Drivetrain Megan Header experiences
Does anybody know the length of the test pipe from flange face to flange face? I'm thinking of getting a Megan and welding on my stock cat, but I suspect that the test pipe section is shorter than the length of the OEM cat...
Baloney
Does anyone use a megan header? Do any of the bolt holes line up with the ports or is it only on mine? Is it the same as OBX? Will I regret this purchase?
-Clint
PS
I bought the four into one header with the flex joint and the resonator piece.
-----------And--------------
When I say the bolt holes don't line up, I mean that the header bolts holes are just fine, but If I were to bolt on the header, The header flange ports would all be a quarter inch to the left of the exaust ports on the head. There very well could be many other megan header owners out there with semi blocked ports and don't even know it!!! I would consider checking yours
-Clint
PS
I bought the four into one header with the flex joint and the resonator piece.
-----------And--------------
When I say the bolt holes don't line up, I mean that the header bolts holes are just fine, but If I were to bolt on the header, The header flange ports would all be a quarter inch to the left of the exaust ports on the head. There very well could be many other megan header owners out there with semi blocked ports and don't even know it!!! I would consider checking yours

And then Seann wrote " I just installed the header with no problem. I am actually very hppy with it. It's a little loud but it's a race header so I expected that. As far as bolt holes not lining up I had no troubles there. All seemed A OK"
I think you guy's are talking about two different things here
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Good grief, I cleaned up my OBX ports only because I'm **** so they were the exact same size as the exhaust flange gasket, they wouldn't have interfered with the head ports at all. If you read my post in the big OBX thread and got the wrong impression, sorry. The OEM metal exhaust gasket is larger than the head ports anyway. You can and should check any headers you buy with a new gasket just lay it up against the flange and register it with the flange mounting holes to see if it matches up with the ports. All the trouble you have been through with this header, roll pins, port mismatch. Are you sure or trying to convince yourself all that was easier or you just don't know what a great header and bargain the OBX is.
I see allot of misinformation floating around here about the OBX header.
Just to set the record straight there are no alignment problems with the OBX headers.
Back from the dead (not really, but I wanted to say it.
)! I just read many many many posts on this header and the OBX one, as I want to get a header for christmas. From reading, I'm thinking of going with the Megan and using the test pipe (and yes I know it will be loud) because I do not want to buy a cat, unless it's too loud, then I will.
Anyway, I have a few questions that I'm still confused on.
1. When I replace my stock header with this, it will just be bolt on, correct? No welding, grinding, etc?
2. Since I won't be running a cat, and just the test pipe, will I HAVE to get the 02 simulator to not throw CEL codes (in Ohio we have no tests or anything, so I'm not worried about that, I just don't want to see the light on all of the time)?
3. I'm confused as to what this means "All you need is a shop to weld the flanges on and put an o2 bung in. $40-50 tops." - quote from this thread. Buying this header, I thought I wouldn't have to weld anything, and I thought the Megan came with a bung on it, so I wouldn't have to weld anything. Or, is it that the 02 sensor will need to be welded to the actual bung itself?
Sorry, I'm totally new to headers...I'm looking for a few more HP, but overall just better exhaust sound. I'm running a completly stock MCS exhaust system.
THANKS!
-Cody
)! I just read many many many posts on this header and the OBX one, as I want to get a header for christmas. From reading, I'm thinking of going with the Megan and using the test pipe (and yes I know it will be loud) because I do not want to buy a cat, unless it's too loud, then I will. Anyway, I have a few questions that I'm still confused on.
1. When I replace my stock header with this, it will just be bolt on, correct? No welding, grinding, etc?
2. Since I won't be running a cat, and just the test pipe, will I HAVE to get the 02 simulator to not throw CEL codes (in Ohio we have no tests or anything, so I'm not worried about that, I just don't want to see the light on all of the time)?
3. I'm confused as to what this means "All you need is a shop to weld the flanges on and put an o2 bung in. $40-50 tops." - quote from this thread. Buying this header, I thought I wouldn't have to weld anything, and I thought the Megan came with a bung on it, so I wouldn't have to weld anything. Or, is it that the 02 sensor will need to be welded to the actual bung itself?
Sorry, I'm totally new to headers...I'm looking for a few more HP, but overall just better exhaust sound. I'm running a completly stock MCS exhaust system.
THANKS!

-Cody
You will need to have the header extended to connect to the rest of the exhaust. And you have to have another bung added because there are two O2 sensors.
Also I have yet to see anyone having any luck with the O2 simulators. I have never got one to work.
Also make sure you add some type of flext joint to allow the header to move with the engine. My Megan header cracked around every primary because of the exhaust not moving and flimsy motor mounts.
Also I have yet to see anyone having any luck with the O2 simulators. I have never got one to work.
Also make sure you add some type of flext joint to allow the header to move with the engine. My Megan header cracked around every primary because of the exhaust not moving and flimsy motor mounts.
My little dose of LITHIUM
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My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
Also how many miles have you put on the car since you installed the sim?
Takes a few miles and key cycles. You will throw a code.
Thanks guys. If I ordered it from Outmotoring, would I be getting the newer version? I'm just curious, because I'm new to exhausts, and I wouldn't have any extra money to be throwing into getting stuff welded, twisted, grinded, etc. I see the flex pipe, so I'm guessing this is the new version.
Seems like it's pretty much plug and play.

