Suspension Has anyone tried the Megan Racing Coilovers?
Originally Posted by RallyMINI
cool you guys rock
That return plan is definitely a plus in my book


Expect more for our cars.
Steve, I've been following this thread soaking up the bits of info.....please call me or email me so I can get the latest specs on this setup so our site is accurate and up to date. I don't want to mislead anyone..
ac,'
ac,'
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1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville TN
Shocks
Originally Posted by Megan Racing
Whoa whoa whoa... different spring rates?! This is the first time I've heard bout this one. Who said what to who bout what now?! I'm working on a Track-Series, but I need to start a thread about what spring rates would be worthwhile for you guys.
But seriously.. who said this?!
But seriously.. who said this?!

Originally Posted by lnsminiwrench
Tell me why i should buy your shocks over koni bilst lita etc
What's the point of having 32 settings if you need to go over 8 before you notice anything?
Another item is that our dampers have 100% completely independent adjustments. If you adjust ride-height it will not effect suspension travel, or spring rate; if you adjust pre-load it will not affect ride-height.
And last but not least.. they already feature a Camber Plate for the front. Which as most of you know can be an extra $400.00+
Ask around... from PEOPLE WHO HAVE USED THEM. And ask if they recommend them or not. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
Originally Posted by Megan Racing
First off, cause they're not just shocks. They are a full Coil-Over suspension kit that has everything you need in one shot. They feature linear springs rather than progressive; the dampers feature a single-adjustable monotube damper which has 32-settings with a noticable difference.
What's the point of having 32 settings if you need to go over 8 before you notice anything?
Another item is that our dampers have 100% completely independent adjustments. If you adjust ride-height it will not effect suspension travel, or spring rate; if you adjust pre-load it will not affect ride-height.
And last but not least.. they already feature a Camber Plate for the front. Which as most of you know can be an extra $400.00+
Ask around... from PEOPLE WHO HAVE USED THEM. And ask if they recommend them or not. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
What's the point of having 32 settings if you need to go over 8 before you notice anything?
Another item is that our dampers have 100% completely independent adjustments. If you adjust ride-height it will not effect suspension travel, or spring rate; if you adjust pre-load it will not affect ride-height.
And last but not least.. they already feature a Camber Plate for the front. Which as most of you know can be an extra $400.00+
Ask around... from PEOPLE WHO HAVE USED THEM. And ask if they recommend them or not. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

Is it possible to get a rough guideline for initial settings of these coil-overs as to get my Mini's stance and ride in the right ball park...hoping to save the amount of times I will have to jack my car up and down by trial/error...
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Yes...I'm eagerly awaiting delivery tomorrow...
Is it possible to get a rough guideline for initial settings of these coil-overs as to get my Mini's stance and ride in the right ball park...hoping to save the amount of times I will have to jack my car up and down by trial/error...
Is it possible to get a rough guideline for initial settings of these coil-overs as to get my Mini's stance and ride in the right ball park...hoping to save the amount of times I will have to jack my car up and down by trial/error...
And voila!!! No guess work on how much they're going to sag because the height adjustment doesn't even touch the spring perches. It's precise every-time... no guess work.
Originally Posted by meb
Sid, when you get them, PM me. I'll give you my phone number and I'll let you know where I began and what settings to try first. Easy stuff...the second time around

I will
Originally Posted by NokturnalMCS
For some odd reason my subscription for this thread stopped, dunno why.
Either way, sorry for the delay.
So this weekend I was at the Mini Dealership getting my MCS serviced and I priced out a few things. End links, Rear mounts just to start. Expect these parts to begin development in the near future.
The extension ***** are in and available on our website in three different lengths. 110mm, 200mm and 250mm. Of course they can easily be trimmed down to size for you guys to customise.

The rear 8Kg springs are now available on the website. However, the 6Kg springs will be coming in later on for the fronts as well. We have an 8Kg spring that will fit but the dampers have to be set between 24-32 for them to still be in tune for the front. These too are available on the website.
