IT CAN'T BE ..........................................

Back to the topic, 'more choices more happy campers'. We know that Hubie tested his H1 cam vs the Newman. The Newman cam starts to lose steam at 6,000 rpm while the Hubie 1 still pulls hard to 7300 + rpm. I wonder where the Nitrostick will compare.

Good job NitroMini!

 

Love it!! The regrind cam has been around forever!! Yes a new billet is a better way... how ever it is NOT the way!! Cutting the base circle is the way to more lift.. but the ICL and LSA will stay the same. You can change the duration also.. But to say that a regrind is bad... is bad!!

The Hyd lifter will take a lot of travel befor it messes up.. the off center rocker geometry.. but doubtfull as it on a rocker shaft.... DUH!!
Basic heights under .400 lift?? ain't happening!! Valve seats?? how did they get in this?? the seats have nothing to do with the cam regrind.

SOOOOooo.... seems that having a new cam.. or a regrind.. both are good and both will perform!! As for the pics of the Newman.. that is a cast billet! Yes it could have had the lobes squared a bit.. but the roller rocker doesnt touch that part of the lobe... so it just looks bad!! as for the one that broke?? Need more info..

I love how you guys ***** and moan.. towards each other.. makes good reading!! I think when something new comes out... it is a good thing!! And seeing how heads/water-meth/ headers/exhaust has been trashed... now it is time for camshaft...LOL you guys!! LOL

Just me...................................

Thumper

 

Obviously, the space in between the lobes and the journals has no effect on the performance of the cam, but it just looks cheap and unfinished...not to mention, fugly.
There must not have been enough material in the blank to have a final finish machine performed, and that can't be good.

 

Ragged edges like you see are quite bad as they significantly weaken the cam itself. Every one of those little "jags" is spot for a stress crack to start, hence why every other cam I've personally seen has been "shouldered" or had the edges of the lobes milled clean, even if not anymore then 1mm deep.
Also, I thought we were talking about 'high performance' mods here that have been well thought out. That severity of roughness will cause dramatic oil wrapping which is loss of HP. Though nothing like the crank would do, still this cam will have oil spinning on it like a rope at high RPMs.
Really, if I had ever received a cam like this I would have sent it back, especially for the high price I may have been charged for it.

 

It looks like it was made out of rebar on a lathe

I have seen a OEM cam and a Shrick cam and those cams are works of art compared to this.

Thank you Onasled for the great info

 

Great post Thump.

You are correct, that is a cast Billet and I love how people get all caught up in the look. That cam in the pic was snapped upon delivery. It was shipped from the UK to Brunei so who knows what happened. To date I know of 0 problems with any Newman cam installed world wide. I've been running the "stock" Newman cam for a long time now and I love it.

I am looking forward to the before and after dynos of these re-grind cams though.

Longboard

 

Dude your sending it to Puerto Rico?

 

I'll post a photo or two of a OEM cam tomorrow. Yes there is a difference .

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

I installed a faulty Newman grind that wouldn't allow the MINI to idle or rev correctly and Eric Savage installed one at his shop too. In both cases re-installing the OE cam returned the car to normal operation. Now you know of two problems.

 

I have a photo of an OE cam in the first post, for a close-up look below; NitroStick in the foreground and stock behind it.

 

Lynn told me that Mike at Mynes Performance will be getting a Nitro Stick cam in a few weeks. They will be testing it with other cams and I am sure posting the results.

http://mynesperformance.forumotion.c...e927db42cc70d3

 

Yeap..I agree and Ken Newman explained all this to me too...the reason I took that photo was to show Newman the cam broke on transit...Newman (brilliant service) sent me another one in quick time for free (but this time the packaging was 2 twice the size for extra protection )

Still have sitting at home thou...apparently I need at minimum 380cc injectors if i want to install the cam safely.

 

Weren't you going to sell it just a few days ago?

First time I saw the picture of the snapped Newman it wasn't posted by you and it wasn't clear if it failed while running in the car or not, at least as I read it. Thanks for clearing that up, definitely a key element for those not aware of the circumstances (like the majority of us). I have a Newman sitting right in front of me waiting since last year to get installed. It has similar raged edges to those posted here and I want to know more about possible operational issues. Keith's post are always very informative, and this one is as well, but only touches the craftmanship of the cam (as well as two probematic grinds that we now know of). Onasled has commented on possible operational issues due to the rough finishes that I would want to hear/read more info/discussion on. At this moment in time, this is the key issue for me with regards to installing this cam or not.

I would imagine there are hundreds of the Newman cams already installed in Europe and the USA. Wouldn't there already be issues with those that we would have heard of? 2 issues in hundreds of cams doesn't seem to be a large percentage. Specially since lately everyone is just dying for someone else's product to fail in order to pounce .


it wasn't sold to me, but i fail to see the humor in sending it here instead of anywhere else. Maybe I'm missing something

JIMINNI, I know that cam wasn't yours, who's is it? Do you know of any operational issues with its performance? Why was it removed?

 

How does a cam break during shipping? Was the box broken also?
Not sure why it breaking in transit is any better then breaking while in use.

Honestly, I'm really surprised that anyone would put a cam like this in their car. It's unfortunate that some here can just say the "Oh well, who cares what it looks like" thing. Are we all now just to expect low quality just because we have been "told" not to worry about it?
Come on people, start demanding the quality that you have paid for. I can't believe someone would want associate their company name to such a thing.


Now this is a custom cam.

