Hi everyone,

I've had my '14 R55 for about 2 months now, and have run across one handling characteristic that I'm looking for some feedback on. I've never had a car with bump steer, but I think that's the right term for what's happening. At low speeds, if I am turning and encounter a bump or depression with one wheel, the steering wheel will jerk and move the car off the line it was on. The few times I have hit any bumps on a higher speed turn (like a freeway connector ramp), its pronounced and feels dangerous. Hopefully that describes it accurately.

The car is a stock MCS with 70k miles, with original springs and shocks. Wheels are 17" with Michelin Pilot sports (no run flats). Front end has been upgraded with poly control arm bushing and 27mm swaybar. The steering feels tight and centered, so I'm not sure what I should be checking next. Tire wear looks even but I've only had it for short period and the tires are fairly new.

I'd love some input here. Tie rods? alignment? worn shocks? I don't have a lot of experience with front suspension, so I'm looking to learn from your experience!

Thanks!

MJ

 

If you have 70k miles and still on the OEM shocks, I would consider replacing them. New dampers will probably take care of most of your concerns.

 

I had the same handling issue with my R56 it ended up being a front strut. I found it when I was checking the front end and saw the oil leaking down the strut.
It made it very hard to control but once I replaced them it handled like it was supposed to.

 

Daft post removed...

 

It was mentioned in original post that the front end has bushings replaced already...

 

I would suggest shock also. On mine the internals became so loose it changed the camber by a half deg. No oil leak either. The shock stem (hope that is a good term for it) was loose inside of the housing and flopping around.

 

Awesome, thanks for all the feedback. I had been delaying on shocks/struts because I couldn't decide on the direction that I wanted to go. Maybe you can help me with that decision I had 3 options I was considering. The main issue I have that is different than most is I'm a bike racer. I regularly carry 2-3 bikes and gear on a hitch mounted rack, which lowers the rear end about 3/4" inch. My concern with sport springs or coilovers would be bottoming out when I have the car loaded up. I'd love to have the car sit a little lower, but don't want to regret that every weekend we load up for the races and don't want to turn it into a harsh ride for everyday driving.

These were the options I was thinking of, and would love some feedback. I've attached a few photos to show the empty and loaded ride heights in the rear

1. Koni Special Active/FSDs, keep the stock springs. This was the least expensive and most likely to give a good result.
2. NM r55 or H&R Sport spring and Koni Yellows. Pricier, might rub
3. Coilovers. Even more pricey, was looking for something used that might be like the Bilstein GP setup where it would still retain some compliance.

Thanks in advance!

MJ


stock ride height

loaded ride height, but seems to tuck under

rear rack setup

 

That is a hugely different question than the usual question posted on NAM....

The thing that you are going to run up against is that after market springs are going to lower the car. The least lowering spring is likely to be the TSW that Way motors carries:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-mi...6-r55-r57.html

Not sure if that will wok on a Clubman, though. Way motors is usually pretty helpful with question so he may chime in with a suggestion or you can contact him.

The MINI Sports Suspension option came with stiffer springs than the base S. You could see if you could find a set of those. The will retain the stock ride height.

For what you are doing I would pair those with Bilstein B6 shocks. I my experience the FSDs are a fit soft, and if you are carrying a load, I would go with a bit more performance. The Bilsteins are also a mono-tube strut, which means the housing to stem is stiffer.

Not sure I would go with coilovers as they tend to lower the car a lot and I would be concerned with wheel travel.

Just some thoughts to consider.

 

I know, its totally against the usual pathway on the performance handling, but when its your only car, you have to make compromises! With the front 27mm and 25mm rear bars, its cornering well so I'm looking forward to getting it all dialed in.

Thanks I'll look into the B6 as an alternative and probably just look around for sport springs if the chance comes around. I appreciate the input!

As a side note, someone asked about my license plate (since the rack receiver hitch is directly in the center of the license plate). I went through 3 different iterations (a flip up license plate, a home made sliding track that would hang below when the rack was in place) and finally went magnetic instead. The flip up one was completely non-visible when driving, and was a ticket waiting to happen. The sliding track version wasn't as secure as I would have liked, so I went ahead and bought some car dealer plate magnets. I added a steel plate with a hole for the receiver at the stock license plate location. When I put the rack on, I just move it up to the door where its still visible. Its very solid so I'm confident its not going anywhere.

Thanks

MJ

magnets mounted to the back of the plate

receiver hitch hidden under the bumper with the cover plate removed.

 

Wow, glad to see see someone else who believes in big sway bars, front and rear, (see my signature).

I run the B8s, which are great for the track and match well with the sway bars. I think the B6s would serve you well.

Oh, I should have noted that the optional sports suspension springs are the same as the springs that come standaard on the JCW. That should make them easier to find. Also, you could try just installing the rear springs if you find a set. That way you don’t stiffen the suspension up too much more than it already is. You could post on NAM market place for a set of black JCW springs.

 

Thanks Eddie for all the info and the nice welcome! I'll post back once I get these on the car in about 6-8 weeks after my broken finger is back in action. I'm loving skirting the line of 30mpg commuter with high smiles per mile when I jump onto it.


MJ