Skipping rotors for the time being?
Skipping rotors for the time being?
So I'm thinking I should upgrade my brakes before a 2-day track event next month. Right now it's all stock. After this event, I'll only be doing street and autocross.
I was thinking...
- tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit: $119
- SS brake lines: $119
- ATE sooper blue fluid: $15
- Ferodo DS2500: $139 + $142 (front + rear)
- ATE slotted rotors: $118 + $78 (f + r)
But damn, that adds up to past $700. My "check brakes" light came on the other day, but just checked and there's plenty of pad + rotor left, at least for the time being. Could I skip the rotors right now and replace down the line when the stockers are shot. Should I? Cheaper or better alternatives to the pads and rotors? Skip the caliper bushings and stainless steel lines?
After this track stuff in early May it'll just be autocross and street, so I'm not looking for awe-inspiring performance. Just don't want to die. I'd like to do it all in one go, but I'm not sure I can afford.
TIA.
I was thinking...
- tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit: $119
- SS brake lines: $119
- ATE sooper blue fluid: $15
- Ferodo DS2500: $139 + $142 (front + rear)
- ATE slotted rotors: $118 + $78 (f + r)
But damn, that adds up to past $700. My "check brakes" light came on the other day, but just checked and there's plenty of pad + rotor left, at least for the time being. Could I skip the rotors right now and replace down the line when the stockers are shot. Should I? Cheaper or better alternatives to the pads and rotors? Skip the caliper bushings and stainless steel lines?
After this track stuff in early May it'll just be autocross and street, so I'm not looking for awe-inspiring performance. Just don't want to die. I'd like to do it all in one go, but I'm not sure I can afford.
TIA.
drop the lines and the stiffening kit if your autocrossings. Just bumps your class for nothing. The gain from good brake fluid flush with new pads and disc will be great.
if you discs and pads need a change get it done before that will save you. Also flush the fluid before and be prepared to flush it at the event.
I find students use the brakes too much and boil the fluid.
if you discs and pads need a change get it done before that will save you. Also flush the fluid before and be prepared to flush it at the event.
I find students use the brakes too much and boil the fluid.
drop the lines and the stiffening kit if your autocrossings. Just bumps your class for nothing. The gain from good brake fluid flush with new pads and disc will be great.
if you discs and pads need a change get it done before that will save you. Also flush the fluid before and be prepared to flush it at the event.
I find students use the brakes too much and boil the fluid.
if you discs and pads need a change get it done before that will save you. Also flush the fluid before and be prepared to flush it at the event.
I find students use the brakes too much and boil the fluid.
).And I probably will end up overusing my brakes as this is my first track day.
OK, and now I'm thinking TSW rotors and Portfield R4-S (or maybe R4) pads. Ordering from TSW would save on shipping for some other stuff..
Assuming this stuff is as good or better than the ATE and Ferodos?
Assuming this stuff is as good or better than the ATE and Ferodos?
Check out mc2 the magazine and or go to autoxcooper.com. They have an article in there that Dustin co-wrote that gives you good advice on a small budget to get your car ready for autox. Don't buy expensive rotors they won't stop you any faster than OEM replacement. Just get them turned when you get your new pads. If your setting your car up for autox you will have to compromise on brake pads. There isn't anything that you can buy that will satisfy you at the track. The so-called street-track pad will not be sufficient at the track. I would e-mail autoxcooper and ask him for his recommendations. He knows what he is talking about (no I don't work for him-never even met him.). I learned about him through the article in mc2. Brake fluid is most certainly needed and the right pads are a must. Make sure your getting the best, those with it will be the ones your behind at events. I only spent $225.00 getting my car ready. Spanking great brakes going deep into the corners!



I tried the expensive OEM size rotors last year and had to throw them away after a few months when a front decided to crack. My current view on rotors is to go for the cheapo raybestos replacement rotors from advance auto parts and not feel so bad when I have to throw them out.
Jason
Jason
Never turn the rotars, you loose heat mass and will effect your braking. Just throw them and put in new ones.
Always use the cheapest rotars possible. I used to track my ITR with 30 dollars discs.
Always use the cheapest rotars possible. I used to track my ITR with 30 dollars discs.
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The rotor's the rotor's the rotor. I won't work any better regardless of who's name is on the box or what you pay for it. Some minor enhancement from the slots or holes but nothing worthy of the expense over some generic blanks. If you buy cheap you won't feel so bad throwing them away after a couple of events.
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