" off)?
2) Are all the current OBX headers "not as good" anymore, as mentioned by Helix here?
I wish there was some more up-to-date information about these headers. I see more vendors selling the Megan headers than OBX, but that may not really mean anything.
It seems all the variables come down to:
a) head bolt alignment (Megan>OBX?)
b) header port alignment (OBX>Megan?)
c) weld quality (Megan>OBX?)
d) cat and exhaust fitment (OBX>Megan?)
e) O2 sensor fitment (OBX>Megan?)
f) flex joint quality (OBX=Megan w/solid motor mounds?)
g) ball-joint/donut gasket design (OBX=Megan w/solid motor mounts?)
Just wish the RMW header wasn't 4x the cost. The law of diminishing returns is just screaming at me on this one.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
just my 2 cents...
date/time/source:
i purchased my megan 4-1 race header through wmw around 10/13. ive put at least 2k miles through it and have had no issues.
build quality:
i did not religiously inspect the build quality, but considering the ports on the header, lined up with the stock gasket, as well as the after market gasket it came with, i assume they are lined up properly. the bolt holes all lined up too.
fitment:
heres where i ran into my first issues. to start, in my opinion, it was a pita to get this thing in place... however, i did it all myself, so it is certainly not impossible to tackle alone.
on my header, unfortunately, the pre-cat/upstream bung for the o2 sensor, was further down than the one on the stock manifold. after disconnecting the sensor, and routing it every possible way, it still would not reach. to remedy this, i contacted jan from rmw, and he was able to make me a legit extension wire from factory male/female plugs and the proper resistanced wires. other than that, i had no fitmemt issues.
supplied test pipe vs cat:
i ran it with the test pipe for the the first 3-4 weeks. combined with my custom 2.5 catback piping, this is what i think most would consider "stupid loud". so i decided to go with the high flow magnaflow cat, which, took it to a nicer tone and dampened the sound to my liking.
cel:
using the test pipe, i did throw a cel. once i installed the magnaflow cat, i reset and it has since (at least 1k miles and well over 20 hot/cold cycles) stayed off.
sidenote:
for those of you interested... after clearing a cel, 3 hot/cold cycles are required for the readiness monitors to regain the info they need. so dont think you can clear the light, and then the next time turn the car on, drive 100 miles and think youre in the clear. it requires heating up to running temp, and cooling down while off 3 times.
conclusion:
i have not returned to the dyno since installing the header, but at the very least, i am happy with the sound. ive also noticed just a bit more top end power. worth the money to me. i will re-post in the future with updates if any issues arise, or if i have none in another 5k or so.
date/time/source:
i purchased my megan 4-1 race header through wmw around 10/13. ive put at least 2k miles through it and have had no issues.
build quality:
i did not religiously inspect the build quality, but considering the ports on the header, lined up with the stock gasket, as well as the after market gasket it came with, i assume they are lined up properly. the bolt holes all lined up too.
fitment:
heres where i ran into my first issues. to start, in my opinion, it was a pita to get this thing in place... however, i did it all myself, so it is certainly not impossible to tackle alone.
on my header, unfortunately, the pre-cat/upstream bung for the o2 sensor, was further down than the one on the stock manifold. after disconnecting the sensor, and routing it every possible way, it still would not reach. to remedy this, i contacted jan from rmw, and he was able to make me a legit extension wire from factory male/female plugs and the proper resistanced wires. other than that, i had no fitmemt issues.
supplied test pipe vs cat:
i ran it with the test pipe for the the first 3-4 weeks. combined with my custom 2.5 catback piping, this is what i think most would consider "stupid loud". so i decided to go with the high flow magnaflow cat, which, took it to a nicer tone and dampened the sound to my liking.
cel:
using the test pipe, i did throw a cel. once i installed the magnaflow cat, i reset and it has since (at least 1k miles and well over 20 hot/cold cycles) stayed off.
sidenote:
for those of you interested... after clearing a cel, 3 hot/cold cycles are required for the readiness monitors to regain the info they need. so dont think you can clear the light, and then the next time turn the car on, drive 100 miles and think youre in the clear. it requires heating up to running temp, and cooling down while off 3 times.
