I just picked up a 2004 R53 with 36,500 km on in. Flew to Toronto, put it through an intensive PPI at the dealer and drove it home to Montreal. I bought it from a collection, the previous owner passed away so I have little
information on the upgrades or service history. It was never winter driven and stored in an incredible garage.

The PPi didn’t tell me much, other than the fact there was a small oil leak (no surprise) and maybe some light corrosion on the tail light connector. Quite odd but quickly dismissed from another technician. Tires are ancient (2005) so the 5hr drive was a bit nerve wracking.

The car has an aero bumper added (I passed on the standard one), ralley lights, euro
clear lights all around, Whalen shift ****, Alta intake, Milltek exhaust, m7 catch can, and some plug in power module. I didn’t notice but there are gold struts, so I’m guessing some Konis? Craziest thing is there is actually a monitor in the car in place of the cup holder that is wired to a Mac computer in the glove box …with a wireless keyboard…no clue how to operate it or what it’s for. I can’t even power it on but I’ll play with the maze of wires and see if I can fire it up before deciding if I should take it out. No clue if it has a reduction pulley but jt must.




It came with 2 sets of wheels, both mint (sadly s-lites), car cover, removed parts, tool box of goodies, pump and a Bentley manual.

So far I’m stoked. I’ll need to do some preventative maintenance and get new tires. I missed the R53 platform, my SQ5 won’t be getting much love anymore.

Im looking and going back to oem for wheels
once I need to get new tires. I found R13 web spokes that need a new coat of paint, mint R105 double spokes or R113 cross spokes that also need a repaint…not sure if I want to go 18 but the bright turned double spokes would look great…

Id also love to find some aero side skirts…the hunt is on.

 

Sounds like you found a unicorn! Congrats and happy motoring!👍
Those gold or yellow shocks are likely KONI FSDs. I have them on my R53, and love 'em.

 

Thanks Veggivet. Took me about 5 mths to negotiate to get it. I gave it a full scrub down and it looks mint.

I just noticed today that is also has a Hotchkis rear sway bar. I really didn’t get a chance to take all the upgrades in seeing as it was at the dealer for the inspection and I wasn’t able to get under the car when it was on the lift. Very happy to have discovered that. It’s hard to tell since the Hsport bar is black but it’s on the middle setting.

For the Koni’s, I can’t see any branding on the shock. I imagine if the wheel comes off it will be more visible. Are yours height adjustable?

I plan on selling off the Bortex Enkeis. I found a set of R98 web spokes for $250 (CAD) that just need the lip repolished. The 18” made me nervous in terms of ride quality, and I always loved those 2 pc wheels. This go around I’ll keep the aesthetics OEM, but didn’t want to throw the S-lites on.

Next is a set of strut defenders I am getting for free. I may upgrade to an m7 strut bar in time but free was too good of a price to pass up. I also really need a grom unit, or to figure out how to get this computer on. I need some music.

 

No, my Konis are not height adjustable. There's a set of aero side skirts in the Marketplace that were just listed. You should jump on them, because they don't come up very often.

 

I saw those come up. Funny but a couple weeks prior to closing on my car, there was one local to me that was listed for $2000 (for the whole car…) with aero skirts on it…painted in the correct color and he wouldn’t part with just the skirts.

At $750 USD, shipped and dutied (and painted) I should have bought the other car for just the skirts.

 

looks like a good one, congrats!

 

Thanks so much! I’m really happy with it so far. I want to keep it for a long time so I’ll need to get the typical issues sorted or preventative measures in place….like inspecting behind the tail lights. I’m scared for that one.

 

Don't forget about the rust issue underneath the weatherstripping along the door sills. There's a sticky on it.

 

It was the first thing I checked for. It lived in a temperature controlled garage, never saw winter and STILL had 3 small spots of rust. I plan on grinding it down. Maybe some POR and something on top. I was wondering if PPF over a treated surface would keep the water off (same inside the light cavity). I don’t mind an oil leak I can fix, but rust is the worst.

