Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Megan Header experiences

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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Megan Header experiences

Does anyone use a megan header? Do any of the bolt holes line up with the ports or is it only on mine? Is it the same as OBX? Will I regret this purchase?
-Clint
PS

I bought the four into one header with the flex joint and the resonator piece.
-----------And--------------
When I say the bolt holes don't line up, I mean that the header bolts holes are just fine, but If I were to bolt on the header, The header flange ports would all be a quarter inch to the left of the exaust ports on the head. There very well could be many other megan header owners out there with semi blocked ports and don't even know it!!! I would consider checking yours
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ClintTheMiniOwner
Does anyone use a megan header? Do any of the bolt holes line up with the ports or is it only on mine? Is it the same as OBX? Will I regret this purchase?
-Clint
I just installed the header with no problem. I am actually very hppy with it. It's a little loud but it's a race header so I expected that. As far as bolt holes not lining up I had no troubles there. All seemed A OK

Seann
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by saifa
I just installed the header with no problem. I am actually very hppy with it. It's a little loud but it's a race header so I expected that. As far as bolt holes not lining up I had no troubles there. All seemed A OK

Seann
Hey Seann, you running a cat with the header, or just the pipe they send along?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 03:47 AM
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I'm running just the supplied test pipe. I used a Barla race exhaust as it gives you a little extra "play" with the install and everything lined up great. It threw the SES code about 100km afterwards. I am going to build a spacer for the 02 sensor and try to pull it out of the exhaust a little.

The only downside is my car is stupid loud so I am trying to decide whether to leave it or add a cat / resonator.


Seann
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 05:30 AM
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price? Where to buy? Easier than using the OBX?

thanks!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 05:57 AM
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Pilo Racing or Out Motoring should have it. It runs in the $200-$300 range, and from what I heard, it's a better fit than the OBX is.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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thank you!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by saifa
I'm running just the supplied test pipe. I used a Barla race exhaust as it gives you a little extra "play" with the install and everything lined up great. It threw the SES code about 100km afterwards. I am going to build a spacer for the 02 sensor and try to pull it out of the exhaust a little.

The only downside is my car is stupid loud so I am trying to decide whether to leave it or add a cat / resonator.


Seann
Could you post a sound clip of your exhaust? That is the same setup I want... how loud is "stupid loud"? lol thanks
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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I have the Megan with test pipe (a very small resonator actually) and "stupid loud" is at least 10db louder, maybe 20db at WOT. I have a Milltek catback and the combination drones over 3000rpm to the point that I can't comfortably drive with the windows up. I tried adding sound absorbing materials in the boot, but it's the whole system that drones. The Milltek actually drones with the OEM header, it's just not very noticable, but the Megan is "all hell broking loose in my car."
cheers,
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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Try putting two straight through mufflers, both in line. One up front and one (or duals) in the rear to make up for the cat loud factor. Look at what alta did in their pictures. I would recomment 2 1/4 exhaust because 2 1/2 is just too big for a 1.6 liter. As far as the light on the dash, try pulling out the after cat sensor and put a one ohm resistor in line with the signal wire (i don't know what color that is) and zip tie or wire the o2 sensor outside of the exhaust somewhere. By the way...... I had to move the bolt holes and match up the ports on my megan header to make it work. Anyone using this header I would double check your flange to a gasket to see if your are partially blocking an exhast port. Other than that, this is a well built header.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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The signal wire is white. Unfortunately, there are 2 white wires, a grey and a black going to the sensor. You can find a wiring diagram and how-to on the o2 simulator website that indicates which white wire to cut.
cheers,
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Thankyou for the great replies! Can you post a link to that o2 simulator site? Please refer to my edited thread on the top of the page and let me know if this concerns you because I had to have my 4 into 1 megan header machined and centered with roll pins so that the exhaust ports match to my freshly ported and polished head.
-Clint
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Just Google o2simulator.com
I ground out the ports on both my Megan headers to match the OEM gasket. This gasket fits the stock head with very large ports - much larger than the actual OEM head ports, which are significantly smaller than the stock Megan ports. Of course you are talking about actual alignment of the ports. Since I can't see inside the closed header/head interface I can't be 100% sure they match, but since I reamed the header ports to be larger, I'm reasonably satisfied they are doing just fine installed.

cheers,
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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try just installing a cat your noise problems will go away!

