what a pleasure to have a vendor actively participate in technical discussions about the product and fix problems as they arise without a pile of hype and junk science please keep it up!

 

Yes, even when I was being quite dense.

Steve

 

It's okay.. I'm so dense that even light bends around me.

 

See, it does travel in waves...

If these do not come out of the dampers, this is a great fix for those of us with HK amps; the amp must be removed for every adjustment.

 

Off-Topic.. I know. I pick up my 06' MCS in 3 Hours. Woo Hoo!!!

 

what you going to be installing on your new car?

 

Well let me break it in first. But the usual goodies... Custom Twin Charge, Full Suspension Mods (I wonder by who?).

Some M7 Goodies because I really like their stuff; they know what they're doing and I hear they are some good peoples.

A lot of Megan Prototype stuff that's in the works.

But yeah... this is gonna be fun.

 

Honestly, do the rear sway bar. I wouldn't drive the car without doing that first :D. Think my car had about 200 miles on it. before that happened.

I love the M7 stuff. Great support and great guys .

Good luck on the twin charge. =D.

 

yah...better safe than sorry. I was just making sure i understood it all correctly

 

hey you should join the Southern California Mini Manias. Great bunch of guys .

GO GO!

 

Or motoringunderground.com for those interested in something beyond the ordinary

 

Does this mean that Megan is jumping on the Twincharge manufacturing bandwagon?

 

lol... this isn't a Megan Car. No plans as of yet, but if something comes about, then yeah I would. But that's pretty far down the line.

Further Note: I can't even sponsor myself.

 

How do you guys adjust camber once the plate is installed in the car? As you can see, it is impossible to loosen bolts once installed. Do I have it installed wrong? Does anyone have any installed pics?

 

You need to purchase a 'ball end allen key' - I have zero problems reaching all four with this tool.

Also, if you move the two allen screws closest to the car's center line to the middle location, adjusting is that much easier - you'll also get much more negative camber.

 

Yeah, I know, surgery makes it a bit more than a pure "bolt on" type mod, but I'm happy.

Before anyone jumps in to tell me I've weakened an already too weak element of the car, we added (welded) some material below so it should actually be stronger now rather than weaker.

 

Do you know how much negative camber you have in your car with the setting where the picture is? It looks like you're right at the center point of the adjustment scale.

meb, can you give me an idea of how many notches you are (on average, I know both sides are different) from the center to get to the settings you listed in the other thread? I'd like to have a good starting point for when I get the car aligned.

 

It hadn't been set it yet at that point.

 

is it possible to still adjust the camber plate if 4 holes are piloted over the 4 screws, so that they can be accessed by the allen-wrench? if so, would any reinforcements need to be made to retain structural integrity? is a strut brace recommended in this application?

 

Not necessary. Just purchase a ball end allen key and you're all set.


waldvogelmj, after you move the two allen screws (that are closer to the car's center line) to the two center and currently unused holes - go three to four more notches and give it a drive. Camber can be a triack little beast by the way...like all geometry it has a relationship to something. In this case, as in most, the degree and rate of roll. I simply picked a number that I know will work for my mostly street driving. If I were racing I would be very very technical...and then perhaps still not correct.

When you play games with settings, play with one only. Everything ellse should remain constant, including tire pressure - which does affect camber in a small way.

 

Has anyone seen a guide that describes which parts of the rear OEM shocks need to be removed and installed on the Megan ones? Again, no instructions with the kit. Looks like I also need a spring compressor for this task?

 

Shouldn't need spring compressors unless the coilvers come without the springs on the dampners.

Un bolt the stock suspension off the car and replace with coilovers.

 

The problem was that I needed to take several parts off the top of the old dampers to put on the coilovers. I went and got a spring compressor just to be safe.

The next problem is how much of the threaded part do I leave sticking out the top of the coilover? I figure the shorter I make this the more adjustable they will be. Why did Megan include two nuts on the top of the rear coilovers? I'm puzzled by this one.

UPDATE: I figured out the two nuts thing (and am posting it because I'm sure someone will follow my problems when they try this themself). When you tighten the spring perch, the top assembly can spin and the nut can come off the top. The second nut must be there to lock against the first nut to prevent this from happening. Again, it would be nice if they explained this in the instructions.

 

When you say hand tighten, do you mean hand tighten until the perch just touches the spring or hand tichten until you can't turn the adjusting ring any more? I can turn the ring for quite a while after the perch reaches the spring.

 

Looks like the factory settings are a little off. Lowered the front end by 1.75". I need to do some adjusting.