Either way, sorry for the delay.
So this weekend I was at the Mini Dealership getting my MCS serviced and I priced out a few things. End links, Rear mounts just to start. Expect these parts to begin development in the near future.
The extension ***** are in and available on our website in three different lengths. 110mm, 200mm and 250mm. Of course they can easily be trimmed down to size for you guys to customise.

The rear 8Kg springs are now available on the website. However, the 6Kg springs will be coming in later on for the fronts as well. We have an 8Kg spring that will fit but the dampers have to be set between 24-32 for them to still be in tune for the front. These too are available on the website.
*****...
Originally Posted by CynMini
How are these new adjusters working? Are they able to get around the HK amp?
Not true!! I bought and already have my set, I just haven't had a chance to install them yet. I bought the longest because all lengths were the same price and this way I have more flexibility re where to place the *****.....since I haven't decided where to put them yet.
I have no idea! I don't consider myself a slouch in the do-it-yourself department but I confess I have no idea how these things mate up. If you look at that pic above, the large end is the one that mates up to the dampers, but they don't screw on - it's smooth on the inside. There are two allen screws, one in the smaller diameter part and one in the larger. The screw in the larger part apparently holds the collar to the damper, but I can't figure out how the inner business works.....I definitely imagined something different. I'm sure it's as simple as can be and I'll do a Homer Simpson "Doh" when I figure it out, but it's still a mystery to me so far. Oh, and in case it's not blatently obvious at this point, no - they did not come with istructions.....I imagine the feeling was that this is so simple any dope can figure it out.....apparently not quite true.
Originally Posted by kurvhugr
I have no idea! I don't consider myself a slouch in the do-it-yourself department but I confess I have no idea how these things mate up. If you look at that pic above, the large end is the one that mates up to the dampers, but they don't screw on - it's smooth on the inside. There are two allen screws, one in the smaller diameter part and one in the larger. The screw in the larger part apparently holds the collar to the damper, but I can't figure out how the inner business works.....I definitely imagined something different. I'm sure it's as simple as can be and I'll do a Homer Simpson "Doh" when I figure it out, but it's still a mystery to me so far. Oh, and in case it's not blatently obvious at this point, no - they did not come with istructions.....I imagine the feeling was that this is so simple any dope can figure it out.....apparently not quite true.
Originally Posted by CynMini
Its little things like that, that really make me wonder! I mean how hard is it to write up a page of instructions, xerox a bunch off and throw one in the box? And then they wonder why people aren't buying them. I can't even get a straight answer on how these things work. Im just a little pissy tonight, sorry.
Sorry Steve [Steve from Megan that is], I can't noodle this one through without a visual aid. I bet I could if I was holding an adjuster in one hand and a damper in the other, but the coilovers are already on the car so that's not so easy to do. I could figure this out though if the parts came with a diagram showing what attaches to what and how it's done (and how to cut/shorten/reassemble as well please). As it is, I don't feel like going to the effort to get at the top of the dampers until I feel confident that I know -- in advance -- what I'll be doing when I get there.
Originally Posted by kurvhugr
To the folks at Megan, these little doohickeys probably seem pretty simple (and I bet they are.....and I'm feeling pretty stupid about it right now), but when you're selling to the do-it-yourself crowd (not mechanics but teachers, desk clerks, bank managers, sign painters, ETC) you have to assume folks may have trouble with even the simplest things. And if you're an engineer or experienced wrench, you have to assume that you're going to misjudge your customers' level of understanding from time to time.....because it's all so patently obvious to you..... It's like the advice I give my grad students before they start writing their theses - write so someone with much less experience than you have still can understand and can repeat everything you've done. In other words, make it stupid-proof.
