whoa....

oposite lock anyone...

is that you or someone else? Is that a Lotus advert on the hood?

 

here everyday! Suspension tuning is such an art. I just wish I were an artist!

 

Brilliant

 

Wow, didn't think this was street legal. And "backroads" in Emeryville?

 

sells stuff for Lotus cars. My next car- Lotus Exige! Ok, goodnight for real this time!

 

You havn't felt acceleration until you have driven a turbocharged elise! Give us a call if your interested.

-Brian

 

supercharged version of the Exige in Europe?

 

Sorry for going off topic, but do you have any more pics of that car?

 

Sweet....

yeah, well, Mandella Parkway is about as rural as it gets for backroads in that town...

 

Sounds beyond cool...
I wish I was smaller so I could fit in an elise

 

More photos here: http://www.baybridgemotors.com/Photo...et_1/index.htm

There was a thread about the car: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=33215
The honda-tech forum that is linked had some great pictures, which unfortunately seem to be no longer online.

 

Do you do an S2 turbo conversion? Standard engine or totally new?
Ive got an S1 with the Honda/ JR SC (round 300bhp) and I can pretty much keep it with the Porsche Cup Car guys. Plus its road legal...well in my country anyway

 

No, basically everything but. The internals are not touched, but the kit includes intake, manifold, exhaust, ecu, injectors, intercooler(with idle fan and uber-trick ducting), and optional gauges/accusump. It runs 275hp without a tune.

It will stay dead even with a 05 GSXR 750 from a stop(on a track of coarse).

OK, now stay on topic!

-Brian

 

Wurd

Thats sick. I need to meet up with those boys at Bay Bridge...

 

How reliable??

 

Jacques is cool. But I thought you said earlier that you knew them...

 

Some have had oil starvation problems on the track(because they pull around 1.4Gs on street tires), but a pressurized oil system(accusump) fixes that. You also need to keep boost down while warming up since the 2ZZGE motor is aluminum.

Basically, you have to be smart with it. It isn't like our rock of a motor.

-Brian

 

I do, but only from driving fast in Emeryville and via email...
Ive never actually met or hung out with them...
Sounds like they are even cooler in real life

 

The guys at BBM are cool and understand the MINI and our needs. I had them install my suspension parts and am very happy with their work.

Come to the pulley party on 5/27 and meet them.

 

I'm just back from the Peru National Tour and I'm extremely happy with the Webb Extreme Bar I put on about a week ago. The Webb bar replaced an early 20.6mm RDR/Helix bar. The car felt very planted and linear. I think at least part of this was the elimination of any give in the sway bar bushings. It was also very easy to adjust. I still think the Webb bar needs more wall thickness if it is to be used with any upgraded front bar.

On a side note I travel to and from my long distance autocrosses on some OEM 15" Take Off's and prior to the, easy to adjust, Webb Bar I just left the bar in it's normal autocross position. While my regular street wheels and tires felt good like this, the OEM 15's felt Extremely loose. The easy fix for this is now to just back way off on the sway bar stiffness when I change my tires.

 

just got my WM rear sway put on yesterday. So far so good, but I have yet to push the car to see how it responds...

 

I forgot to follow-up jlm...

The endlinks and the typical bent ends of a bar determine resitance to torque - as I wrote above your question. So if one is shorter it will resist more torque. There are other problems here too, as I let my mind wander about these things. If one link is a lot different in length, threshold brakaing and accelerating could be a little interesting; the bar will twist asymetrically in either case...I wouldn't find this funny under threshold braking. Finally, if the bar is not set in the horizontal position at ride height - in other words the bar ends are pointing up or down, as the bar twists, the endlinks no longer transmit or resist force in vertical - the forces become tangential. To my way of thinking, this robs the swaybar of its potential resistance...unless you plan to dilute its action or strengthen it with an up or down orientation to fine tune balance. This is also true for in the first example where one link is shorter than the other; in this case we have asymetric twist, and, non-vertical resistance or transmission of force.

I know plenty of folks set bars in different ways. I'm simply triggering some thinking here...know what you are doing and why. Understand the benefit(s) and the trade-off(s).

 

interesting. So is your WM extreme bar perfectly parrellel to the ground when your sitting on a flat surface? Brian set mine with the red ends slightly downward pointed.

 

Tis not installed yet - this weekend hopefully. The stock bar's orientation is slightly down and I'll begin with that. This is probably a compromise - like many. I'll also have all the springs and dampers out too...I can check for contact so long as I can simulate ride height correctly...

EDIT: ride height doesn't matter. I can check the full range of motion so long as I can bend the bar without knocking the car off the jacks.

 

The links broken here, some people had a diagram on how to install the end segments of this bar. Anyone have a copy locally that they can send me? PM me

thanks