I bet when you nail it in the stroker feels like you're putting wrinkles in it

 

it's amazing that a pump gas MINI can feel like that

 

But I bet once they got a taste you could charge for rides and make a few extra bucks

 

So, what is your 0-60?

 

At what point does the stock clutch not take the power and you need an upgrade??
Rolling into the throttle or stomping on the drag strip... seems like 100+ hp from stock would strain the clutch??

 

"0 hp,no motor,looks good murdered out"......sounds like a Honda

 

One of the bigger or longer term players will have to answer that one( Stock clutch durability). Jan recommended the FX300 and flywheel at the same time as the other parts so I never had a chance to flog the stock one.

 

Clocked it today at right above 5 seconds (5.2 give or take a tenth or two)

If I didn't spin wheels all through first (R-Compounds) I'm confident I could break 5.

 

I know disappointing right!!!
Awaiting parts from Jan to continue build!!
Serves me right for not doing pistons on a twincharge setup...

 

When I pulled my stock clutch at around 30k miles it still had a LOT of life. The limitation on clutches isn't really HP (To a point at least... ), it's torque. I upgraded my clutch to a Clutchmasters Stage 4 (6 Puck Ceramic) when we pulled the engine for some other stuff. Works great!

 

Right on... thanks Rusty...
Done high-jacking thread now

 

Whats the stage 4 clutch like compared to stock when setting off? Is it an on/off clutch or not too different from stock?

 

stage 4 , (4puck) ON/OFF
you have to know where its going to engage.... because it just goes BAM
I drive mine in stop/go traffic but it requires more "thinking"

the 6puck is more forgiving and can be slightly slipped


stage 3 is Kevlar and much easier to drive and should hold these cars

Stage 2 is Kevlar and can be slipped more

 

I Concur On The Stage 3 Doctor

When it's cold it's a little on/off, after the first few engagememts, the pressure and everything else is very similar to stock.

 

Hmm, I didn't even think about that, the Stage 4 is available in both 4 and 6 puck configurations. I thought we put the 6 in, but I never saw it. Did you order a 4?

http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.p...v_products.tpl

And yes, it's not quite on off, but it's pretty grabby.

 

Jan,
I've tried searching thru the threads but havnt found anything on this adjustable cam gear... is this something that comes with your head, sold seperate, and does anyone have one of these???

Was this the key to making the 259whp to stay on topic??

 

Back in my old Chevy SB days, you got an adjustable cam gear to degree in the cam for what you wanted out of the motor. Advance the cam a few degrees for more torque down low, retard the cam for more top end. Usually the motor builder would run the motor on the dyno, and adjust it to your needs, then it's locked in. Maybe Jan has some secret recipe or use for it.
I will say that when I was younger, my friend had a Porsche that had an adjustable gear, and we would move it around and could feel a slight move in the powerband. I can't say this is something that I would ever recommend anyone do hap-hazardly though.

Maybe the master can chime in and reveal the secret.

 

That's my point. I 'm getting right at 5-5.2 with a mere 190 whp. Unless we can get more rubber under the fenders, any additional horses is only good for dyno dragging and high speed (75+) track racing.

 

Well, I would respectfully disagree. Yes a true 0-60 may be similar(I'd like to know how everyone is measuring this, a wristwatch doesn't count) but from a 10mph roll on the results are drastically different. It's the initial wheelspin that's the equalizer, and that is where driver skill comes in, but once around that, it is a whole different ball game.
And I do agree with Rusty, people who have this much into their cars don't mind changing tires every 5000 miles or so, so R-compounds would make a huge difference as well.
As I said before, have driven my car for 30k as a JCW210, and now with 259whp, there is absolutely no comparison.

 

I'd LOVE to see you pull a 5 second 0-60 in a MINI with 35 HP over stock... The GP's don't get 5 second 0-60's.

 

I can concur what he says. When Jan handed me the keys to the 2.0L Stroker GP, he never mentioned that on/off switch er....clutch he has. I managed to get reversed out of Dannys parking lot without stalling the car and embarassing myself. After driving it for about 5 minutes on the street it got a little bit easier to launch, although I would not recommend it for stop and go traffic!!

My almost 240HP MCS has the Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch and it works real well.

 

I'll let you take the heat, I was trying to be polite.

 

here is a formula which is pretty accurate............


weight of car in kilogrammes
0-60 time = ---------------------------
maximum bhp of car * 0.9

I would say this.... ihoboy is in rare company

Porsche Carrera 4s (Manufacturer's quoted 0-60 time 5.1 seconds)
weight 1470Kg, Max Power 316bhp, Calculated 0-60 time 5.2 seconds

Porsche Carrera 4 (Manufacturer's quoted 0-60 time 5 seconds)
weight 1405Kg, Max Power 316bhp, Calculated 0-60 time 4.9 seconds

Vehicle with Manufacturer's 0-60
(or result of our tests*)BHPCalc
0-60Error
FactorPorsche Carrera (0-60 in 5.1s)3164.7-8%Porsche GT3 (0-60 in 4.3s)3764.1-5%Aston Vantage Volante V12 Convertible (0-60 in 5.2s)4205.0-5%Porsche Boxster (0-60 in 6.4s)2286.2-3%BMW M3 (0-60 in 5.1s)3385.0-3%Toyota Toyota MR2 Spyder (0-60 in 8s)1387.9-2%TVR S (0-60 in 4s)3103.9-1%Porsche Carrera 4 (0-60 in 5s)3164.9-1%Porsche Boxster S (0-60 in 5.7s)2605.6-1%BMW M3 CSL (0-60 in 4.3s *)3554.31%Porsche Carrera 4s (0-60 in 5.1s)3165.21%Alpha V6 24V Lusso Coupe (0-60 in 6.3s)2406.53%Audi 1.8 (225) Quattro Coupe (0-60 in 6.6s)2256.94%Ford RS (0-60 in 6.4s)2126.74%BMW Mini Cooper S (0-60 in 7.4s)1637.85%Porsche 944 S2 (0-60 in 6.7s)2077.05%Porsche 944 Turbo SE (0-60 in 5.7s)2586.05%Alpha 2.0 JTS Lusso Coupe (0-60 in 8.4s)1658.96%Porsche Cayenne S (0-60 in 7s)3357.46%Porsche Cayenne Turbo (0-60 in 5.4s)4505.87%

 

tuls says he needs more than a 1/4 mile to show the power of his car. 0-60 is a magazine derived, pointless metric. it's heavily weighted towards traction and gearing, not power (hint....some maufacturers purposefully have put in bad ratio spreads to guarantee 60 can be hit in 2nd gear making for good numbers, but a poor road car)

 

Agreed... Look at other cars the same way... ie... the Toyota Supra...
0-60... good luch getting traction...
But 5th gear pulls on the freeway from 120-170... holy crap!!!

Same i found in the Mini... Even when I was TC first wasnt the crazy gear and being FWD, I wasnt racing many people from a dig... Especially since AZ seems to be run by Evo's and STi's... but a 3rg gear pull, goodbye evo!!! and I was only guessing 250-270hp... he dyno'd at 320whp...