This project has been evolving over the last few years. In this latest reiteration, we redesigned the intercooler system from a water/air barrel type to an air/air type front mount sitting side by side with an aluminum radiator, added our stage 3 cylinder head, new 550cc injectors, and Bytetronik DME tuning software.

1.6L Engine, stock compression, +0.020 bore
JE Pistons, Carrillo Rods
Stage 3 cylinder head +1.8mm IN/+2.3mm EX
Stock camshaft
Garrett GT3071 Turbo
Custom return type fuel system

boost set to 16PSI, running 91 octane
337whp/278tq



boost set to 22PSI, running 91 octane
394whp/324tq

 

SWEET!

 

sign me up.

 

Wow, that is some serious power! Very nice, man.

Where do I send my car?

 

that is awesome man. always love to read about your work

 

So what is this? "Bytetronik DME tuning" I googled it and the only thing that came up was this thread Better than "Dimsport"?

 

Looks sexy! more details por favor

 

Great Job Hubie and anyone else involved!!!

Can't wait to see more

 

that is freekin SWEET!!!!!!

 

Most of it is above 5k, but you are still doing well even past 4k. Just means you gotta drive it like it has v-tec in it. And hey with the power all up top you could probably do well with mileage if you keep it under 3k. Very cool guys, not my cup of tea as far as the curve goes but damn impressive.

 

Dont try to imagine the driveability of a setup like this!

Just find a way to ride a mini like this you will be surprised!

Believe me!

 

That car is too beautiful to not be on the street
337/278, thats a sleeper...

 

Oh yeah I bet, but I would have to track one down first.

 

Very nice! I've always liked this car. It was one of the reasons I started modding mine Now that it seems MYNES/ABF is coming out with turbo kits, what would one cost to achieve similar results? And when are we gunna see this body kit??

 

Nice! Any pics of the front mount?

 

the driveability on these turbo'ed Mini's are actually really good. On the lower rpm range (below 5000rpm) the car drives like a normal Mini, but as soon as you punch it, the engine revs thru the remaining 3500rpm in a flash. The only thing that you have to worry about is the torque steer So good tires and suspensions are recommended

The other thing to keep in mind is this: the dyno run is typically done in 4th gear so it's going to show more lag under the curve. But under normal driving where one runs thru all the gears, the only gear that's going to be affected is "first". After that, the car should already be in boost; so subsequent gear simply takes up where the previous gear leaves off and just pull to redline... with the upgraded internals, the MINI can safely rev to 7800 rpm...

i hope i'm explaining this right... feel free to correct me if i'm mistaken

I'm sure Hubie can post up some dyno runs to demonstrate it :D

 

thanks mike, even though s/c and turbo are both forced induction, the dynamics of how the power is produced and delivered are very different. we can get into debates on the pros and cons, but it really comes down to what the application is and how you are trying to achieve it. by design, turbocharging allows much more flexibility and the "shape" of the power curve can be tuned with adjustable boost controllers. as long as the vehicle and components are designed with the maximum power level in mind, a turbocharged vehicle will have a tremendous range of operation and thus multiple personalities.

for example, this is a dyno sheet of the same vehicle on 91 octane at 22psi.

394whp/324tq



there have been multiple discussions on power "under the curve" and average horsepower, etc, etc.
i agree that if you are limited to driving or racing between 0-4k, then a s/c MINI will be faster than this particular configuration. But, if we are talking about a 8k redline, from 4k-8k, the power this turbo MINI makes "over the curve" when compared to a s/c MINI is ridiculous.

 

yay for snails and boost

 

Nice plots DR FUH! Let's see some video clips please.

Noob Question: What has to be done to the ECU to run variable boost profiles on same car? A full re-tune in between or can you run mutiple maps?

Jeremy

 

We can change the fuel and timing maps X and Y axis. So you can scale the X axis (which is load points for the map) to read higher to accomedate higher boost level fueling. Same as the RPM points (Y axis) scaling the main fuel and timing maps to read higher RPMs instead of it going lean after 7000 RPM on a stock fuel map Y (RPM) axis. The ECU has a very good interpolation subroutine within the code to allow this function. Some flashing software on the market can't do this since they haven't found these functions and understand really how the BMWMINI/Siemens software works.

Jason
MYNES/ABF

 

Ok thanks Jason.