Sorry Steve [Steve from Megan that is], I can't noodle this one through without a visual aid. I bet I could if I was holding an adjuster in one hand and a damper in the other, but the coilovers are already on the car so that's not so easy to do. I could figure this out though if the parts came with a diagram showing what attaches to what and how it's done (and how to cut/shorten/reassemble as well please). As it is, I don't feel like going to the effort to get at the top of the dampers until I feel confident that I know -- in advance -- what I'll be doing when I get there.
Sorry Steve [Steve from Megan that is], I can't noodle this one through without a visual aid. I bet I could if I was holding an adjuster in one hand and a damper in the other, but the coilovers are already on the car so that's not so easy to do. I could figure this out though if the parts came with a diagram showing what attaches to what and how it's done (and how to cut/shorten/reassemble as well please). As it is, I don't feel like going to the effort to get at the top of the dampers until I feel confident that I know -- in advance -- what I'll be doing when I get there.

I don't recall sending a set... or did I? My mind is slipping.
Either way, okay the operation is pretty simple. See the larger end with the smooth insides that you speak of? That slides perfectly over the Adjustment **** of our Dampers. Slide it over the ****, and tighten down the set-screw and they will be secure to turn the **** as you please.
The ***** on the dampers are textured so it's easy to grip and will not slip. the aluminum material of the **** also allows the set screw to "Dig" into the **** preventing any slippage.
Yes, the Megan Dampers come with adjustment *****; however these extended ***** are sold seperately for those who would like them.
They are sold for $40.00 MSRP however will be available to our distributors who will hopefully sell them a bit cheaper.
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, you can test them with the front dampers; on the ***** to see the fittment.
I'm trying to work on a few things right now. The Cat-Back is coming in that will fit all years of MCS 02-06. We just got a knew short-throw shifter for the 04+ Coopers. The Supercharger pulleys are coming in a few months. The Rear Control arms are coming in as well and the sway bars are being made as we speak too. So... lotta goodies coming out. The Pillowball upper mounts for the rear are being prototyped as well in the next few weeks.
So just... yeah... I love my MCS, and I love making goodies for it. So there will be plenty of new things coming out when I can get them to you guys. Sorry for lagging.. I don't mean to. Things just pile up and I got a billion and one jobs over here. Know that the MC and MCS are my priorities though. Thanks for the support and the comments guys.. I do appreciate them, know that.
Hi Megan! lol
Originally Posted by Megan Racing
Man, this thing is weird. It won't tell me when people post anymore so then I get tied up with other things and don't check back until all hell breaks loose. Ehh well.
I don't recall sending a set... or did I? My mind is slipping.
Either way, okay the operation is pretty simple. See the larger end with the smooth insides that you speak of? That slides perfectly over the Adjustment **** of our Dampers. Slide it over the ****, and tighten down the set-screw and they will be secure to turn the **** as you please.
The ***** on the dampers are textured so it's easy to grip and will not slip. the aluminum material of the **** also allows the set screw to "Dig" into the **** preventing any slippage.
Yes, the Megan Dampers come with adjustment *****; however these extended ***** are sold seperately for those who would like them.
They are sold for $40.00 MSRP however will be available to our distributors who will hopefully sell them a bit cheaper.
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, you can test them with the front dampers; on the ***** to see the fittment.
I'm trying to work on a few things right now. The Cat-Back is coming in that will fit all years of MCS 02-06. We just got a knew short-throw shifter for the 04+ Coopers. The Supercharger pulleys are coming in a few months. The Rear Control arms are coming in as well and the sway bars are being made as we speak too. So... lotta goodies coming out. The Pillowball upper mounts for the rear are being prototyped as well in the next few weeks.
So just... yeah... I love my MCS, and I love making goodies for it. So there will be plenty of new things coming out when I can get them to you guys. Sorry for lagging.. I don't mean to. Things just pile up and I got a billion and one jobs over here. Know that the MC and MCS are my priorities though. Thanks for the support and the comments guys.. I do appreciate them, know that.
I don't recall sending a set... or did I? My mind is slipping.
