$40.00 for a pair.

 

http://www.optionimports.com/meracokitmic.html

 

That is a legitimate post and they are a trusted distributor of our products. There is no discrepancy with that price either... enjoy.

 

i just recieved my set (for that price too) Can't wait to get them installed

 

Hows the progress on the rear pillow *****? And how are the cable adjusters for the rear working out?

 

Sloooooow....

Everytime we get new samples in, Customs has a field day and starts popping open our containers. They get uneasy when we have a container that has 50-100 pieces of each part and then one "unmarked" box.

 

still trying to get some information on the install of these coils, especially the rear.

what parts from the stock rear upper mount do you re-use? i see the the pics the top part of this is a flat rount upper mount, which components do you reuse.

also when you adjust for height on the car, do you lock down the upper two perches (to hold the spring in a slightly loaded position) then unlock the lower and spin them down, then relock the lower..?

thanks for all the help!

 

About that. I would guess you would want to start with zero preload. Just at the point where the spring is held in place without being lose. I think you would want the spring adjuster tight when you adjust the ride hieght. This is the question I have: If I want to lower my car one inch, should I make the strut assemblies 1" shorter then the stock assemblies before I install them and use that as a starting point? And then make small ride hieght adjustments if needed when they are on the car?? Then if I want to corner balance, would I use the preload adjusters to make weight changes???

 

This is why I don't like this style of strut. It makes no sense to me, but I am certainly no expert in suspension. I think it's more of a fad with street tuners.
I would bet that there are not many, if anyone, here that can answer this question. If they can, it will be interesting to read. I'll keep posted in hopes to learn just what this thing is all about.

 

The design and application is striaght forward. The rationale behind this design is to maintain damper travel. With all other traditional systems, damper travel is shortened as ride height is shortened. One of the key reasons stock dampers do not last a long time with lowering springs.

Simply set the springs tight enough between the upper and lower perches to keep the spring from losing contact with the perches. You should be able to spin the springs between the perches with minor effort after this adjustment. The springs must be exactly the same length left to right. Then, NEVER EVER TOUCH THIS ADJUSTMENT AGAIN.

Move to the lowest single lock ring, loosen this lock ring, then go back up to the two lock rings that form the lower spring perch. (make absolutely sure these two have been sufficiently tightened against one another) If you want to raise ride height, place the adjustment wrench on the lower of these two lock rings and turn it counterclockwise. You will see both lock rings spinning together ALONG WITH THE ENTIRE DAMPER BODY - THIS IS KEY! THE ENTIRE DAMPER BODY AND SPRINGS AND ALL WILL TURN IN THE LOWER HOUSING OR SLEEVE MAINTAINING ALL THE PRE-SET RELATIONSHIPS. If the damper body does not move in sinc with the lock rings, spring height will change. If you want to lower the car, place the adjusting wrench on the upper of the two lock rings and turn it clockwise.

The weight of the car needs to be off the wheel to adjust height - very typical.

If you do not pay attention and the damper body moves on one side but not the other, by chance, one side will have a different spring height and damper height. PAY ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS. This is a good design...I know my good friend Onasled is a little suspect, but it works just fine. If you have 'others' perform this work, they need to understand what can and what cannot move while adjusting these. Even then, they may screw it up...as a few fine folks did with mine.

THE KEY IS THAT THE TWO LOCK RINGS THAT FORM THE LOWER PERCH MUST BE TIGHT ENOUGH SO THAT THE DAMPER BODY AND SPRINGS MOVE AS A SINGLE UNIT AS YOU TURN THE LOCK RINGS TO EITHER RAISE OR LOWER THE CAR.

 

Meb,
Thanks for that info. I guess I still get caught up in the racing set-ups. I can see how this now works to benefit the lower spring rates used on the street.

 

It's not really the lower spring rates Greg. It is nothing more and nothing less than preserving suspension travel. If someone wants to lower their car 3" and I only want to lower mine 1", we both have the same travel.

You can use some pretty high spring rates with the Megans...up to 9kg/mm I think. For goofs and giggles I set my dampers at setting 28 ( 32 is hardest) yesterday for a ride down the Merrit Pkwy to Greenwich. The ride was OhMyGod stiff and the reaction of the car was telepathic at speeds not to be printed. Don't try this at home folks! I felt worms as I ran then over.

