Suspension Is It Necessary To Replace Rotors When Installing New Disc Pads
Is It Necessary To Replace Rotors When Installing New Disc Pads
My '04 MCS w/John Cooper Works Kit and Air Intake just turned 81,000 miles and the disc pads light recently came on. These are still the factory brake pads. I like to drive fast but I've been very gentle with the car's brakes and clutch and that's why they have lasted so long.
My dealer said I should replace the rotors as well as the pads, all together costing over $1,000. I have absolutely no grabbing or other out-of-round issues with the current rotors.
Can anyone advise whether it's really necessary to replace the rotors too or may they be turned lightly at least once to give a virgin surface for the new pads?
Thanks for any helpful comments.
My dealer said I should replace the rotors as well as the pads, all together costing over $1,000. I have absolutely no grabbing or other out-of-round issues with the current rotors.
Can anyone advise whether it's really necessary to replace the rotors too or may they be turned lightly at least once to give a virgin surface for the new pads?
Thanks for any helpful comments.
If you've had OEM pads, odds are they've eaten the rotors to very near their service limit, and they've got a HUGE ridge on the outer edge. You can get a set of new rotors for much less than OEM (pads as well), and a whole brake job from an independent shop for easily less than half of the dealership price.
I finally swapped mine out near 60K for Hawk ceramics - less initial bite, but MUCH less dust.
I'm sure there are some Austin NAMmers who can direct you to an appropriate alternative.
I finally swapped mine out near 60K for Hawk ceramics - less initial bite, but MUCH less dust.
I'm sure there are some Austin NAMmers who can direct you to an appropriate alternative.
81k on a set of rotors your gonna need to replace them. They will be very thin and have a huge lip that will cut through your new sensor before the new pads are worn out.
Check out our Brake section we have several choices that will save you a bunch over the $1000 quote you already got.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-c...ndling/brakes/
If you need help picking give us a call. They are not all good combinations.
Check out our Brake section we have several choices that will save you a bunch over the $1000 quote you already got.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-c...ndling/brakes/
If you need help picking give us a call. They are not all good combinations.
+1
Oem pads are agressive, and oem rotors are soft....so you need the both!!
If you tried to get away with just pads, they would give you inferior braking for a long time while they "bed in", meaning conformed to the shape of the existing rotor..they are too thin to be turned. Then the rotor would be so thin, pUlsation or even lack of braking ability would become an issue pretty quick...so you would then need new rotors...and then new pads while the old pads were nearly new...a waste of money (you can't reuse old pads on new rotors)....penny wise pound foolish is the term...and very unsafe for most of the time too.
I don't know why ANYBODY would go to the dealer for a brake job....their prices are crazy, and any good shop can work on brakes, use quality parts, and you will have the same or better brakes for less money!!
Oem pads are agressive, and oem rotors are soft....so you need the both!!
If you tried to get away with just pads, they would give you inferior braking for a long time while they "bed in", meaning conformed to the shape of the existing rotor..they are too thin to be turned. Then the rotor would be so thin, pUlsation or even lack of braking ability would become an issue pretty quick...so you would then need new rotors...and then new pads while the old pads were nearly new...a waste of money (you can't reuse old pads on new rotors)....penny wise pound foolish is the term...and very unsafe for most of the time too.
I don't know why ANYBODY would go to the dealer for a brake job....their prices are crazy, and any good shop can work on brakes, use quality parts, and you will have the same or better brakes for less money!!
You could do it yourself to save more money. Replacing the front rotors and pads it pretty easy. Just need a tool to compress the piston. They make specific tools for it or you can use a larger c-clamp to compress it. The rotor is simply help on with a screw and the caliper with a couple of bolts.
No need to bleed if you are not doing the fluid. I always take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it when compressing the piston.
If you take your time, not Including jacking, probably about am hours to do.
No need to bleed if you are not doing the fluid. I always take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it when compressing the piston.
If you take your time, not Including jacking, probably about am hours to do.
Be wary of rotors from auto parts houses. 2 tries and I couldn't get one that would not warp.
With advice from a BMW owner went with ATE powerslots for just a little more and have had zero problems.
And I swap pads when I go to the track and back when I get home.
Plus the hats don't rust.
With advice from a BMW owner went with ATE powerslots for just a little more and have had zero problems.
And I swap pads when I go to the track and back when I get home.
Plus the hats don't rust.
My best guess since I can't see or measure the rotor would be yes at 80,000 miles they are most likely toast. Congrats on getting 80,000 out of your brakes. Lots of drivers can not do that.
I buy my brake supplies here...
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...sories/brakes/
The ATE rotors are very nice. I've installed a couple of sets on friends cars.
I buy my brake supplies here...
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...sories/brakes/
The ATE rotors are very nice. I've installed a couple of sets on friends cars.
Trending Topics
To answer the OP's question in general: no. Rotors and pads should generally be replaced on condition, and each has its own rate of wear. Irregular wear or damage can throw a monkey wrench into the equation, though.
I generally get 2-3 pad changes per rotor, but I never use stock pads or rotors on any vehicle I own. I can't speak as to the typical wear pattern of stock MINI brakes.
I generally get 2-3 pad changes per rotor, but I never use stock pads or rotors on any vehicle I own. I can't speak as to the typical wear pattern of stock MINI brakes.
I had the same issue when pads wore out. The rotors felt great...no grabbing etc. I paid about $700.00 and got life time brake pads with new rotors. They are great and no more brake dust either! You may need sensors too when this is done. Possible headsup.
I would buy this from Way, and have someone install them for you if you can't do it yourself. Save money, upgrade and be happy.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ebc...0-r53-r56.html
To push you over the edge He has FREE shipping on any order of $150 or more, just enter freeshipping into the discount code box.
EDIT: Check to make sure the rotors will fit, or you may need a different solution depending on the brakes in your car.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ebc...0-r53-r56.html
To push you over the edge He has FREE shipping on any order of $150 or more, just enter freeshipping into the discount code box.
EDIT: Check to make sure the rotors will fit, or you may need a different solution depending on the brakes in your car.
Last edited by HRM; Dec 24, 2010 at 01:39 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
15
Oct 2, 2015 09:21 AM
Yazon
Tires, Wheels, & Brakes
11
Aug 27, 2015 04:41 PM