conclusion:
i have not returned to the dyno since installing the header, but at the very least, i am happy with the sound. ive also noticed just a bit more top end power. worth the money to me. i will re-post in the future with updates if any issues arise, or if i have none in another 5k or so.
just my 2 cents...
date/time/source:
i purchased my megan 4-1 race header through wmw around 10/13. ive put at least 2k miles through it and have had no issues.
build quality:
i did not religiously inspect the build quality, but considering the ports on the header, lined up with the stock gasket, as well as the after market gasket it came with, i assume they are lined up properly. the bolt holes all lined up too.
fitment:
heres where i ran into my first issues. to start, in my opinion, it was a pita to get this thing in place... however, i did it all myself, so it is certainly not impossible to tackle alone.
on my header, unfortunately, the pre-cat/upstream bung for the o2 sensor, was further down than the one on the stock manifold. after disconnecting the sensor, and routing it every possible way, it still would not reach. to remedy this, i contacted jan from rmw, and he was able to make me a legit extension wire from factory male/female plugs and the proper resistanced wires. other than that, i had no fitmemt issues.
supplied test pipe vs cat:
i ran it with the test pipe for the the first 3-4 weeks. combined with my custom 2.5 catback piping, this is what i think most would consider "stupid loud". so i decided to go with the high flow magnaflow cat, which, took it to a nicer tone and dampened the sound to my liking.
cel:
using the test pipe, i did throw a cel. once i installed the magnaflow cat, i reset and it has since (at least 1k miles and well over 20 hot/cold cycles) stayed off.
sidenote:
for those of you interested... after clearing a cel, 3 hot/cold cycles are required for the readiness monitors to regain the info they need. so dont think you can clear the light, and then the next time turn the car on, drive 100 miles and think youre in the clear. it requires heating up to running temp, and cooling down while off 3 times.
conclusion:
i have not returned to the dyno since installing the header, but at the very least, i am happy with the sound. ive also noticed just a bit more top end power. worth the money to me. i will re-post in the future with updates if any issues arise, or if i have none in another 5k or so.
date/time/source:
i purchased my megan 4-1 race header through wmw around 10/13. ive put at least 2k miles through it and have had no issues.
build quality:
i did not religiously inspect the build quality, but considering the ports on the header, lined up with the stock gasket, as well as the after market gasket it came with, i assume they are lined up properly. the bolt holes all lined up too.
fitment:
heres where i ran into my first issues. to start, in my opinion, it was a pita to get this thing in place... however, i did it all myself, so it is certainly not impossible to tackle alone.
on my header, unfortunately, the pre-cat/upstream bung for the o2 sensor, was further down than the one on the stock manifold. after disconnecting the sensor, and routing it every possible way, it still would not reach. to remedy this, i contacted jan from rmw, and he was able to make me a legit extension wire from factory male/female plugs and the proper resistanced wires. other than that, i had no fitmemt issues.
supplied test pipe vs cat:
i ran it with the test pipe for the the first 3-4 weeks. combined with my custom 2.5 catback piping, this is what i think most would consider "stupid loud". so i decided to go with the high flow magnaflow cat, which, took it to a nicer tone and dampened the sound to my liking.
cel:
using the test pipe, i did throw a cel. once i installed the magnaflow cat, i reset and it has since (at least 1k miles and well over 20 hot/cold cycles) stayed off.
sidenote:
for those of you interested... after clearing a cel, 3 hot/cold cycles are required for the readiness monitors to regain the info they need. so dont think you can clear the light, and then the next time turn the car on, drive 100 miles and think youre in the clear. it requires heating up to running temp, and cooling down while off 3 times.
conclusion:
i have not returned to the dyno since installing the header, but at the very least, i am happy with the sound. ive also noticed just a bit more top end power. worth the money to me. i will re-post in the future with updates if any issues arise, or if i have none in another 5k or so.
I can't comment on Megan build quality, but I think OBX had a better warranty at the time. Maybe not...
Additionally, while it's a contentious topic, your main considerations should be 1) Tri-Y vs 4-1 design, and 2) "Flex" joint style. I personally don't care for accordion or woven flex sections; when they rip or crack, you now have to cut it out and weld on a new one.
