On the '05 and '06 models, not dropping the subframe to remove the swaybar would preserve your alignment.

 

Also, on the convertibles, there is a center subframe bolt that makes things really interesting.

Randy

 

Dang, glad I sold mine with that type of supply around .

As I said early-on, while this bar seems much more expensive at first glance, take the H-Sport Comp, add end-links, and the price delta is really fairly mimimal. Crap, throw-in free shipping from WMS this weekend also! Randy, I think you should consider making free shipping a monthly thing for the last weekend of every month .

 

Yeah, but then I wouldn't sell anything any other time of the month!

Randy

 

Ah, then now I see! I have one of the original or classic new MINI's (in reference to your 'superiority' thread ). Then by all means, hack away!

 

BINGO! Predicitabilty of cash flow is a very good thing. The other 3 weeks for your Parties, and to handle your many inquiries... Just kidding a little, but it is appealing though...

Look forward to chatting with you Randy. Would love to hear what supsension specs you would recommend for Laguna Seca, among other stuff...

 

Definitely stiffer rear for Laguna Seca - I was surprised at the amount of understeer there. Of course, it will change with temperature. I'd also run a little less toe out, as there aren't any real quick transitions there. Awesome track though! I think with a muffler that will let us stay on the gas, and a proper set up for the track, I'll be able to turn 1:42's in the Mule at the end of this season. I can't wait to get back!

Randy

 

For those who have this sway bar already, can someone explain how the end of the new drop link hooks up the the trailing arm?

I was told to use the original nut/bolt, but looking at the OEM drop link I cannot figure out how this would be.

 

You'll get the bolt, you just reuse the original nut.

Hope that helps!
Randy

 

Very cool, I was feeling like a dumba** all day trying to figure out how that original bolt was removed from the OEM drop link.

 

These did the trick

Thanks Randy!

 

Last Thursday evening Brian installed the new WMS rear swaybar on my Mini -- and on early Sat morning when the roads were completely free of traffic I had a chance to put it through a good testing session with some quick driving up very twisty, technical canyons. (currently the end links are set at about 2/3 of total stiffness)

The performance from this bar is simply beyond my (high) expectations! The car finally handles like I want it to, with neutral handling around even the tightest switchbacks and very controllable, progessive rotation as you apply throttle through a corner. One of the truly remarkable effects of the WMS bar (compared to previous my Mini Madness bar) was how much less front tire squeal occurs when attacking corners -- the handling was exceptional even with the current Dunlop Wintersport M3s I am running...so I can't wait to hit the track with my summer tires! It's kinda hard to describe, but you can really "feel" the car transfer traction and weight in a very balanced fashion. Without a doubt I would say this is the single best mod to date on my Mini, and it was beyond well worth it to replace my previous aftermarket bar with the WMS bar.

For those of you "on the fence" thinking you don't need one because you already have an aftermarket bar, I can tell you that the difference / improvement of the WMS bar is significant and immediately noticeable.

BTW I found the 2/3 setting to be about right for street use, but I would probably go even stiffer for track use -- especially one like Laguna Seca (the only track I have driven) that induces a fair amount of understeer.

I hope this helps!

 

Saying which bar you had previously would make this statement more meaningful.

 

No problem -- I stated it in the second paragraph, but was not specific. I had a 22mm Mini Madness bar before, which is fairly similar in design to other bars on the market.

 

Any new installs people want to share their thoughts about? I have a 15% pully and the Alta intake, but I was thinking about a suspension mod being the next step. I want to balance horspeower and torque mods, with other areas.

 

ogrady I agree that a balanced approach is best, and think that too many people focus exclusively on power, while ignoring equally important changes to the suspension, brakes, and drivetrain.

For me the single best mod to this date is the WMS rear swaybar -- it finally made the car balanced and rotate around its center with neutral , progressive, and controllable handling feel.

After a pulley and intake (with plugs/wires), I did a Schroth harness, front brake pads and fluid (IMO an essential mod -- what's the use of having power if you can't stop consistently?), rear sway bar, and wheels/tires. At last Saturday's pulley party in Denver with Randy and Brian, Mr. Webb installed a short shifter, which I am also really diggin' because I can now shift more quickly with a more positive feel. I have also found that it helps to facilitate rev matching while braking and down shifting. Next on the list once I can afford it are front brakes, front camber plates, and rear control arms. On the power side, eventually I'd like to do a WMS exhaust, Unichip, and GRS intercooler (to help prevent heat soak/power losses across longer track runs).

Long answer to your question...but yes I agree that suspension/chassis mods are as important and necessary as power upgrades to maintain a balanced, unified feel to the car.

 

Looking for more impressions from others.

 

Randy,

Do you have a current supply or is there a big production lag time now?

 

yea, really!!

::
i would like to hear more on tha body chatter, has that been fixed or is it still an issue??

 

Joker-
I have only heard of 1 car with the body chatter. That was fixed with some remachined mounting hardware and all is good on that guys car now. Mine is perfect after 3 months of use. I am actually gonna soften it up for the next autocross as it is so stiff I get big time oversteer if I don't really stay on the gas!

 

I've had mine on for about a month and a half now. My reaction is nothing but .

No new noises, handles great, no complaints at all. I have mine set on the 4th like line (like Webb shows on his web page) ~118% of stock, at least thats what he told me. Very precictive handeling, one rear tire does come off the ground (on ocassion) when intering driveways or parking lots.....

Worth the money

Nik

 

very well,
wuz that part of a fix that Randy has now adjusted on tha new units or do we need to do it when we receive them......also there wuz an issue w/tha body needin' to be cut to get tha bar to sit properly....

 

I'll chime in ....

He did my install at the Norfolk, VA pulley party (with a *bunch* of other stuff!).

After 2500+ miles....

All I can say is awesome! I didn't realize just how good this bar would be. By far, of the $3100 spent that weekend, the best (and if I had to pick only one to do over) was the $475 on the Extreme Bar. No rattles, and everyone I've shown it to loves the easy adjustability of it.

I'm going to start looking at either auto-x or track days to really see this shine- but the twisty roads in the area are a lot safer now...

 

Randy had the bearing blocks modified and it fixed the very minor rubbing issue we were having.

I haven't heard of anyone needing to modify their car's body.

We've had our WMES for a couple hours longer than jfunkmd and have been well pleased with it ... yes, I'd do it again