High performance clutch and flywheel. What should I expect from this mod? Would it increase the life of the tranny or would I increase the wear? Any recommendations on brands? Thinking of going with Fidenza/UUC Flywheel and Spec 2 Clutch. I would like better performance without sacrificing reliability.

Your input is much appreciated. Thanks!

Randy

 

There's so much labor involved in installing them, though. . . Not easy to get to. I would wait until you have to install the clutch, or (knock on wood) have to replace the tranny. The MC already has a much lighter flywheel than the MCS, so you'll only be saving 2-3 lbs, which is still something, so. . . maybe a performance advantage. A grabbier clutch would be nice, though.

I heard the whole expense for parts and installation would be about $1500 for a clutch / flywheel job. For that you can get a cylinder head port and polish with a schrick cam, fully installed. Much better, in my opinion.

Check with a good MINI mechanic. My 2 cents.

-Steve

 

Sandtoast500, a ported/polished head with a Schrick cam and install it all for $1500 ? Do you live in Mexico?

 

FYI, Ranzo's tranny went. That is why he is looking into this mod.

 

yeah the dealer actually lied to me. He said I needed a new transmission. My bill came up to 5Gs. I wanted a seconded opinion and I took it to a good Euro mechanic. Turns out that it was just my clutch and flywheel. Said it would be about 7 hours labour $90/hour. So if you are out of warranty, DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER!

 

have to ask do you have the MCS or just MC.. the 8.5 is for the MC and is sometime shipped to be placed in the MCS.. If you put it in the MCS .. it will be loud and work for a while but in time it will strip the Ring gear.. since the Flywheel itselff is just a tick smaller than the one made for the MCS.

If interested im currently on my second Flywheel. The first one was suppose to be for the MCS that wieghed 11 lbs. I stripped the ring gear on it.. after having it removed and replaced. I both weighed and Measured it and found out it was the one for the MC which wieghed 8.1 lbs (stripped ring gear) and it was 1/4 inch smaller than the replacement Flywheel.

 

Close. . . Colorado.

$250 for a used head (low = ebay deals to be had and dealer takeoffs)
$450 schrick cam
$500 P&P (shop around to different places)
$500 install (someone you really trust, like Randy Webb)
-$200 sell the other used head
=
$1500, give or take a couple hundred, that's about it.


Good luck with the flywheel clutch change!

 

What about drivability?

For performance without decreased drivability, reliability and more noise maybe consider a Quaife differential.

Lightened flywheel and race clutch look attractive but will grab alot quicker and make more noise- this is ok on the track but not so fun for daily driving. Talk to Randy Webb at webbmotorsports.com or Eric at Helix13.com about what it is like to drive a MINI with upgraded flywheel and clutch.

I added quaife only and my MCS shifts just like stock but I have better traction. It's quiet and smooth but doesn't have the wheelspin like a stock MCS can have.

 

We're not talking MCS here. But I am interested in how a LS holds up in the Coop.

 

Thanks Goin440. it wasnt noted in his post or profile that i could see if it was MC or MCS.

As for drivablity even through i have the MCS. with the Heavy Runflats and S-Lites. it was drivable for Dailey use. just had to get use to where the clutch started to grab and drive accorrdingly... The stock set up would grab at about 1/4" from the floor while the set up your going to doesnt grab till about 3" from the top. First time drivers would give a little gas and start letting out the clutch. This allow it to rev way up so they let off the gas while still letting out on the clutch and basicly would pop the clutch giving it no gas at all. This caused stalling, jerking an overall bad experience where people thought it was bad for day to day driving. Then once i ditched the S-lite set up and went to LW wheels and tires. you couldnt tell the diff from running the Heavy 28lb fly wheel to the 8.5 lbs flywheel.

 

You guys gotta pay attention to the forum, it is Cooper "NON S" Ranzo's car is a MC not a MCS.

 

Thanks everyone for your input.

I don't think I would mind a little noise, if it increases the fun factor. I like a bit of wheel spin too. I don't think there's a LS for the Cooper is there?

So I might stall lots then hey? What is the weight of the stock flywheel for the Cooper? Spec has a flywheel that's 9.5 pounds. Would that make the car more drivable then an 8.5 pound flywheel?

Oh and is stalling bad for your car or is that a myth?

 

The MC flywheel is 17 lbs -- actually 17 and a few tenths.

 

The Quaife is available for both MC and MCS so the better traction will help in either case.

http://helix13.com/mini/products/suspension-chasis
Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing Differential HMS 7001 Quaife MINI Cooper S $1195.00
HMS 7002 Quaife MINI Cooper $1170.00
This A.T.B. differential enables your MINI to put the power to the ground in nearly all conditions. The Quaife unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage whether on the track or on the street. All Quaife A.T.B. differentials have a lifetime warranty.


Of course having more power isn't going to hurt. Still, a modded MC has more than enough power to spin wheels. Key is light weight for the MC- light rims, maybe light brakes, light tires but sticky rubber.

If you do only street driving then a lighter flywheel and race clutch could get tiresome. If you do alot of track driving then it could be worth the cost and effort.

If you have a local track see if you can find some car that has a light weight flywheel and racing clutch and go for a ride on the road. See what you think. Stock cars have a heavy flywheel to help smooth things out when you shift gears- they are durable, not too costly, quiet, and smooth for daily use.

 

Maybe I should have rephrased...

I'm interested in how the tranny holds up in a LS equiped MC.

 

Would this ATBD help strengthen the transmission?

 

Okay better question: ATBD VS Driving school

Transmission is out, new clutch and flywheel is on the way, seems like its the best time to install... Looks like an awesome part to have on the spec list but maybe I should invest on the driver behind the wheel? What do you think guys?

 

To avoid blowing out the clutch or transmission again, probably best to go to driving school and seek some professional advice.

The amount of power you're pulling in the Cooper (around 150hp?) isn't quite enough to break traction if you have good sticky summer tires, so I think the money is better spent learning how to drive better.

 

My cooper has decent power mods and when I was running the stock little tires I had traction issues, but when I upgraded my rubber they all went away. Thats cheaper than the LS and has more advantages