Either way, okay the operation is pretty simple. See the larger end with the smooth insides that you speak of? That slides perfectly over the Adjustment **** of our Dampers. Slide it over the ****, and tighten down the set-screw and they will be secure to turn the **** as you please.
The ***** on the dampers are textured so it's easy to grip and will not slip. the aluminum material of the **** also allows the set screw to "Dig" into the **** preventing any slippage.
Yes, the Megan Dampers come with adjustment *****; however these extended ***** are sold seperately for those who would like them.
They are sold for $40.00 MSRP however will be available to our distributors who will hopefully sell them a bit cheaper.
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, you can test them with the front dampers; on the ***** to see the fittment.
I'm trying to work on a few things right now. The Cat-Back is coming in that will fit all years of MCS 02-06. We just got a knew short-throw shifter for the 04+ Coopers. The Supercharger pulleys are coming in a few months. The Rear Control arms are coming in as well and the sway bars are being made as we speak too. So... lotta goodies coming out. The Pillowball upper mounts for the rear are being prototyped as well in the next few weeks.
So just... yeah... I love my MCS, and I love making goodies for it. So there will be plenty of new things coming out when I can get them to you guys. Sorry for lagging.. I don't mean to. Things just pile up and I got a billion and one jobs over here. Know that the MC and MCS are my priorities though. Thanks for the support and the comments guys.. I do appreciate them, know that.
When do you think the rear pillowballs will be ready to be sold? I want to wait for them but I would like to get them before the Monterey Historics?
Thanks,
Shawn
Originally Posted by Megan Racing
I don't recall sending a set... or did I? My mind is slipping.
Originally Posted by Megan Racing
Either way, okay the operation is pretty simple. See the larger end with the smooth insides that you speak of? That slides perfectly over the Adjustment **** of our Dampers. Slide it over the ****, and tighten down the set-screw and they will be secure to turn the **** as you please.
The ***** on the dampers are textured so it's easy to grip and will not slip. the aluminum material of the **** also allows the set screw to "Dig" into the **** preventing any slippage.
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, you can test them with the front dampers; on the ***** to see the fittment.
The ***** on the dampers are textured so it's easy to grip and will not slip. the aluminum material of the **** also allows the set screw to "Dig" into the **** preventing any slippage.
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, you can test them with the front dampers; on the ***** to see the fittment.
I get it, I FINALLY get it!!!!I thought the core inside the flexible shaft was supposed to REPLACE the hex key and therefore the smaller, knurled end of the flex shaft would REPLACE the original ("stock") adjustment ****. FWIW, now you might understand why I thought I was going to have to dismount the rear dampers to install these things..... So, you place the larger end of the flex shaft over the original ("stock") adjustment **** and secure it with the set screw. The flexible piece just becomes an extension of the (retained) original adjuster.
I know why I expected the set screw to secure the flex shaft to the damper itself though.....and it brings Shawn's (CynMini) questions to mind "How are they held on to the shocks? And do they stay on without falling off?" The set screw ensures that the flex shaft remains affixed to the original adjustment ****, but the only thing keeping the hex shaft (and everything now attached to it) in place atop the damper is gravity.....right?
Actually, I think that's going to be plenty since I can't imagine there's any way the hex shaft will make its way up and out of the hole in the top of the damper, no matter how you drive or how rough the road. And even if it does manage to get out some how, it's still secured to the flex shaft so you're not going to have to pull any interior panels off to find it. Why not? The knurled end of the flex shaft is not permanently affixed to the shaft; it attaches via another set screw. So, you make a hole in an interior plastic panel only large enough to fit the shaft through and then, on the interior side of the panel, reattach the knurled end to the flex shaft. The hole should be no where near large enough to allow the knurled end to fall through and since everything else is secured by set screws, the **** keeps things from getting loose and wandering off behind the panel.
Now that I understand the function of the three different set screws, I see how easy it is to shorten the flex shaft to customize the length based on where I choose to mount the interior adjustment ****.
