Is the creaking the same sort of noise one gets while raising and lower the car with the jack?

 

It's a lot louder and only coming from the right side. When they did the install they had to remove the right rear strut and loosen the subframe, so I'm going to check those points next.

 

I would just order 2 extra #5's and plop them in

 

You might check the re-installation procedure. some suspension components cannot be torqued completely while the car is on a lift. If this is done, suspension components will bind when the full weight of the car is on these. Think about a rubber bushing that is completely torqued with the suspension arms in full droop. Then, when the car is lowered, these bushings bind. This can actually be a big enough deal to throw corner weights of rather noticably.

 

This crossed my mind too, but I haven't been able to find anything about the rear subframe being torqued under load or not. I've had the struts in and out before without any problem and Randy's guys didn't mess with anything else.

BTW, The bar didn't come with any installation instructions but that could have been because I had Randy install it.

 

...perhaps a bent rear tailing arm...

 

So what is it that you think is missing? Nothing was dropped from the original cad drawing; it may just be the angle the picture was taken at. This is a more secure setup that the prototype by far and there is no movement in the endlink-droplink area. As for the creaking, on my car, the heim joints needed to be broken in before the creaking would stop. It would make a popping sound every once and a while when you go over a speed bump, or corner hard. I don’t have anymore squeaks, pops, whistles, or wizzbangs, and haven’t for a while. I think the problem on this car was that I didn’t tighten the locking collars enough when I installed the bar, so it moved horizontally and was clicking against the spring. My locking collars came loose after the first install of the prototype, but once they where tightened the second time, they have not budged.

-Brian

 

Hi Brian,

I think folks are thinking there should be (part #5) slide plates on the inside and the outside of the endlinks.

Steve

 

Thanks correct. As I see it there must be a #5 on the inside or else that bolt could break. At the least it will move and most likely bend. Figure you have about 1/4" of play without the inside #5

 

Poping Hiem joints? Might want to look for a better sorce on these.
Brian. If you do look at this picture and the close up I posted you will see that the inside part #5 is not there. It's shown in the cad, but not shown in the parts list, at least the ones posted on this thread. I would imagine that this was an oversight in the transfer on the two.

 

Yah I win

 

Well, I'm 99.9% sure I found the source of the creaking sound

It's not the Hiem joints, my suspects, or any of the suggestions presented so far but I want to be 100% sure before say for sure

 

I see what you are saying about the square insert washer on the back. You guys must have misinterpreted what part #5 was for. It is used as a guide for the marks, as well as a surface the lock washer can brace against. The circular washer on the backside of the end link is the other portion used to keep the bolt centered in the slider area. I see how it may seem that the bolt might move or bend since the circular washer is not fixed to the slider, but it won’t. That is because the bolt joining the end link and the drop link is a pivot point. When the shock compresses, the entire bar will pivot on the sub frame, and in turn pivot at the heim joint. Take a look at this illustration.

 

Brian,
.........

Wait, I may have spoken to quickly. Just how does that washer on the link side center the bolt in that slot? I only see a flat washer there with nothing protruding into that slot.

That drawing shows two #5s, no?
(I keep adding to this post)
I don't think we have misinterpreted part #5. If you say that it's not there to center the bolt then you need to re-think that.

 

seems simple enough to add another "Tee slot" washer, or at least switch sides with the flat washer.

 

I agree I think the t-slot washer is much stronger & more stable than a flat washer.
Should be a very simple fix. Just add a t-washer to the inside on both sides.

 

...you all have much better eyes than I do.

Brian, adding another slotted square washer can't hurt???


jlm - I responded to you above...I don't know what you are referring to.

 

Again, with an oversize slot, you need to have something on both sides to support and center the bolt within the slot.

Maybe you should take this time to consult the original designer...

 

I might even go as far as adding an extra square washer. I'm not sure what the loading on the bolt might be, but allowing it to cantliver out as such in a dynamic loading condition may pose some problems.

I notice that your using solidworks am I correct? Did you use cosmos to run an Finite Element Anyalisis on it? If not you may wish to ensure where the weak link might be. What size bolt and what grade are you using there? One can only hope it's a grade 5 and not a 3

 

I will talk to the manufacturer about adding one, but it may be unnecessary. He has been building these types of bars for Porsches for many years, so we trust his design. But, if it makes the customer more likely to buy the bar, we will add the extra piece.

-Brian

 

Keep in mind too that adding another #5 piece (given its thickness compared to the thin circular washer) will change the angle slightly at which the drop link resides in the rear suspension. I'm not sure if this would affect how the sway bar or the suspension works, but it could be part of the overall equation in the design. In addition, on Brian's prototype bar -- which did not have the square #5 piece, only a circular washer -- the stiffness setting at the end link did not budge at all after a full day of track time and racing at the Laguna Seca event (a track which place rather extreme loads and demands on the suspension...), and a few thousand miles of driving on the street to boot.

 

Im not really worried about the thickness since the circular washer wont need to be there if there is a #5 peice in its place. Mica is right though. I spent 3 track days(2 days of second creek(R.I.P.) and one day at laguna seca), and over 5000 miles on the bar so far, and there is 0 ware on the bolt.

-Brian

 

meb: I'm still trying to get a clear moment to think this out.

 

I suppose I could run to school and get on solidworks and cosmos if anyone needed me to. If I knew the lengths and sizes of the bolt stuff, I could run it through and see if it was really needed. I would need to know materials and such, you can pm me if you wish. This would just be an educational thing nothing more, you could then see what you needed if you wish.

 

This vendor has the right attitude.
I think his product will be a success.