Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Megan Header experiences

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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #26  
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Yes: Get the Random Technologies. It's about $180, needs flanges and a o2 sensor bung welded on, but it works.

cheers,
 
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:57 AM
  #27  
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What model Random Tech cat do you guys use, and where did you get it?
Thanks
Wes
 
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 01:37 PM
  #28  
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Does anybody know the length of the test pipe from flange face to flange face? I'm thinking of getting a Megan and welding on my stock cat, but I suspect that the test pipe section is shorter than the length of the OEM cat...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 06:24 PM
  #29  
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Baloney

Originally Posted by Stricks
Pilo Racing or Out Motoring should have it. It runs in the $200-$300 range, and from what I heard, it's a better fit than the OBX is.
The OBX fit perfectly.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 07:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by saifa
I just installed the header with no problem. I am actually very hppy with it. It's a little loud but it's a race header so I expected that. As far as bolt holes not lining up I had no troubles there. All seemed A OK

Seann
Originally Posted by ClintTheMiniOwner
Does anyone use a megan header? Do any of the bolt holes line up with the ports or is it only on mine? Is it the same as OBX? Will I regret this purchase?
-Clint
PS

I bought the four into one header with the flex joint and the resonator piece.
-----------And--------------
When I say the bolt holes don't line up, I mean that the header bolts holes are just fine, but If I were to bolt on the header, The header flange ports would all be a quarter inch to the left of the exaust ports on the head. There very well could be many other megan header owners out there with semi blocked ports and don't even know it!!! I would consider checking yours
Now that is unacceptable

And then Seann wrote " I just installed the header with no problem. I am actually very hppy with it. It's a little loud but it's a race header so I expected that. As far as bolt holes not lining up I had no troubles there. All seemed A OK"
I think you guy's are talking about two different things here
================================================== =====

Good grief, I cleaned up my OBX ports only because I'm **** so they were the exact same size as the exhaust flange gasket, they wouldn't have interfered with the head ports at all. If you read my post in the big OBX thread and got the wrong impression, sorry. The OEM metal exhaust gasket is larger than the head ports anyway. You can and should check any headers you buy with a new gasket just lay it up against the flange and register it with the flange mounting holes to see if it matches up with the ports. All the trouble you have been through with this header, roll pins, port mismatch. Are you sure or trying to convince yourself all that was easier or you just don't know what a great header and bargain the OBX is.
I see allot of misinformation floating around here about the OBX header.
Just to set the record straight there are no alignment problems with the OBX headers.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #31  
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OBX .
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #32  
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Back from the dead (not really, but I wanted to say it. )! I just read many many many posts on this header and the OBX one, as I want to get a header for christmas. From reading, I'm thinking of going with the Megan and using the test pipe (and yes I know it will be loud) because I do not want to buy a cat, unless it's too loud, then I will.

Anyway, I have a few questions that I'm still confused on.

1. When I replace my stock header with this, it will just be bolt on, correct? No welding, grinding, etc?

2. Since I won't be running a cat, and just the test pipe, will I HAVE to get the 02 simulator to not throw CEL codes (in Ohio we have no tests or anything, so I'm not worried about that, I just don't want to see the light on all of the time)?

3. I'm confused as to what this means "All you need is a shop to weld the flanges on and put an o2 bung in. $40-50 tops." - quote from this thread. Buying this header, I thought I wouldn't have to weld anything, and I thought the Megan came with a bung on it, so I wouldn't have to weld anything. Or, is it that the 02 sensor will need to be welded to the actual bung itself?

Sorry, I'm totally new to headers...I'm looking for a few more HP, but overall just better exhaust sound. I'm running a completly stock MCS exhaust system.

THANKS!
-Cody
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #33  
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You will need to have the header extended to connect to the rest of the exhaust. And you have to have another bung added because there are two O2 sensors.

Also I have yet to see anyone having any luck with the O2 simulators. I have never got one to work.

Also make sure you add some type of flext joint to allow the header to move with the engine. My Megan header cracked around every primary because of the exhaust not moving and flimsy motor mounts.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #34  
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My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.

cheers,
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.

cheers,
I did a little research. It seems that megan has redesigned their manifold. My apologizes for the irrelavant info...