I finally understand - it's a piece of cake!
Here's my advice to anyone trying to decide which length to choose (there are three). Order the longest one available (they're all the same price). Then, when you have the thing in hand so you can better visualize your options, you can cut the shaft to match up with where you want to mount the interior ****. Keep in mind though that the longer you leave the shaft, the less you can feel the "clicks" as you adjust. I don't actually know that from experience, it's something Steve (from Megan) said in a much earlier post. So, order the long shaft because the extra length gives you the greatest possible **** placement flexibility, but consider that shaft length versus sensitivity bit as you choose your mounting location.
I know where I'll mount mine - in the boot, between the rear seat back and the cubby hole door, located almost exactly half way (heightwise) along the frontmost edge of the cubby door. Careful placement will ensure that the cubby door will clear it. I'll just have to cut a hole through the foam that's behind that part of the plastic panel. It's a perfect location for me - out of the way yet still very easy to reach. Even with the longest flex shaft there aren't many potential mounting locations due to obstacles, especially if you still use your rear seats. I don't have the HK amp so I don't know exactly how much of a problem it would be, but my guess is you could clear it and still mount the passenger side **** very near where I plan to mount mine. If someone can direct me to a pic/diagram showing exact location of the HK amp I'll be able to make a more educated guess.
Originally Posted by kurvhugr
YES, they're sitting right here next to my keyboard!
Doh!
I get it, I FINALLY get it!!!!
I thought the core inside the flexible shaft was supposed to REPLACE the hex key and therefore the smaller, knurled end of the flex shaft would REPLACE the original ("stock") adjustment ****. FWIW, now you might understand why I thought I was going to have to dismount the rear dampers to install these things..... So, you place the larger end of the flex shaft over the original ("stock") adjustment **** and secure it with the set screw. The flexible piece just becomes an extension of the (retained) original adjuster.
I know why I expected the set screw to secure the flex shaft to the damper itself though.....and it brings Shawn's (CynMini) questions to mind "How are they held on to the shocks? And do they stay on without falling off?" The set screw ensures that the flex shaft remains affixed to the original adjustment ****, but the only thing keeping the hex shaft (and everything now attached to it) in place atop the damper is gravity.....right?
Actually, I think that's going to be plenty since I can't imagine there's any way the hex shaft will make its way up and out of the hole in the top of the damper, no matter how you drive or how rough the road. And even if it does manage to get out some how, it's still secured to the flex shaft so you're not going to have to pull any interior panels off to find it. Why not? The knurled end of the flex shaft is not permanently affixed to the shaft; it attaches via another set screw. So, you make a hole in an interior plastic panel only large enough to fit the shaft through and then, on the interior side of the panel, reattach the knurled end to the flex shaft. The hole should be no where near large enough to allow the knurled end to fall through and since everything else is secured by set screws, the **** keeps things from getting loose and wandering off behind the panel.
Now that I understand the function of the three different set screws, I see how easy it is to shorten the flex shaft to customize the length based on where I choose to mount the interior adjustment ****.
I finally understand - it's a piece of cake!
Here's my advice to anyone trying to decide which length to choose (there are three). Order the longest one available (they're all the same price). Then, when you have the thing in hand so you can better visualize your options, you can cut the shaft to match up with where you want to mount the interior ****. Keep in mind though that the longer you leave the shaft, the less you can feel the "clicks" as you adjust. I don't actually know that from experience, it's something Steve (from Megan) said in a much earlier post. So, order the long shaft because the extra length gives you the greatest possible **** placement flexibility, but consider that shaft length versus sensitivity bit as you choose your mounting location.
