Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)

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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #1201  
ChiliRedR56raleigh's Avatar
ChiliRedR56raleigh
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Originally Posted by matt12mcs
ChiliRed, you need to empty your inbox to receive more PM.
I realized lol. I cleared out 60 messages. Thanks for letting me know.

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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #1202  
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Not sure if my post got lost in the thread because I never got a response so il ask again

If I put high octane gas (97+) in my mini which is currently running the jb+ stock and I turn it up to 100% I assume there's another break in period just like when u first install it? Just wanna know if I should wait before taking it on a dyno

P.S. Love the JB+ it's completely worth the money if you have a N18
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #1203  
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Brian, im no expert, and im sure terry will chime in.....but i would assume so.

i know when i bump it up, i plan to run the high octane fuel for a day or so, then bump it up two notches and run it for another day or so, and then if things are looking good, bump it up to 100% and see how she runs....all while keeping a close eye on timing.

to me at least, that seems like it would be the 'safest' option, giving the time for the ECU to slowly adjust up to 100% rather than just slamming it straight to 100% from the get-go.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #1204  
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It has probably been asked before, but I must have missed it reading through all the pages. What kind of readings should we be looking for for timing?

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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #1205  
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Originally Posted by KilmerPT
It has probably been asked before, but I must have missed it reading through all the pages. What kind of readings should we be looking for for timing?

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IIRC, you're looking for 3 degree drops - this means that timing is being pulled. If timing is roughly steady or increasing during say a 3rd or 4th gear run (under boost) then you should be ok. Here's a data log that I did.

Check out post 967 and 970.

 

Last edited by cerenkov; Dec 14, 2013 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #1206  
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From: Elizabethtown, KY
I did more than a hint for my wife to get this for Christmas. I don't plan on any additional mods though but look forward to the extra 20 horses
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 11:02 AM
  #1207  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
IIRC, you're looking for 3 degree drops - this means that timing is being pulled. If timing is roughly steady or increasing during say a 3rd or 4th gear run (under boost) then you should be ok. Here's a data log that I did. Check out post 967 and 970.
Thank you cerenkov! I think I get it now. On mine, for timing, it usually is at 25-30 during normal driving then drops to 10 or so and steadily climbs back up during a pull by 1-3 degrees at a time. And for AFR, it is usually between 13.2-14.0 then goes down to 13.2 to 12.2 to 11.1 during a pull. I am using a SG2 for monitoring. I might invest in DashCommand and the ELM 327 connector to be able to easily read it better on a graph like yours. It looks pretty sweet.

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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #1208  
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Originally Posted by KilmerPT

Thank you cerenkov! I think I get it now. On mine, for timing, it usually is at 25-30 during normal driving then drops to 10 or so and steadily climbs back up during a pull by 1-3 degrees at a time. And for AFR, it is usually between 13.2-14.0 then goes down to 13.2 to 12.2 to 11.1 during a pull. I am using a SG2 for monitoring. I might invest in DashCommand and the ELM 327 connector to be able to easily read it better on a graph like yours. It looks pretty sweet.

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I can't join you guys with the jb+, but I find these posts on data very interesting. On my 2010 with stock (never modified) tune, I get 3-5 degrees advance (usually 3) and it climbs by 2 to redline. I also have never seen afr below about 13.5. Never in the 12s or 11s.

Does anyone tune by egts using the primary O2 sensor temp?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 02:28 PM
  #1209  
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You have to do about 3 good pulls to get a good true reading on AFR.....these cars try very hard to stay on the side of lean.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 06:07 AM
  #1210  
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what concerns me most is the off boost fuel trims and knock, with the can tool you can't monitor regular cruising around timing and knock counts. and with the decent increase in MPG, it's clear that the car is overall leaning out fueling which leads me to be concerned about regular driving engine health.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 07:01 AM
  #1211  
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Originally Posted by bmx045
what concerns me most is the off boost fuel trims and knock, with the can tool you can't monitor regular cruising around timing and knock counts. and with the decent increase in MPG, it's clear that the car is overall leaning out fueling which leads me to be concerned about regular driving engine health.

Is there a way to monitor this? FWIW, I'm not seeing an increase in MPG.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #1212  
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From: terry@burgertuning.com
Originally Posted by bmx045
what concerns me most is the off boost fuel trims and knock, with the can tool you can't monitor regular cruising around timing and knock counts. and with the decent increase in MPG, it's clear that the car is overall leaning out fueling which leads me to be concerned about regular driving engine health.
The JB+ itself has no effect off boost. In low load the DME runs 14.7:1 and shoves in as much timing as it can. So expect to see a lot of knock activity during cruise as it's programmed that way from the factory. Logging during cruise is irrelevant from a modification standpoint. It would only be relevant if there is some mechanical issue with the car you're trying to sort out.