For my upcoming non ECU'd Classic Mini build if we want to run a mid boost and higher boost conditions all we'll have to do it swap out carb needles(maybe dashpot springs) and rotate the dizzy.

Jeremy

 

True


Jason
MYNES/ABF

 

Good to see "The Black Car" back up, tuned, and running better then ever. Also that FMIC setup is VERY UNIQUE. Brain is an awesome guy. He helped me get my MINI back up and running a few times this past year.

Hubie great job and I hope to meet you sometime.

 

Well if you have to ask you can't afford it. I've tried a couple times to get that question out of Hubie and have yet to get an answer. For me I want to know how it compares cost wise to the Rotrex. Brains car has got to be the most costly Mini ever built and it shows . The first time I saw his car in person I was blown away. The attention to detail was amazing.

I'm going to guess that if Hubie ever offered this as a complete kit with everything needed to duplicate Brian's it would come in around the $20,000 range. Hubie please correct me if I'm wrong.

Here is whats listed in the first post to get this power which really makes it seem simple

1.6L Engine, stock compression, +0.020 bore
JE Pistons, Carrillo Rods
Stage 3 cylinder head +1.8mm IN/+2.3mm EX
Stock camshaft
Garrett GT3071 Turbo
Custom return type fuel system

I've learned from my build that nothing is that easy or cheap. Here is what else I think is in this build that's missing from above to make it all work.

Custom Turbo manifold
Custom exhaust
Custom intake manifold
Custom intake piping
Custom fuel rail
Blow off valve
Custom Radiator
High flow water pump
Boost controller
Performance Clutch
Lightweight Flywheel
Quaife

And I know there is a ton more items in the hardware package to tie it all together.

The cool part for all R53 owners is that we now have choices for whatever best suits your needs or your pocket book.

Longboard

 

thanks for the nice comments Longboard, im sure Brain appreciates it as well.
you are correct about "whatever best suits your needs or your pocket book".
a build like this is priceless in many ways since it is used for multiple purposes other than a daily ride - R&D, marketing, racing, etc. Actual costs to reproduce this project far exceed $20,000 in parts alone. Other than the drag car, i can probably think of only four or five other MINI projects out there that I have personally been involved with that consumed as much or more resources than what was committed into making this MINI a complete and well balanced package from concept to reality.

i definitely know you understand this having gone thru the development of your project and reaching your goals. your rotrex MINI is quite an accomplishment as well and im sure it has consumed countless hours and resources.

you asked the question concerning how the turbo system compares to the rotrex in cost. that is a very difficult question to answer unless i make certain assumptions. if after reading my response, you still have additional questions, we can create a new thread or discuss this offline at your convenience.

my first assumption is your goal was to achieve 300 horsepower, hub or wheel is irrelevant.
my second assumption is you are asking about the cost to produce the horsepower, not all the ancilliary components, i.e. brakes, suspension, etc., necessary to support the additional horsepower.
my third assumption is your engine is built - RMW high compression pistons, RMW head, RMW cam, etc., and uses RMW water/meth kit to aide in engine management. I will not factor in additional costs from engine upgrades or support systems since we can achieve 300 hp on the stock engine and I do not know what is attainable with the rotrex kit on a stock engine.

the major components of the turbo conversion kit consists of:

garrett GT25-30 series ball bearing turbo
wastegate actuator - internal
sch 10 SS tubular exhaust manifold
3" SS v-band downpipe with flex and adapter to turbo exhaust housing
Idler pulley and bracket
Meziere electric water pump and relay kit, block off plate, water neck, lines, fittings, and aluminum expansion tank
intake and filter assembly
top mount intercooler, 2.5" aluminum tubing, HKS SSBOV, and throttle body adapter plate
550cc injectors
AN lines, fittings, hoses, clamps, brackets, hardware, eletrical, straps, exhaust wrap
custom DME tuning

Cost: $7500
installation time: approx 15-20 hrs (cost not included)
engine modifications required: none

this is a bolt on kit and easily reversible if the end user wishes to return to s/c. powerband is quite different - peak horsepower is similar, but turbo will have much higher torque. from 0-4k, the hp and tq are similar, but from 4-8k, the turbo will have significantly more hp and tq "under the curve"






BTW, now that you have an idea of what it costs to make 300 hp with a turbo, how about sharing what it costs to achieve the same goal with a rotrex? Thanks.