I know where I'll mount mine - in the boot, between the rear seat back and the cubby hole door, located almost exactly half way (heightwise) along the frontmost edge of the cubby door. Careful placement will ensure that the cubby door will clear it. I'll just have to cut a hole through the foam that's behind that part of the plastic panel. It's a perfect location for me - out of the way yet still very easily to reach. Even with the longest flex shaft there aren't many potential mounting locations due to obstacles, especially if you still use your rear seats. I don't have the HK amp so I don't know exactly how much of a problem it would be, but my guess is you could clear it and still mount the passenger side **** very near where I plan to mount mine. If someone can direct me to a pic/diagram showing exact location of the HK amp I'll be able to make a more educated guess.
Doh!
I get it, I FINALLY get it!!!!I thought the core inside the flexible shaft was supposed to REPLACE the hex key and therefore the smaller, knurled end of the flex shaft would REPLACE the original ("stock") adjustment ****. FWIW, now you might understand why I thought I was going to have to dismount the rear dampers to install these things..... So, you place the larger end of the flex shaft over the original ("stock") adjustment **** and secure it with the set screw. The flexible piece just becomes an extension of the (retained) original adjuster.
I know why I expected the set screw to secure the flex shaft to the damper itself though.....and it brings Shawn's (CynMini) questions to mind "How are they held on to the shocks? And do they stay on without falling off?" The set screw ensures that the flex shaft remains affixed to the original adjustment ****, but the only thing keeping the hex shaft (and everything now attached to it) in place atop the damper is gravity.....right?
Actually, I think that's going to be plenty since I can't imagine there's any way the hex shaft will make its way up and out of the hole in the top of the damper, no matter how you drive or how rough the road. And even if it does manage to get out some how, it's still secured to the flex shaft so you're not going to have to pull any interior panels off to find it. Why not? The knurled end of the flex shaft is not permanently affixed to the shaft; it attaches via another set screw. So, you make a hole in an interior plastic panel only large enough to fit the shaft through and then, on the interior side of the panel, reattach the knurled end to the flex shaft. The hole should be no where near large enough to allow the knurled end to fall through and since everything else is secured by set screws, the **** keeps things from getting loose and wandering off behind the panel.
Now that I understand the function of the three different set screws, I see how easy it is to shorten the flex shaft to customize the length based on where I choose to mount the interior adjustment ****.
I finally understand - it's a piece of cake!
Here's my advice to anyone trying to decide which length to choose (there are three). Order the longest one available (they're all the same price). Then, when you have the thing in hand so you can better visualize your options, you can cut the shaft to match up with where you want to mount the interior ****. Keep in mind though that the longer you leave the shaft, the less you can feel the "clicks" as you adjust. I don't actually know that from experience, it's something Steve (from Megan) said in a much earlier post. So, order the long shaft because the extra length gives you the greatest possible **** placement flexibility, but consider that shaft length versus sensitivity bit as you choose your mounting location.
I know where I'll mount mine - in the boot, between the rear seat back and the cubby hole door, located almost exactly half way (heightwise) along the frontmost edge of the cubby door. Careful placement will ensure that the cubby door will clear it. I'll just have to cut a hole through the foam that's behind that part of the plastic panel. It's a perfect location for me - out of the way yet still very easily to reach. Even with the longest flex shaft there aren't many potential mounting locations due to obstacles, especially if you still use your rear seats. I don't have the HK amp so I don't know exactly how much of a problem it would be, but my guess is you could clear it and still mount the passenger side **** very near where I plan to mount mine. If someone can direct me to a pic/diagram showing exact location of the HK amp I'll be able to make a more educated guess.
Pillowball Rears... I have no ETA on those; but I'll rush them. I wonder if it's gonna make the ride any stiffer though, yenno? Like maybe too stiff. Either way, I'll push those for you guys.
Until then, I have a quick question about short shifters. What's the EXACT production point that the applications changed for them? Was it September? October? December of 2003? Lemme know cause we got the new shifters in and maaaaaaaaaan.. they feel awesome.
They are basically 2" shorter than stock. So they're easy to install, you can keep the cover on the bottom and they're not sloppy at all.





