Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Camshaft Re-Grind

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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:08 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works
lol..... You might have forgotten that I have ground more cams than anyone here. It all started 4 yrs ago but let's not let facts get in the way of internet myths. Myths are so much more interesting to believe instead of the truth. We settled on Newman because the cams were done right right the first time out instead of "guessing" like many of the cams I have littering up the shelves from other cam grinders.
This Newman/RMW cam doesn't appear to have been "done right"...

...if the depth of the hardening made the cam this brittle to break right out of the box, then I would definitely not install one in my car.

...and the machining quality of this one...

...also doesn't appear to be "done right", and is just plain poor.

Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works
Don't be hurt, heck I had Newman make me numerous custom grinds before Hubie EVER had any of his. Again, keep up the myths..... quite entertaining.
How ironic...

...and hating on Hubie to boot ...not good, man.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 07:08 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
It can be improved upon yes! I can’t answer the lift question for you because I don’t know the OE measurement, the stock rocker is just fine, there’s not enough removed from the heel to cause overreach on the roller. Lift is not the whole story on cylinder filling or evacuation.

This profile is beyond the tinkering stage.
Yeah I remember Lynn discussing his cam grinding before he was banned from NAM. The more options the better. This will be a cost effective option for those that want to use their stock cam or their high mileage cam going forward. It'll be interesting to see how these grinds work out. Good stuff Keith!

Finally, what are the lobe diams of the intake and exhaust over stock? I know you've got a caliper in yer shop.... Or is it already in your MINI?

Jeremy
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Motor On
I thought this thread was about OE camshaft re-grinds? Let's keep it on topic......
Drew, I really hope you have warned these thugs about comming into this and other threads just to bad mouth. If they persist in this childish crud then their own threads will be open to anything I really don't think they want us in there tearing it up Thank you.


PS. I see you LB and Jan watching this thread



Now back to re-grinds mine should be here next week
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #79  
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I thought that this would help some of you that are asking question about the Nitro Stick Cam that Kieth installed in his MINI and started this thread about. I talked with Lynn personally about posting the actual CAM CARD that shows exactly all the specification on it. He said that he always supplies an information CAM CARD with the cam so that it can be checked before installing it in the engine.He also wanted it very clear that he is NOT selling these through any business as of yet and only helping anyone that would like to have their oem cam reground to a performance level.
 
Attached Thumbnails Camshaft Re-Grind-cam-card.jpg  
Old May 16, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #80  
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This should help anyone understand about the cam. They can also go on the net and learn about the terminologies used to also better understand how cams function. I hope this helps some of you in a productive positive manner that this thread was originally started as.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by JIMINNI
Drew, I really hope you have warned these thugs about comming into this and other threads just to bad mouth. If they persist in this childish crud then their own threads will be open to anything I really don't think they want us in there tearing it up Thank you.



Now back to re-grinds mine should be here next week
Thugs? Children? The names just keep on coming and then you make a threat . And who is the "us" in your last statement?

I didn't bash the cam JIMINNI but rather asked you to explain your reasoning to your statement. Obviously you can't which means you made a purchase based on a conversation. I hope it works out. I'm sure it's not a bad cam but again that's not the point here. The point is that Lynn talked smack over and over and over yet could not nor would not ever post a thing to back up anything he was doing with his Frankenstein car.

Longboard
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 10:01 AM
  #82  
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Ok, just playing devil's advocate here out of ignorance (not trying to start anything).

Why not just take a blank and grind it to the Nitrosticks spec's? How much more expensive would that be?
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 10:01 AM
  #83  
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Hey that top pic which Partsman posted was the first cam that Newman sent me...hehehe, but after showing Ken Newman the pic, he quickly sent me another one FOC...

The cam is still sitting at home thou..but since the Crower/Lynn cam came to light..I think Im having a change of heart....
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by cutemini
I thought that this would help some of you that are asking question about the Nitro Stick Cam that Kieth installed in his MINI and started this thread about. I talked with Lynn personally about posting the actual CAM CARD that shows exactly all the specification on it. He said that he always supplies an information CAM CARD with the cam so that it can be checked before installing it in the engine.He also wanted it very clear that he is NOT selling these through any business as of yet and only helping anyone that would like to have their oem cam reground to a performance level.
Ask him for some before and after dyno results so we can see how it performs .