 

After visiting my local dealer…it looks like my PPI from Mini Vaughan West wasn’t worth the paper it was written on. Bunch of jokers. I failed my provincial inspection because of the clear taillights and clear corners. So I’ve changed the lights back to the NA oems (for now), and despite trying to stick reflectors to the corner which looked ridiculous, one of the corner lenses was cracked so they are insisting I needed to change it. So parts ordered, corners going back to orange and red (for now)…

The cabin filter looked like a super dirty vacuum. Coolant was brown, brake fluid was mud, and no word on the oil but all changed. Car runs like new….except the battery is virtually dead and I have one leaking and one cracking control arm bushing. So I have another visit scheduled to replace the battery and spark plugs (one colder than stock because I noticed there is an Alta pulley), putting on some new tires, and that should cover most of it.

Im trying to read about control bushings. Seems like it might be more cost effective to replace the bracket. The roads are trash so I’m very hesitant to go to powerflex. I’ve also ordered strut defenders and a Bluetooth module so I can hook the stereo back up.

So far not an overwhelming project considering it will be mint when I’m done and I plan on hanging on to it for a long time. I love being behind the wheel of one again. Very curious what the Unichip feels like, but a little nervous to pick the wrong switch

 

The car will definitely appreciate fresh fluids all around. I have a Unichip, but I can't tell you what it's like with the switch off😁
Don't write off Powerflex bushings just because your roads are crap. I just replaced all of mine and the car was totally transformed. Just go with the street bushings and not the track (black) ones.
If you take a pic or two of your shocks, I can compare to what I have to see if they are Konis or not. With the new tires, plugs, and battery, you'll have a great ride!

 

What are the 2 switches on the Unichip?? Are they supposed to clip to something or just hang around?


Are these the bushing you are recommending?

There was a Koni installation instructions in the Bentley manual so that’s my guess. The struts are gold but it’s hard to see much through the wheels.

 

My Unichip doesn't have those switches, and the unit looks different. In any case, I wouldn't leave them unsecured like that under the bonnet. It looks like they are both in the on position. You could turn them both off to feel the difference in the car.

Yes, those are the bushings I went with. I bought the entire set, and I got them from Way Motorworks, but you can find them all over the place.

Gold shocks with a Koni install sheet is enough evidence for me to say you have Koni FSD shocks. Mine are still going strong after 10+ years.

 

Amazing info thanks!

When you say compete set, is there something to buy more than those bracket and bushing? Do you find yours make noise or are overly jarring? I’m riding on 215/17” tires (not runflats). It’s pretty bumpy, maybe since my current bushings are done. I have a lowered sq5 and it’s less jarring than the MINI .

The ‘O’ is for sure off, the ‘I’ would be on. I have moved the switches to a location where they are better secured but I presume I could find something more refined. I guess I need to try one at a time . One seems to say map AB, I believe the yellow line. The other must be a custom map for the upgrades on the car (or an immediate CEL)

 

Zero NVH (noise, vibration, harshness), just very precise turn in response and a very smooth ride. I'm on 225/45/17 ultra performance summer tires or my track tires (either Nitto NT01, or Toyo Proxies R888)
Don't stress too much over the switches. No matter what position you try, you will not blow up the car!
For the bushings, check out www.waymotorworks.com and punch in Powerflex Handling Pack R53 into the search bar. The set runs around $350 US.

 

+1 on Powerflex bushings - installed in 2011 - an excellent upgrade

 

Sounds great for the powerflex. I’m in, I read great things. I wish Way would sell to canada but you can’t even access his site from this side of the border. He has some product on eBay but it’s really not competitive. I can get them for a little more than the cost from ECS. My Canadian seller is at $339, so about $390 after tax (~$280 usd). I’ll find out what the cost is to install but I think I’ll buy the bullet and do it this season rather than next.

 

PFF5-101 is the part - check that - FCPEuro has for $93.30 usd.

 

I was actually looking at the PFF5K-101 with the brackets attached. From what I read it’s very hard to take the old broken bushings out so I’d save on labor if I provided this assembly which is much more straightforward to install. Makes sense. I’ll find out tomorrow if they can handle just the bushings.

Thanks!