No issues with bolts lining up.

I just installed this header 3 weeks ago and wrote a review of it. It is insanely loud without a cat, but just fine with a Random Tech cat. All you need is a shop to weld the flanges on and put an o2 bung in. $40-50 tops.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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Question...

How do you feel about this being the only header with a 2.25" collector?

Is 2.25" enough... I know its only a 1.6L, but why do all the others use a 2.5" then?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jymontoya
Question...

How do you feel about this being the only header with a 2.25" collector?

Is 2.25" enough... I know its only a 1.6L, but why do all the others use a 2.5" then?
regarding the pipe sizing, if my exhaust is 2.5" should i as well get a 2.5" header too, or 2.25" is gonna do just fine and maybe minus the noise alittle?

thanks for any answers available
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Just wanted to add...

I finally got around to adding a second 02 bung on top of the one on the test pipe so the sensor would be pulled a little out of the flow. I reset my code and drove home.

My drive is about 75km with 80% being highway. I stepped on it quite a bit on the highway and so far my CEL has NOT come back on.

If this works out then it's a much easier and cheaper solution to a simulator.


Seann
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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I put the cat back in for loudness and backpressure driveability reasons along with two 16'' magnaflow resonators and a 2 1/4'' magnaflow muffler with an outlet of 2 1/2'' pipe, to a well made "s'' shaped pipe to single 3'' tip out. All stainless... It sounds baddass! and not too loud. I just don't see a cat to be enough of a horsepower robber to not have one. I actually used the stock cat.

By the way, the piece megan put in place of the cat turns into a metallic dust and self destructs.

Is this header better than OBX?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by saifa
I finally got around to adding a second 02 bung on top of the one on the test pipe so the sensor would be pulled a little out of the flow. I reset my code and drove home.

My drive is about 75km with 80% being highway. I stepped on it quite a bit on the highway and so far my CEL has NOT come back on.

If this works out then it's a much easier and cheaper solution to a simulator.


Seann
Did you use something similar to...

http://www.ephatch.com/resource/simthing/simthing.htm

???
 
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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From: York Hunt
Originally Posted by ClintTheMiniOwner
By the way, the piece megan put in place of the cat turns into a metallic dust and self destructs.
So how long does the piece actually last and is there an alternative other than a cat to go there?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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flex joint destroyed

I have had the megan header on over year now, and recently it became louder and louder. come to find out that very short flex joint was destroyed. I know the mini motor is designed to move atleast 3", but I also had a blown motor mount. I hope this is an isolated incident. good luck
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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We just put the megan header and catback on our cooper this past sunday. We love it so far. It is definitely ridiculously loud. I don't think there is any room for the mechanical o2 fix, so i'll probably do the electronic one
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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From: York Hunt
Originally Posted by technoticmedia
i'll probably do the electronic one
which one is that?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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The electronic "fix" is called the O2simulator (just google to find the website.)
How long does the test pipe last? Well, the fiberglass in the resonator lasts about...3 minutes before it totally heats up, and fuses into solid glass shards. I have 2 pipes and drilled one out to remove these shards, and they are like glass beads, only shaped like shards. I put a new pipe in, and within one drive it started to rattle, proving the Chinese fiberglass turns solid after it reaches operating temperature.
I'd suggest putting the stock CAT back in with a welded flange from a muffler shop. No O2 problems, good backpressure and no breaking of Federal laws...a winner!

cheers,
 
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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anyone know what the best high flow cat to use with this header would be in place of the straight pipe??
 
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