Also how many miles have you put on the car since you installed the sim?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:14 PM
  #36  
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i've been running without a cat for a few days and i haven't thrown a code yet
it is loud too loud for me so i'm putting a cat on for noise reduction
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:15 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by nypepper
i've been running without a cat for a few days and i haven't thrown a code yet
it is loud too loud for me so i'm putting a cat on for noise reduction
Takes a few miles and key cycles. You will throw a code.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 04:13 AM
  #38  
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Thanks guys. If I ordered it from Outmotoring, would I be getting the newer version? I'm just curious, because I'm new to exhausts, and I wouldn't have any extra money to be throwing into getting stuff welded, twisted, grinded, etc. I see the flex pipe, so I'm guessing this is the new version.

Seems like it's pretty much plug and play.


Thanks!
-Cody
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:21 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.

cheers,
What Cat did you chose and where did you order it please. This is probabaly going to be my Christmas Bonus purchase if I get one. With Cat on, how much louder than stock? I have Miltek CB. Right now my AGS3 is the loudest thing.
Thanks
Wes
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:36 AM
  #40  
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Spillman: I have about 5000 miles since installing the o2 simulator. It has never thrown a light.
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.

cheers,
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:36 AM
  #41  
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These two threads will answer all your questions...

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=82359&page=4

http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=876.0

Sound/video clip...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1708734607224827110&hl=en
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #42  
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BTW, the sound video clip (scary wet night driving!- woohoo) is very similar to how mine sounds. With the Milltek catback it's a little edgier, maybe slightly more higher pitched, but generally I felt like I was listening to my car when I watched the video...except for the scary wet night driving, which I hate!)
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:47 AM
  #43  
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I was thinking about the OBX Header but maybe this is better?

EDIT:
My car already sounds ALOT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNkK-zLYOsw
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:49 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
BTW, the sound video clip (scary wet night driving!- woohoo) is very similar to how mine sounds. With the Milltek catback it's a little edgier, maybe slightly more higher pitched, but generally I felt like I was listening to my car when I watched the video...except for the scary wet night driving, which I hate!)
When I did a driveby for Blake, I was astonished at how much mellower it was with the Megan than stock headers It also sounded quieter than when it was mounted to my Mini...in other words, when I had it, it was FRICKN LOUD but good But on his Mini, it sounded louder but and actually improved the M7 cat-back's tone...Happy ending for both of us...
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #45  
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Are the Megan and stock exhaust two different sizes? Isn't the Megan 2.5" and the stock exhaust pipe 2.25"? If so, how would I get that to match up and work?

-Cody
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 12:01 PM
  #46  
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The flanges are pretty much generic, and work quite well with 2.25" or 2.5" pipes. The Megan is actually less than 2.5" at the cat end. I got the Muffler guy to make up sections from 2.5" tube. The Milltek is 2.5". They all use the same size flange, except that the Megan flange is quite thick.
The 1/8" radius difference is not worth worrying about, IMO.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 12:38 PM
  #47  
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Ok, so when I get the header everything will just be plug and play. I like that! I got to thinking about the diameters and was wondering if I would have to pay someone to weld something from the header to the exhaust to go from 2.5 to 2.25.

-Cody
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #48  
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Well...not exactly plug and play! But real close...
There's the matter of the pre-cat o2 sensor location. Not the best, and you will have to do some surgery on the heat shield over the shifter cables to avoid destroying the wires to the sensor. When you're there, you'll see what I mean.
The "test pipe" that comes with the Megan has cheapo fiberglass for insulation. It melts and rattles, eventually. It will last about 1-2 weeks before it really annoys you, I'd say. So get the cat welded up sooner rather than later.
good luck!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #49  
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More questions:

1. If I do get a cat, which one? Since I don't have a lot of money, I like loud, but not "stupid loud." I LOVE the Magnaflow and M7 Powertone exhaust as a referrence.
2. How will I go from a 2.5" header to a 2.25" exhaust? Can I just have a shop weld a peice of reduction pipe on?
3. How annoying is the rattle when the fiberglass melts?
4. Would it be better/cost less just to buy a better test pipe, like the Random Tech one?

Thanks!
-Cody
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #50  
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i bought a magnaflow cat for $60
paid $60 to weld it in
so total is $320 not a bad deal
 
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