Thanks!
-Cody
Seems like it's pretty much plug and play.

Thanks!
-Cody
My experience is quite different to that of Spillman. I have had a Megan header for about 4 months, over 5000 miles, no problems.
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
It comes with a pre-cat o2 bung and a post-cat/test pipe o2 bung.
It comes with a flex joint.
No welding is needed if you use the test pipe, but an o2 simulator is needed or you will throw lights. I have the standard simulator chip and it has never failed.
I got 2 pipes welded up, one with a cat and another for race day. Cost $200 for everything.
In the end, I spent under $500 and got a header, wrap, new gaskets, 3 pipes a simulator and a whole heck of a lot of really loud exhaust noise. I love it.
cheers,
Thanks
Wes
My little dose of LITHIUM
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Spillman: I have about 5000 miles since installing the o2 simulator. It has never thrown a light.
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.
cheers,
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.
cheers,
These two threads will answer all your questions...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=82359&page=4
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=876.0
Sound/video clip...
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1708734607224827110&hl=en
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=876.0
Sound/video clip...
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1708734607224827110&hl=en
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
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Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
BTW, the sound video clip (scary wet night driving!- woohoo) is very similar to how mine sounds. With the Milltek catback it's a little edgier, maybe slightly more higher pitched, but generally I felt like I was listening to my car when I watched the video...except for the scary wet night driving, which I hate!)
I was thinking about the OBX Header but maybe this is better?
EDIT:
My car already sounds ALOT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNkK-zLYOsw
EDIT:
My car already sounds ALOT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNkK-zLYOsw
BTW, the sound video clip (scary wet night driving!- woohoo) is very similar to how mine sounds. With the Milltek catback it's a little edgier, maybe slightly more higher pitched, but generally I felt like I was listening to my car when I watched the video...except for the scary wet night driving, which I hate!)
It also sounded quieter than when it was mounted to my Mini...in other words, when I had it, it was FRICKN LOUD but good
But on his Mini, it sounded louder but and actually improved the M7 cat-back's tone...Happy ending for both of us...
My little dose of LITHIUM
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
The flanges are pretty much generic, and work quite well with 2.25" or 2.5" pipes. The Megan is actually less than 2.5" at the cat end. I got the Muffler guy to make up sections from 2.5" tube. The Milltek is 2.5". They all use the same size flange, except that the Megan flange is quite thick.
The 1/8" radius difference is not worth worrying about, IMO.
The 1/8" radius difference is not worth worrying about, IMO.
Ok, so when I get the header everything will just be plug and play. I like that! I got to thinking about the diameters and was wondering if I would have to pay someone to weld something from the header to the exhaust to go from 2.5 to 2.25.
-Cody
-Cody
My little dose of LITHIUM
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Well...not exactly plug and play! But real close...
There's the matter of the pre-cat o2 sensor location. Not the best, and you will have to do some surgery on the heat shield over the shifter cables to avoid destroying the wires to the sensor. When you're there, you'll see what I mean.
The "test pipe" that comes with the Megan has cheapo fiberglass for insulation. It melts and rattles, eventually. It will last about 1-2 weeks before it really annoys you, I'd say. So get the cat welded up sooner rather than later.
good luck!
There's the matter of the pre-cat o2 sensor location. Not the best, and you will have to do some surgery on the heat shield over the shifter cables to avoid destroying the wires to the sensor. When you're there, you'll see what I mean.
The "test pipe" that comes with the Megan has cheapo fiberglass for insulation. It melts and rattles, eventually. It will last about 1-2 weeks before it really annoys you, I'd say. So get the cat welded up sooner rather than later.
good luck!
More questions:
1. If I do get a cat, which one? Since I don't have a lot of money, I like loud, but not "stupid loud." I LOVE the Magnaflow and M7 Powertone exhaust as a referrence.
2. How will I go from a 2.5" header to a 2.25" exhaust? Can I just have a shop weld a peice of reduction pipe on?
3. How annoying is the rattle when the fiberglass melts?
4. Would it be better/cost less just to buy a better test pipe, like the Random Tech one?
Thanks!
-Cody
1. If I do get a cat, which one? Since I don't have a lot of money, I like loud, but not "stupid loud." I LOVE the Magnaflow and M7 Powertone exhaust as a referrence.
2. How will I go from a 2.5" header to a 2.25" exhaust? Can I just have a shop weld a peice of reduction pipe on?
3. How annoying is the rattle when the fiberglass melts?
4. Would it be better/cost less just to buy a better test pipe, like the Random Tech one?
Thanks!
-Cody