If you're looking for a more comprehensive data logging/code management solution the BT cable is what you need: http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #1213  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic
You have to do about 3 good pulls to get a good true reading on AFR.....these cars try very hard to stay on the side of lean.


If you had full control of the ecu instead of fooling it , this would not be necessary.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:54 AM
  #1214  
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Originally Posted by rs53
If you had full control of the ecu instead of fooling it , this would not be necessary.
Fooling the ecu instead of nothing at all, is necessary for us n18 guys.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #1215  
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Originally Posted by rs53
If you had full control of the ecu instead of fooling it , this would not be necessary.
This is the case even in stock form sir.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 12:04 PM
  #1216  
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Any knowledge about Toluene as an octane booster?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #1217  
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Originally Posted by iminir56
Any knowledge about Toluene as an octane booster?
I used to use it on my talon.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

I would buy 3 gallons at Sherwin Williams and then roll about 3 stores over to BP and dump it all in there.
 

Last edited by nine5raptor; Dec 17, 2013 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #1218  
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Not to be random, but I thought I might want some answers from you guys and Terry since he is an expert with engines and their parts... Does anyone else let the car idle for roughly 30-60 seconds after driving the car to let the turbo spool down, and cool off a little before the oil supply is cut off? I always remember my dad telling me to let turbocharged trucks or cars idle for a minute or so before cutting it off so the oil supply isn't cut off before it has a chance to stop spinning, and I've always done that with turbo'd vehicles. Anyone else do that too, or have any feedback?

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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #1219  
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I always did that with my boosted scion tc, I had a turbo timer for that though
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 03:02 PM
  #1220  
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Originally Posted by iminir56
Any knowledge about Toluene as an octane booster?
Terry?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #1221  
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From: terry@burgertuning.com
Never used it myself. But, MMT works nicely.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #1222  
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Not to be random, but I thought I might want some answers from you guys and Terry since he is an expert with engines and their parts... Does anyone else let the car idle for roughly 30-60 seconds after driving the car to let the turbo spool down, and cool off a little before the oil supply is cut off? I always remember my dad telling me to let turbocharged trucks or cars idle for a minute or so before cutting it off so the oil supply isn't cut off before it has a chance to stop spinning, and I've always done that with turbo'd vehicles. Anyone else do that too, or have any feedback?

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i do, but then again i do it regardless of what car im driving (turbo or non-turbo).....its just a habit.

unless im in some horrible rush, i typically pull in and park, then i usually check my phone for messages/ email/ ect. for ~1-2 mins, then i shut it down and leave.

ive heard on modern turbo cars, he 'cooling time' is not necessary.....but i dont see how it could hurt......

i would not go so far as to install a turbo timer however.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic
This is the case even in stock form sir.


Correct but it was made to do that with much less boost and millions of dollars of testing with millions of dollars of equipment.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #1224  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
i do, but then again i do it regardless of what car im driving (turbo or non-turbo).....its just a habit. unless im in some horrible rush, i typically pull in and park, then i usually check my phone for messages/ email/ ect. for ~1-2 mins, then i shut it down and leave. ive heard on modern turbo cars, he 'cooling time' is not necessary.....but i dont see how it could hurt...... i would not go so far as to install a turbo timer however.
Okay, I think I'll continue to do it. I usually drive pretty conservatively the last minute or two before getting to my destination to aid in turbo cool down, and such. Thanks for the replies! I also usually do the phone check as well. People that ride with me usually just jump out of the car, and look at me like come on you're wasting time, but I've got most of my usual passengers trained to know i let the car cool down for a bit.

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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #1225  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
IIRC, you're looking for 3 degree drops - this means that timing is being pulled. If timing is roughly steady or increasing during say a 3rd or 4th gear run (under boost) then you should be ok. Here's a data log that I did. Check out post 967 and 970.
By the way, thanks for recommending RJ's. Went over there yesterday and he welded it back on for a 'whopping' 20 bucks. He seemed like a Nice guy. I'm so OCD though I noticed that one tip is like 1mm farther out than the other, but I'm sure most people wouldn't even notice. He even welded the other one just to make sure it didn't fall off in the future.

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