Longboard
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by jhiggs26
Yes if you're in a pinch(like a bunch of Classic Mini owners) grind away. If you've got $$$ why not start grinding from a blank to maintain rocker geometry and valve lash. ie What about the valve seats, will they take a beating over time with undercutting the base circle???

Jeremy
On some early cams that we cut from stock cores we had issues at high rpms
I had to go to a solid lifter design to get the cams to work when cutting away the base circle
The geometry of the rockers are bad enough already
You will end up with the tip of the rocker not touching the valve stem correctly
As the old saying goes
Been there...... done that
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by jhiggs26
Yes if you're in a pinch(like a bunch of Classic Mini owners) grind away. If you've got $$$ why not start grinding from a blank to maintain rocker geometry and valve lash. ie What about the valve seats, will they take a beating over time with undercutting the base circle???

Jeremy
Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works
On some early cams that we cut from stock cores we had issues at high rpms
I had to go to a solid lifter design to get the cams to work when cutting away the base circle
The geometry of the rockers are bad enough already
You will end up with the tip of the rocker not touching the valve stem correctly
As the old saying goes
Been there...... done that
Hey Jeremy good questions. You can do two things, listen to Jan and maybe he can cut the right cam for your needs, he has seem to need to have cut quite a few to get one that works, or you can call Dave Crower from Crower cams and get the real answer. Here for everyones entertainment is some info on Crower:



5-01-09
A letter from: Bruce Crower President and CEO
Crower Cams & Equipment Co. Inc. (Family owned and operated)
You are now on the only historical Crower Website. We have been manufacturing quality products for over
(50) fifty years. We have received numerous comments and inquiries from our valued customers. They have
been confused by other Crower Websites and products. The time has come to stop the confusion. These other
Crower Websites and products are not affiliated with us and we do not support them in any way; nor warranty
their products. Our new 100,000 sq. foot, state of the art, manufacturing facility is located at: 6180 Business
Center Court San Diego, Ca 92154 USA. Our phone number (619)661-6477, fax number (619)661-6488, email
address is ENGR@CROWER.COM.
The Crower name and our products are genuine, not knockoffs. Our precision Crower products come from our
facility. When you buy a Crower product, you can feel secure in knowing where it was made and who to call
for the answers.
Don’t buy an imitation.
Thank you very much, for your faith and support, we value our customers.
H. Bruce Crower
President
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by jhiggs26
Yes if you're in a pinch...grind away. If you've got $$$ why not start grinding from a blank to maintain rocker geometry and valve lash. ie What about the valve seats, will they take a beating over time with undercutting the base circle???...
Your first statement in this quote acknowledges the context in which I framed my report at the very begining.
Originally Posted by k-huevo
These are times of austerity for some of us; performance gain per dollar spent must start with fewest dollars spent from the get-go. Here’s a way to spend fewer dollars for what is normally a high priced performance product in the MINI market, have the OE camshaft re-ground...
I've been away from my regular job for 9 months, austerity (extreme economy) is about me. Austereness is also the reason why there is no before and after dyno plot posted from me.

The other questions you’ve put forth are the same ones I asked before receiving the NitroStick cam version and then I verified safety margins myself by watching the tappet bucket and roller while rotating the cam. The NitroStick re-grind profile was designed to avoid needing lash caps, and not overtax the OE rockers, and use OE springs, and be easy on valve seats. Look at the date on the original cam card and you will see the NitroStick profile has been in service on other vehicles for a year.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #88  
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I find it highly funny that certain individuals in here are calling others thugs and children. Truth be told, the children part is right for the same people calling others these names. When I first read K-Huevos post, I was excited. The knowledge was there (as usual) and it made perfect sense. But then after reading the second post I saw where this was going, downhill FAST. Now we have 4 pages of a mixture of facts and useless drivel. Seriously people, please don't come in here bad mouthing certain people because they throw down facts in a way you don't like or because you don't like a certain person. It makes you no different that what you are calling them.

