once you get the rear stock suspension apart you will instantly know what you need to keep. let me get a quick image and parts numbers of what you will be saving, and i will post it. give me like 30 min.

-sm

 

here is what you will need

 

Groovy - I ordered two of them. I just got the coilovers, and did my H-Sport springs about 6 months ago, so I couldn't remember what the parts would be. Thanks for the post .

Now the other part of the question - does anyone have a baseline in terms of "how much thread" should be exposed as it relates to ride height? I have about 13" between the center of the wheel and the fender (front), and I'd like to stay at about that height.

A good baseline would make fine tuning and then corner balancing go a lot faster I think.

 

honestly, it depends on YOUR car to set a baseline. set them, lower the car, drive it a few blocks, come back check height. from that point if you want 1" lower, you need to lower the coilover 1" via the lower threaded pivot.

you can adjust the fronts and rears with them still on the car. the rears will be a little tight so small hands work out for that. follow mebs directions in this post and everything will work out well.

 

I don't disagree that I will need to adjust them to my car, but a baseline is just that - a general guidline that gets you in the right ballpark. I am asking this because the units are shipped assembled, and I don't know if they are already at roughly the stock height, or higher, or lower? And if they are not at any particular height (just stuck together), then I was hoping to determine a reasonable start point so that I don't have to tear the wheels off 4 or 5 times fiddling with it.

Thanks

 

It's better to measure from the ground to the bottom ot the jacking blocks, its more acurate that way.

 

i will have my wheels off today, as i am mounting up some new tires, so when they are off i will try to measure my f/r spacing. i am lower in the front and a little higher in the rear. this weekend i will be shaking it out and raising the front a bit and lowering the rear so it sits a little more balanced.

well see how that goes.

 

I installed the Megan Coilovers this weekend, and I really like the fit and finish. However, there are a couple of exceptions and tips from my install.

1) The rear adjuster ***** are too short. Even my 4" 3mm hex wrench won't reach the adjuster. I am guessing it needs about a 5" shaft. I do know the rear shock well in the body of the car is 3.5" deep, and there looks to be about an inch between the top of the shaft and the body. Anyone else (or Megan Racing) have a comment on this? Megan Racing, are there longer adjusters (not the cable extenders) available?

2) marking holes for the rear adjusters: I put the mounting bracket and lower bushing back on the car, and used a Sharpie to "draw a circle" on the metal in the shock tower. Basically, but the pen through the bushing, and then "roll the pen" around the hole. You're left with a circle on the top of the shock tower that you then center punch the middle of, and drill your hole. I also found that I could use a cordless drill without removing anything from the car if I put the drill bit in the drill after I got the drill lined up to the hole (the battery stuck out between the sway bar and rear trailing arm).

3) As for height, I don't recall the exact coil height, but I left it set as it was from Megan Racing (I believe about 180 mm rear and maybe 160 front, I'll check tonight). The space I now have between the spring perch lower lock nut and the height adjustment lock nut is: 25mm F and 35mm R. This gave me a great start point, but I will play around with it after I drive it some. I certainly found out these will be about 1.5" - 2" shorter than the factory units (don't ask how I know )!

I am running the shocks at 10 (from softest) to get a feel for things, and I like them so far. Seems to ride firmer yet better than the h-sports, although the tail is a little twitchy right now (maybe still a little too low in the rear). As soon as I can adjust the rear shocks I'll try firmer and softer just to see.

Also, does anyone have any idea of the camber degree change for each registration mark on the camber plates?

 

Brought my car in for an alignment last week. I had the front struts set at the third mark in and they are now set just a hair past the fourth mark. My before camber was -1.5 and after is -1.9 . So, I would guess that each mark is equal to approx. .3 - .4 ? FWIW, I have mine set at 14 from stiffest and the ride is still o.k

 

The rear spring rates are higher. This will help with rotation.

A lower rear tends to - in most cases - stabilize the back end.

 

hmmm....I thought there were some beige colored hard foam pieces that went under the top washer?

 

ya that is the "two large rubber bushings" that i was speaking of lol they are white and interlock on the top and bottom of the strut top mount

 

Speaking of? What did you say? Did you use these? I couldn't find a way to not use them...

 

Mine are yellow-ish and they were re-used. no way around re-using these...unless you have poly. But something needs to be there.

 

It may be. I know that right now the rear is lowered more than the front (by about 5mm), relative to what the stock shocks + H-Sport springs were. That is giving me a little more negative camber front and rear, plus the springs are linear now (instead of the H-Sport variable) so that too is likely giving me "twitchiness". I'd probably say that this "twitchy" feel is really the car responding faster to inputs now, and I just need to readjust the driver inputs .

As before, are the rest of you guys able to use the rear adjustment ***** or are they too short for you too?

 

The increase in responsiveness could be caused by a few things; were you running stock dampers with the H-Sport springs? The increase in damping plus the heavier than H-Sport spring rates will contribute to a more responsive feel.

 

you making fun of me ?

 

Who is?

 

I have mine set at stiff as it gets and I am tucking in the rear. But if I want to chance the rear dampening, i just jack up the car take off the rear wheels and take out the two bolts at the top and drop the coilover. The car handles like a dream but the ride itself sucks, i feel every bump in the road. I give up comfort for performance though.

 

Huh???

 

So what is the overall opinion on these? I am thinking of getting these for my MCc. Who has the best price?

 

dont bother. megan is full of promises and never delivers.

 

OK, but has anyone tried installing these on a convertible?

 

Yea, what he said.

 

i think if you installed them on a convertible they would randomly explode. but they would have replacements out to you in a few months LOL