 

Ahhhh, my old racetrack .... the Merrit. That used to be one fun road back in the '70s when traffic was sparce. I miss all of those roads down that way..

 

I was curious to know why you noched out the strut tower hole on your car? Can't you just loosen the 3 bolts and drop the strut down to adjust the camber?

If you are going to corner balance the car do you use the preload adjusters to do that or the ride hieght adjusters?

 

Man... I miss out on a lot in a day.

 

DEFINATELY THE RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT! Once the spring height or length has been set, there is no need to fiddle with it again.

Regarding your first question. It is much easier to adjust camber by loosening the four allen screws on the red camber plate - and easier again with the weight off the wheel. Technically, the three nuts on top of the strut tower should not be re-used. The notching is only necessary if you want 2 degrees plus negative camber. up to 1.5 degrees neg camber you should have zero problems getting at those four allen screws. Depending on build tolerances, the next half a degree may or may not pose difficulty. You will need to purchase a BALL END ALLEN KEY. This type of allen key will allow you to get at the allen screws from an angle. But once near 2 degrees negative, nothing works but a little metal removal. This is not a big deal. you can check my gallery and see what I did. Mine was actually a repair; my alignment guy - or one of them - butchered my strut towers.

A nice big coffee, air tools, and perhaps some Excedrine and you'll be set If you're not painting after grinding, this will take about an hour. Cover the top of the Megas with something to prevent metal filings from getting inside nice clean parts.

 

If only the day was longer!

 

got the megans installed tonight. havent had time to play with the ride height, as my rear is way too low and front about the same as was with h&rs. car most definitly needs an alignment now, it did before but i didnt bother because i knew i wasnt going to keep the progressive rate springs. car also has needed the tires rebalanced since i had them mounted.

i will give a full review and some helpful tips on installing. they are of good quality, but definitly need some work on the installation as well as the assembly.

meb - i tried your shaft and drill bit trick. got a little nervouse as the slider inside the bushings moved around quite a bit and it wasnt going to be accurate so i said not to bother. does anyone have a template for the rear adjustment hole yet? if someone could take measurements, i could create a template in illustrator, test it out, and make it available to the public.

 

Yes, there is room for error. My accuracy was perfect on the right side and not so perfect on the left. That's why I suggested a cone shaped grinding bit to ream out the hole a little more. This worked fine and added about 10 minutes to the job. Wear eye protection!

Just remember to make sure that the damper and spring turn as you adjust ride height. Also, and I'm sure that you'll do this, take measurments before and after any height adjustments so you do not get lost. Take these from the bottom perch to the lower housing as is this the area that changes with height adjustments.

 

meb can you measure the position of your rear adjuster holes so i can make a template ( or at least get mine drilled out. i imagine itll be easier from the top as i can put downward pressure rather than upward.

 

How will you get a drill in that space from the top? The entire liner has to be removed to do this. Try this; use the flange as I suggested but use the drill bit to drill a pilot hole. Then, remove the flange and use a 1/2" or 5/8" bit to perform the remainder of the drilling. As I noted, you may need to remove the upper control arm bolt at the hub to make room for a battery operated drill.

This is really quite easy from below. Wear eye protection! Also, make sure the drill bit is CLEAR of any wires that sitt near these holes.

 

itll be done with an air powered drill, it has a really slim profile, looks similiar to an air ratchet ( not air torque gun)

 

Any plans for us 02 and 03 owners? Short shift is one of the last (go figure) things I need to do. But, I do have a set of coilovers coming. Monday at this point it seems, but that's a good thing, because I have a storm door to install that I'm sure would be much less likely to get done if I had the coilovers in my hands

 

Short shifters for the 02-03? We already have those. Ask Aaron from Outmotoring and he can place that order for you.

 

I am sure this in this thread somewhere, but what rear parts do I need to reuse when mounting? I'd like to buy new parts and keep the factory suspension parts intact so part numbers would be awesome if anyone knows them.

Looking forward to getting these babies installed!! Along with my brakehorsepower pads and rear stainless lines!!!