The only thing I can suggest to those that want the knowledge is to absorb the good information, and ignore the bad. This thread HAD the making of a good topic discussion, but I see certain rivalries has ruined any chances of that happening.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Fatherdeth
I find it highly funny that certain individuals in here are calling others thugs and children. Truth be told, the children part is right for the same people calling others these names. When I first read K-Huevos post, I was excited. The knowledge was there (as usual) and it made perfect sense. But then after reading the second post I saw where this was going, downhill FAST. Now we have 4 pages of a mixture of facts and useless drivel. Seriously people, please don't come in here bad mouthing certain people because they throw down facts in a way you don't like or because you don't like a certain person. It makes you no different that what you are calling them.

The only thing I can suggest to those that want the knowledge is to absorb the good information, and ignore the bad. This thread HAD the making of a good topic discussion, but I see certain rivalries has ruined any chances of that happening.
Ok I assume you are talking about me, as I was the one that called them "thugs". What would you call them? "Gate-crashers", "bashers"? Also I never called them "children", I called them "childish". As this is the way elementary school kids act, "my dad can kick your dads butt". I'm sorry if you didn't like the way I handled it, but I was defending myself. I am very involved in this thread, as I am getting a "NitroStick" cam.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 06:33 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by JIMINNI
Ok I assume you are talking about me, as I was the one that called them "thugs". What would you call them? "Gate-crashers", "bashers"? Also I never called them "children", I called them "childish". As this is the way elementary school kids act, "my dad can kick your dads butt". I'm sorry if you didn't like the way I handled it, but I was defending myself. I am very involved in this thread, as I am getting a "NitroStick" cam.
Well, that was mainly used as an example, plus I didn't call out any names. It's just highly annoying with all the unhealthy arguments. Now, most threads are going to have arguments, and that's fine. It's just here it seems like there is too much of a rivalry thing going. I'm here to learn about cams, as I'm in the market for one.
So don't take it personal at all. I have no problems with anybody on this site, although I have had little squabbles with several. Now, we should get back on with the cams.
 
Old May 16, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #91  
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:48 PM
  #92  
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Dave Crower (CROWER CAMS)and Lynn(Nitrominis) talked about this many times for about a year in 2007 before the first master was cut. The thought was to have a cam that was better than anything currently available under the street performance category and would work with a wider range of various modification commonly done to date. There were no dyno runs on the completed street version Nitro Stick. An *Auto Meter D-pic was the testing devise to show the values of a comparison with a newman cam and the Nitro Stick. Although not a chassis dyno and lacking detailed information the Auto Meter D-Pic has an accelerometer which is close to within 1% of accuracy if set correctly to real word HP values. The values showed a consistent higher number with the Nitro Stick compared to the newman cam. The test although subjective was done on a fully stock 2004 MCS. So Crower /Nitro Stick determined had a winner. Crower was then able to re-grind safely an oem MINI core cam to performance level specification at a fraction of the cost of the other new cams and be very competitive with no effect whatsoever on the rest of the valve train. Mynes may be testing and comparing Crower/Nitro Stick, newman along with MegaMini camshaft this summer and should post the results.
*
http://www.autometer.com/cat_dpic.aspx?gid=3284&sid=4

http://www.autometer.com/download_in...pic%20inst.pdf
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by k-huevo
Your first statement in this quote acknowledges the context in which I framed my report at the very begining.

I've been away from my regular job for 9 months, austerity (extreme economy) is about me. Austereness is also the reason why there is no before and after dyno plot posted from me.