 

This thread is supposed to about the re-grind, but I know a few things that address this side issue. I received a Newman camshaft from RMW a year ago with very rough as cast sand features, and run-out on one lobe, edges worse than the example show above, Partsman posted a copy of one of my photos earlier. I sent photos to an engineer who is involved in engine failure testing for domestic auto manufacturers; he also presented the photos to other professionals including a camshaft engineer. None of the evaluations were flattering, but none said functionality could be determined by appearance, all called attention to the possible crack inviting stress risers at the undercuts and sand cast features on the lobe edges. The camshaft engineer added this comment, “If the manufacturer thought that was OK, then what other shortcuts were taken in the manufacturing process?” Keep in mind my example had larger grain features than those in recent photos, the blank was black, and it lacked markings seen on other Newman camshafts I’ve had in my hands, FWIW. The latest double inspected Newman cam I installed has greater attention to detail, and much tighter grain texture; the vehicle in which it is installed idles and runs very well. After experiencing a faulty grind it makes me wonder if the many other Newman camshaft owners who have idle issues after installation may have a less than accurate grind, especially since the latest install I performed idles right.

About the broken cam example, because of the blank casting process I would venture to guess it was a foundry fault, and because Newman is a relatively small company they lack the resources to inspect the blank metal’s integrity. The company is a business and therefore must make a profit, to do that they must seek low cost foundry services, most likely offshore. India has blank casting foundries for example, with a foundry far away (example), it is difficult to exert control over the process. Here is another broken in transit Newman example http://www.750formula.co.uk/forum/vi....php?f=4&t=189. Although a non-MINI, it shows the likelihood of a casting void failure. Notice how the lobe edges are not like the bastard child treated MINI’s.

 

I think it's because such a large part of the MINI community isn't doing any real education on what they should be looking for in a cam. I've seen a lot of people out mod their understanding of what they're doing to their cars if their told it will satisfy their quest for more power.

 

Well, the one I bought directly from Newman a few months ago was awful. My car would not idle correctly, when the OE was put back on everything was fine again. There ya go. To date now you know of a few Newman cams that were faulty.

Though I will say the replacement they sent me was/is fine.

 

Hey i'm sorry for the PR remark , I thought he was sending it to somewhere else. The cam we removed didn't seem to have any operational issues. The engine was removed as the car was totaled

 

Well the offer still stands....most like i wont be be installing the Newman...just waiting for Lynn for confirm my Nitrostick offer...

If everything from Lynn's side is ok...then it'll fal in-line with the Mynes 550cc injectors and Mynes remote tune (once it becomes available)..

Rock n Roll!!!

 

 

I see a lot of people... OK a few people, make statements about of which they have NO Knowledge.. what was wrong with the camshaft from Newman?? Did you check the dimensions/measurements against that camshaft?? Did you try to TUNE with the "faulty camshaft" What did you do differently with the replacement cam that you didn't do with the first cam... if anything?? Please no slam here.. but it seems to call a product "BAD" there has to be some type verification.. yes?? Sure it didn't idle correct... why?? Install?? Not set in correct?? and was there a measure check the specs on the replacement.. or was that just stuck in and it worked good??

I think the more cams we have to choose from the better.. but come on guys... how can we dis a product with NO info ON that produce!! Just like slamming a "Re-Grind" !! these are ROLLER rockers.. not flat tappet!! the cam surface doesn't have to be hardened for the flat lifter. That was the issue with the "back in the day" regrinds.. the hardness was an issue and the lifter/ cam lobe would wear out!!

I know of guys paying $200+ for an adjust cam gear ( super trick on the Bragging rights) and then installing the gear "straight up, or ) with no cam phase change... why waste the money on a adjustable cam gear then... I would be more concerned on the way that money was spent.. vs the ruff core and lobe sides.. or a regrind from one of the top cam grinders in the US!!

Motor ON.. you are correct!! People are more willing to buy off the INTERNET.. than asking some questions, and THEN being able to weed thru the bickering for their needs!! In the years to come it will be different..

But now... be carefull... I should suggest using PM/s vs the open forum on specific questions.. to stop the loss of intelligent info thru bickering!! Just a thought..

Just me...............................

Thumper

 

Does Newman even supply the cam card? And about the, "vs the ruff core and lobe sides..." I think onasled kinda adressed that in this statement, "Come on people, start demanding the quality that you have paid for".

 

Oh thumper, relax. The person(who knows a TON about our cars as seen in this thread) put it on my car it wouldnt idle, then took it back off and put the OE cam and it ran just FINE. What do YOU think was wrong? The people who sent me the replacement didnt even ask what was wrong with it and shipped me another one, they didnt even ask for it back. It is sitting in my garage, I am thinking of making a sculpture out of it. If you care SO much I will ship it to you so you can check it out. Why dont you put it in your car? lol. You may love how it idles.

 

I installed the faulty camshaft in mdbsat’s MINI; the sprocket doesn’t leave the chain, so not a possibility of an issue there. Check the dimensions, what dimensions? Even if I had the inclination to pull the motor (can you fit a degree wheel in there?) to verify timing, there is no cam card supplied with a Newman cam. I replaced: cam position sensor, plug wires, coil, and inspected spark plugs to eliminate ignition fault possibilities (no fixy), re-installed the OE cam and all was well, removed the replacement parts and all continued to be well. David Newman didn’t blink when mdbsat told him there was a problem with the faulty cam and has not asked for it to be returned. You would think the manufacturer would want to examine the faulty product or at the very least ask for the batch number; guess what there is no such number/marking on a Newman camshaft, only the catalogue part number and hand etched MINI on the end.

Yup, I stuck the replacement in another MINI and it worked good. Call Helix, ask about all the trouble shooting hoops they jumped through, and be sure to cast doubts on their competency while your at it.