Compare that to a donut style gasket, where you can simply replace the gasket, and this style actually allows the exhaust to pivot on a transverse mounted engine instead of flex. You can only flex or bend alloys so many times before they fatigue- as many have experienced with the Megan header's flex section.
When flex sections break or crack, it's almost always at the same spot: toward where the accordion or weave sections meets the rigid pipe. That should tell us something about this design.
Additionally, while it's a contentious topic, your main considerations should be 1) Tri-Y vs 4-1 design, and 2) "Flex" joint style. I personally don't care for accordion or woven flex sections; when they rip or crack, you now have to cut it out and weld on a new one.
Compare that to a donut style gasket, where you can simply replace the gasket, and this style actually allows the exhaust to pivot on a transverse mounted engine instead of flex. You can only flex or bend alloys so many times before they fatigue- as many have experienced with the Megan header's flex section.
When flex sections break or crack, it's almost always at the same spot: toward where the accordion or weave sections meets the rigid pipe. That should tell us something about this design.
I can't comment on Megan build quality, but I think OBX had a better warranty at the time. Maybe not...
Additionally, while it's a contentious topic, your main considerations should be 1) Tri-Y vs 4-1 design, and 2) "Flex" joint style. I personally don't care for accordion or woven flex sections; when they rip or crack, you now have to cut it out and weld on a new one.
Compare that to a donut style gasket, where you can simply replace the gasket, and this style actually allows the exhaust to pivot on a transverse mounted engine instead of flex. You can only flex or bend alloys so many times before they fatigue- as many have experienced with the Megan header's flex section.
When flex sections break or crack, it's almost always at the same spot: toward where the accordion or weave sections meets the rigid pipe. That should tell us something about this design.
Additionally, while it's a contentious topic, your main considerations should be 1) Tri-Y vs 4-1 design, and 2) "Flex" joint style. I personally don't care for accordion or woven flex sections; when they rip or crack, you now have to cut it out and weld on a new one.
Compare that to a donut style gasket, where you can simply replace the gasket, and this style actually allows the exhaust to pivot on a transverse mounted engine instead of flex. You can only flex or bend alloys so many times before they fatigue- as many have experienced with the Megan header's flex section.
When flex sections break or crack, it's almost always at the same spot: toward where the accordion or weave sections meets the rigid pipe. That should tell us something about this design.
When it comes to donut vs. flex, I've also heard the pros and cons of both. Either way, having a good set of motor/transmission mounts (TSW/powerflex) vastly reduces the stress on the joint, and increasing the lifespan of either joint.
At this point I think I'm leaning to Megan because
a) It's sold by some good vendors
b) Some recent owners say the port alignment is good
c) I like the option of making a "swappable" cat
The biggest downside I see right now is pre-cat O2 sensor fitment. It looks like it can be addressed by some combination of:
a) re-routing the O2 sensor wire
b) extending the O2 sensor wire
c) welding another bung on a different location
Thanks for your input!
Agreed on all points. Just know that folks have had issues with the Megan flex-pipe, as well as the resonator's insulation breaking-up. Sounds like you've done your research though. Good luck!
I think vendors offer the Megan header because it's a complete bolt-on solution, as opposed to the OBX, which may scare folks away due it's "assembly required" approach.
I think vendors offer the Megan header because it's a complete bolt-on solution, as opposed to the OBX, which may scare folks away due it's "assembly required" approach.
Agreed on all points. Just know that folks have had issues with the Megan flex-pipe, as well as the resonator's insulation breaking-up. Sounds like you've done your research though. Good luck!
I think vendors offer the Megan header because it's a complete bolt-on solution, as opposed to the OBX, which may scare folks away due it's "assembly required" approach.
I think vendors offer the Megan header because it's a complete bolt-on solution, as opposed to the OBX, which may scare folks away due it's "assembly required" approach.
Yeah that "assembly required" part was making me nervous only because I've never gone to a welding shop before, and didn't know how easy it would be to basically say, "attach this cat to this header so it's the same length and angle as the manifold you just got the cat from".
With the Megan, I can see myself with the resonator/test pipe what the length of the flanged cat would have to be.
Last edited by Frozone; Feb 14, 2014 at 11:27 AM.
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