The other questions you’ve put forth are the same ones I asked before receiving the NitroStick cam version and then I verified safety margins myself by watching the tappet bucket and roller while rotating the cam. The NitroStick re-grind profile was designed to avoid needing lash caps, and not overtax the OE rockers, and use OE springs, and be easy on valve seats. Look at the date on the original cam card and you will see the NitroStick profile has been in service on other vehicles for a year.
Hey Keith,

I got your email. I'll check over my stock cam to see if I can confirm some online #'s. ie http://www.catcams.be/800x600/mainframe.htm?english

I agree rotating the crank to see how the valvetrain is doing is a good call. However, like all aftermarket parts, the real test will be when the motor's warmed up and pulling like a MO FO! Keep sharing with NAM Keith!

Jeremy
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 12:12 PM
  #94  
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Ok I ran some numbers on my stock cam with about 40K miles.

Intake: 30.05mm +- .01mm and 35.20mm +- .02mm.
Exhaust: 30.06 +- .02mm and 35.62mm +- .02mm.

That gives me about what CATCAMS stock MINI cam reads at 5.15mm +- intake lobe lift and 5.56mm +- exhaust lobe lift.

The only thing of interest on the above Nitrostick cam card is the rocker ratios of 1.75:1 for both intake and exhaust. CATCAMS suggests 1.63:1 for intake and 1.41:1 for exhaust. Anybody measure our rocker ratios?

The duration on the cam card seems to approximate the Schrick/Ultrik profiles. Maybe the ramps and flanks are ( instead of / though!

If anybody's got the cam lobe lift of these Nitrostick cams feel free to share!

Jeremy
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #95  
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"The only thing of interest on the above Nitrostick cam card is the rocker ratios of 1.75:1 for both intake and exhaust. CATCAMS suggests 1.63:1 for intake and 1.41:1 for exhaust. Anybody measure our rocker ratios?

The duration on the cam card seems to approximate the Schrick/Ultrik profiles. Maybe the ramps and flanks are ( instead of / though!

If anybody got the cam lobe lift of these Nitrostick cams feel free to share!

Jeremy

__________________


Now you are getting it!! the Cam guys are not using the rocker ratio for the MINI!! AND that will blow your mind when trying to compare a cam spec to another!! LOL!! Use the lift at the cam lobe.. not at the Valve!! 1.6 and the 1.4 are the correct rocker ratioes... anything else is just to confuse the issue!! Just like in the 60's when cam grinders were measuring all over to help keep their grinds special.. !! ( lobe lift 214 and 232 Lobe lift!! Duration at .050 are the numbers we use int eh US, however the Brits and the Germans use MM and measure at a totally different spec and lift numbers...) cool huh?? then there is the lobe separation and the intake center line... lol.. this goes on and on!! At least the Crower Spec card is decipherable using the cam specs here in the us..yes??

I am sure as more cam become available.. the specs will be essayer to understand...

Just me............................

Thumper
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #96  
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Basic .. Lift numbers:
LOBE Lift
.214 int
.232 exh
Lift at the Valve
.342 int.
.328 exh
Duration at .050
176* int
188* exh
LSA
114*
ICL
110*
Stock springs and retainers.

Newman cam.. I can not find all the specs from my notes
Lift at the valve
399 int
397 exh
ICL is 100*
duration numbers I cant find...

Have fun...

Just me..................

Thumper
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by jhiggs26
...The duration on the cam card seems to approximate the Schrick/Ultrik profiles...
Finger the lobe and you’ll realize the similarity is in number only.
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #98  
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That's what I figured Kieth.

Maybe Partsman can do some quick measuring/comparing before his new Ultrik goes out the door. I think he's getting a Nitrostick of some sort; Partsman???

Jeremy
 
Old May 17, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #99  
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Here are some more pics of a Newman cam that was purchased from RMW. We removed the engine on this car today. This is a very rough looking cam. ~disclaimer~ I only mentioned RMW as this is where this cam came from.




 
Old May 17, 2009 | 06:25 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by jhiggs26
That's what I figured Kieth.

Maybe Partsman can do some quick measuring/comparing before his new Ultrik goes out the door. I think he's getting a Nitrostick of some sort; Partsman???

Jeremy
Sorry man, this post is about 45 minutes late. I just bubble wrapped and boxed it up for it's potential trip to San Juan.
 



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