Drivetrain Megan Header experiences
My little dose of LITHIUM
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
See post #40. The link is for a Magnaflow that fits for $55.
Spillman: I have about 5000 miles since installing the o2 simulator. It has never thrown a light.
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.
cheers,
Wesport: It is quite quiet with the Magnaflow cat (https://2527312909.monstercommercesites.com/index.asp -- comes with a bung and is about 1" longer than the pipe it ships with--which gives your Muffler guy some room to cut it to the right angles for a proper fit with flanges. It is pretty loud with the race pipe, much quieter with the cat. Still louder than stock. I don't have db measurements, sorry. I too have a Milltek catback.
I like the sound, quite low, with an angry bark at WOT. Never sounds ricey. I have a few sympathetic vibrations and rattles in the car, but I'm running an engine damper and the Milltek hits the shielding every now and then.
cheers,
it's still loud just a little more civilized
Are you saying that you are using the O2 simulator with a cat and not throwing codes? This is not relevant. I am asking how many miles with your "race" pipe installed (no cat). This is when the car should throw codes. It takes a good bit of miles and several key cycles to throw a code.
so i put my megan header on today and everything went smooth except one of the bolts wouldnt line up at all...so for now its off...also the O2 sensors wouldnt reach the bungs so i just tucked em up under the car and left the caps on the header...will this cause any problems or will the check engine light just come on?
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
And both must be connected (or a simulator must be used with the after-cat sensor, but it's easier and legal to use a cat and the second sensor in place). There are many threads on this--a search will reveal them.
I haven't yet but I'm curoius why not...what would happen? And what about the one bolt missing? Will that cause any problems?

I hate to tell you but take the header off and remount...try starting bolts from center loosely untill all are started...if you still can't get them all in, then you'll need to determine which one is the problem and grind out the bolt flange hole...all bolts MUST be torqued in properly or you'll experience exhaust leak...
so i put my megan header on today and everything went smooth except one of the bolts wouldnt line up at all...so for now its off...also the O2 sensors wouldnt reach the bungs so i just tucked em up under the car and left the caps on the header...will this cause any problems or will the check engine light just come on?
.On the bolt - you run the risk of warpping and exhaust leak.
On the O2 - you are denying your car's ecu of information - expect an engine light. Since it didn't reach - should we assume that bung is open?
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
The thing is, many of us have installed Megan headers and never experienced the "short sensor wire" problem. I wonder why yours is so short (drum roll)? Try removing the sensor wire from all the clips that hold it to the firewall, etc. mount it then reinstall the clips.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
The thing is, many of us have installed Megan headers and never experienced the "short sensor wire" problem. I wonder why yours is so short (drum roll)? Try removing the sensor wire from all the clips that hold it to the firewall, etc. mount it then reinstall the clips.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
The first sensor is very important, the second one will throw lights if not installed after a cat, also.
Alright so tomorrow I will take the header back off and install both o2 sensors and try to get the last bolt in; I think I can I just ran out of time yesterday. Should any lock-tite be used with these bolts and if so what kind? Also, have any of you put the top heat shield back on by adjusting it or did you just take it off? And does anyone have a picture of how the "test pipe" mounts from the header to the cat-back? Thanks
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Alright so tomorrow I will take the header back off and install both o2 sensors and try to get the last bolt in; I think I can I just ran out of time yesterday. Should any lock-tite be used with these bolts and if so what kind? Also, have any of you put the top heat shield back on by adjusting it or did you just take it off? And does anyone have a picture of how the "test pipe" mounts from the header to the cat-back? Thanks
don't use locktite. Maybe some anti-seize. I cut the top shield sides to fit over the Megan and reinstalled as there's a lot of heat rising from the header at idle/stop. The test pipe (race only!) mounts with the o2 bung furthest from the engine.
cheers,
Missed the questions, sorry:
don't use locktite. Maybe some anti-seize. I cut the top shield sides to fit over the Megan and reinstalled as there's a lot of heat rising from the header at idle/stop. The test pipe (race only!) mounts with the o2 bung furthest from the engine.
cheers,
don't use locktite. Maybe some anti-seize. I cut the top shield sides to fit over the Megan and reinstalled as there's a lot of heat rising from the header at idle/stop. The test pipe (race only!) mounts with the o2 bung furthest from the engine.
cheers,
When you say coming apart is it leaking? what steps are you taking?
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
What catback are you using? Still, you took the stock header off, and the Megan should be pretty close to that. The flex joint changes shape over time, but mine does not leak after 6k miles (touch wood!)