 

Congrats looks like a nice car.

First thing you do is remove that Unichip. They always lose power and the record on the dyno was 17hp gain by removing it. The ECU learns over it and it will actually cause you to lose power, a real tune will be the answer later when you want more.

Yes the Powerflex are by far the best bushings you can get and a must have for any R53, since you are in CN you can order from us here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235132880399

 

Thanks Way! I will check it out. I’m at the shop and will make sure those are the bushings I need.

So far the Unichip is powered off. Crazy that you’d lose any horsepower by adding a piggyback. I’ve never heard of that. They are a reputable brand, or so I thought. How is Dinan (and others) able to develop a piggyback that functions as intended but Unichip’s gets overwritten by the ECU? I haven’t even tried to power it on yet.

The car has an Alta pulley (not sure if it’s 15 or 17%), Alta intake and Milltek catback. The piggyback seemed like a nice to have extra 17-33hp (10ft-lb-32ft-lb) gain. I’ve been driving like a granny until the car finishes service so it hasn’t seen over 3000 rpm.

 

Hi Way,

here is what Unichip has to say:

’the A/B switch controls the maps—A is the base running map, while B is the maximum performance map.
The other switch is for the CEL reset, since the ECU tends to relearn over time.
Flipping this switch cuts power to the ECU, preventing it from retaining its memory.’

I guess the customer who ran it on the dyno with a loss of HP needed to do an ECU reset? Seems weird but apparently they acknowledged it.

 

When my car was on the lift installing the orange and red corner reflectors (I had to pass my mechanical), I noticed the car also had Milltek headers. Pleasantly surprised with that discovery. I’m still on the fence about reinstalling the clear taillights, although I quote liked them.

I also decided to order the powerflex bushings with brackets. Might as well go for that upgrade (I’ll call it preventative maintenance), and I threw in some oem carpeted mats…I’ll get the bushings on when I change out my tires next week, curious how that will feel. The tires are from 2005!! The s-lites jt came with have new tires from 2003. Wild…

I always liked the R98 wheels so I think I’m going to split them and get the faces powder coated body colored, I’ll just need some 8mm spacers.The enkei’s aren’t really the look I was going for, plus web spokes are a pain to keep clean. I’ll hang onto them in case I change my mind. I have superturismos on my sq5 and they take longer to clean than the car…not something I wanted to repeat.

My ebrake boot got a small hole worn into it from the aftermarket arm rest so I’ll be ditching that and I ordered a replacement one from a Nam member, with a trunk mat.

The Bluetooth module comes in today so I’m excited to pull the radio out which has been disconnected since I removed the Mac computer. No issues listening to the intake and exhaust but I need something to drown out the kids at times

Once I was in the rabbit hole, I found a set of aero side skirts for $300 cdn in great shape.
They were painted unconventionally with the textured paint so some (lots) sanding and prep will be in order. I may outsource that work, I can already hear my wife griping about the time it will take me to do it. I got all the oem plugs and mounting plates on order with a rattle can of the textured paint. Seems like I’ll need to get the sills peeled off to get the texture off the top section. Really stoked to get these on. Car looks like it’s missing something with only the front aero bumper.



Maybe I’ll hunt down some of the GP rear bumper flares. I also found some JCW front brakes that could use a refresh but arent crazy expensive…loving this car though. I’m so happy to have one again.

 

Hey @veggivet do you mind sending me a picture of your Unichip in the engine bay? I can’t find any and I’m sure there is a more elegant way to mount it and these switches than jamming in to the back of the engine.

 

some wonky measurements in this compartment near the cowl vent. I roughed up some cardboard then plastic mock-up to mount the Unichip and switches to.

It should tuck neatly under the weather stripping and hang off the rear wall. There is a fair bit of compression from the foam so looks like it will fit snuggly. I’ll send it out to be 3D printed and report back. If it’s helpful to anyone I’m happy to share the step file.

I’ll probably just get a custom tune next year. With all the mods, seems like I’d really benefit from one. I just need to invest in injectors and some wires/software, but I still have this box and rocker switches rattling around so might as well make it a home.