Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Megan Header experiences

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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #51  
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Where did you buy the magnaflow cat from? Is it loud? Like I said, I don't want a stupid loud exhaust, but I sure as hell don't want a quiet exhaust!

-Cody
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by polizei
Where did you buy the magnaflow cat from? Is it loud? Like I said, I don't want a stupid loud exhaust, but I sure as hell don't want a quiet exhaust!

-Cody
See post #40. The link is for a Magnaflow that fits for $55.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 08:46 AM
  #53  
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Ah thanks! I skipped right over it.

-Cody
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 10:18 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
Spillman: I have about 5000 miles since installing the o2 simulator. It has never thrown a light.
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.

cheers,
Are you saying that you are using the O2 simulator with a cat and not throwing codes? This is not relevant. I am asking how many miles with your "race" pipe installed (no cat). This is when the car should throw codes. It takes a good bit of miles and several key cycles to throw a code.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 11:27 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by polizei
Where did you buy the magnaflow cat from? Is it loud? Like I said, I don't want a stupid loud exhaust, but I sure as hell don't want a quiet exhaust!

-Cody
it's still loud just a little more civilized
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 02:26 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by spillman
Are you saying that you are using the O2 simulator with a cat and not throwing codes? This is not relevant. I am asking how many miles with your "race" pipe installed (no cat). This is when the car should throw codes. It takes a good bit of miles and several key cycles to throw a code.
Before selling my Megan header, I put on several hundred miles and at least 20 key cycles and the O2sim did it's job
 
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #57  
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My Megan is coming apart at the flex joint...less than 10K miles and 6 months...
 
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 06:30 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by TampaMCS
My Megan is coming apart at the flex joint...less than 10K miles and 6 months...
Do you have your motor damped?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #59  
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From: York Hunt
so i put my megan header on today and everything went smooth except one of the bolts wouldnt line up at all...so for now its off...also the O2 sensors wouldnt reach the bungs so i just tucked em up under the car and left the caps on the header...will this cause any problems or will the check engine light just come on?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 09:33 PM
  #60  
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The one up by the motor must be connected!!!! do not drive your car without that connected!!!!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 04:42 AM
  #61  
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And both must be connected (or a simulator must be used with the after-cat sensor, but it's easier and legal to use a cat and the second sensor in place). There are many threads on this--a search will reveal them.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:51 AM
  #62  
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From: York Hunt
Originally Posted by TampaMCS
The one up by the motor must be connected!!!! do not drive your car without that connected!!!!
I haven't yet but I'm curoius why not...what would happen? And what about the one bolt missing? Will that cause any problems?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:59 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by cartar452
I haven't yet but I'm curoius why not...what would happen? And what about the one bolt missing? Will that cause any problems?
Because it regulates your AF by sampling the exhaust...

I hate to tell you but take the header off and remount...try starting bolts from center loosely untill all are started...if you still can't get them all in, then you'll need to determine which one is the problem and grind out the bolt flange hole...all bolts MUST be torqued in properly or you'll experience exhaust leak...
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:18 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cartar452
so i put my megan header on today and everything went smooth except one of the bolts wouldnt line up at all...so for now its off...also the O2 sensors wouldnt reach the bungs so i just tucked em up under the car and left the caps on the header...will this cause any problems or will the check engine light just come on?
And you consider this a "everything went smooth" installation .

On the bolt - you run the risk of warpping and exhaust leak.

On the O2 - you are denying your car's ecu of information - expect an engine light. Since it didn't reach - should we assume that bung is open?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:27 AM
  #65  
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The thing is, many of us have installed Megan headers and never experienced the "short sensor wire" problem. I wonder why yours is so short (drum roll)? Try removing the sensor wire from all the clips that hold it to the firewall, etc. mount it then reinstall the clips.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:39 AM
  #66  
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Could he have mounted the fake cat backwards like one of the EBAY pictures depicts?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #67  
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From: York Hunt
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
The thing is, many of us have installed Megan headers and never experienced the "short sensor wire" problem. I wonder why yours is so short (drum roll)? Try removing the sensor wire from all the clips that hold it to the firewall, etc. mount it then reinstall the clips.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
Thanks for the info...I will try that later this evening. I'll prolly disconnect everything again to get the bolts to all lign up then try to attach the o2 sensor. If the bolts don't lign up at all should i remove the header completely and try to bore the hole out? Thanks
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #68  
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Converters

If you guys are still looking for converter solutions I have a good source(especially in Atlanta) they are 200 cell spun units and can be had with O2 bungs for about 225.00
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #69  
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BTW...my O2 Sim is still working like a charm. Even though I have a cat, the sensor has been bypassed by the sim and still no CEL
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #70  
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Alright so tomorrow I will take the header back off and install both o2 sensors and try to get the last bolt in; I think I can I just ran out of time yesterday. Should any lock-tite be used with these bolts and if so what kind? Also, have any of you put the top heat shield back on by adjusting it or did you just take it off? And does anyone have a picture of how the "test pipe" mounts from the header to the cat-back? Thanks
 
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #71  
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From: York Hunt
Anyone?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 06:33 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by cartar452
Alright so tomorrow I will take the header back off and install both o2 sensors and try to get the last bolt in; I think I can I just ran out of time yesterday. Should any lock-tite be used with these bolts and if so what kind? Also, have any of you put the top heat shield back on by adjusting it or did you just take it off? And does anyone have a picture of how the "test pipe" mounts from the header to the cat-back? Thanks
Missed the questions, sorry:
don't use locktite. Maybe some anti-seize. I cut the top shield sides to fit over the Megan and reinstalled as there's a lot of heat rising from the header at idle/stop. The test pipe (race only!) mounts with the o2 bung furthest from the engine.
cheers,
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 07:55 AM
  #73  
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From: York Hunt
Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
Missed the questions, sorry:
don't use locktite. Maybe some anti-seize. I cut the top shield sides to fit over the Megan and reinstalled as there's a lot of heat rising from the header at idle/stop. The test pipe (race only!) mounts with the o2 bung furthest from the engine.
cheers,
Thanks for the help. But with the test pipe, does the bung go on the top or bottom. It makes sense that it would go on the bottom but when mounted that way it doesnt line up with the exhaust at all. Am I doing something wrong here??
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:24 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by TampaMCS
My Megan is coming apart at the flex joint...less than 10K miles and 6 months...
From my readings the flex joint on the Megan is one of the great attracting features over the OBX header.

When you say coming apart is it leaking? what steps are you taking?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 10:19 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by cartar452
Thanks for the help. But with the test pipe, does the bung go on the top or bottom. It makes sense that it would go on the bottom but when mounted that way it doesnt line up with the exhaust at all. Am I doing something wrong here??
Mmm...odd for sure. Yes, the bung goes toward the botton so you can screw the sensor in. I don't think you can put the sensor in the other way as there is no space in the tunnel. Given that, I dont' know why your pipes aren't lining up...Mine fitted perfectly, and pushed the Milltek back about 1/2" which was well within tolerances.
What catback are you using? Still, you took the stock header off, and the Megan should be pretty close to that. The flex joint changes shape over time, but mine does not leak after 6k miles (touch wood!)
 
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