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Suspension NM Engineering torque arm insert install/engine bushings
SuspensionSprings, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
Just installed my NM Torque Arm bushings. I had the older trianglar torque arm and initially ordered the wrong ones for an '07. I ran the car hard and did not notice any additional vibrations. My initial assessment, it appears to reduce the torgue steer greatly. The install was easy, as previously posted by someone else, 25 minutes once it is raised. Think this was an excellent investment
Just installed my NM Torque Arm bushings. I had the older trianglar torque arm and initially ordered the wrong ones for an '07. I ran the car hard and did not notice any additional vibrations. My initial assessment, it appears to reduce the torgue steer greatly. The install was easy, as previously posted by someone else, 25 minutes once it is raised. Think this was an excellent investment
Glad you got em so fast. You've got one of the few triangular mounts.
I just installed the bushings. Took me an hour since I didn't know what I was doing. I initially was trying to figure out how to remove the existing rubber inserts. Doh! Turns out you just place the new ones on top. Next, I couldn't figure out how to shimmy the assembly back into place. Double doh! I tried to lift the engine. Nope. I tried to lift with a jack. Nope. I tried to push it back towards the back. Nope. I had to pull it forward. Make sure you also pull the engine towards the front when trying to align the bolt.
I forgot to take pictures since I was too busy trying to remove the original inserts. Don't do that.
I spent about 10 minutes trying to figure out how to remove the original bushing without damaging it when I realized what to do. I'll bet quite a few of us have done this but are too embarrased to admit it. lol
I did mine yesterday. I was up on Rhino ramps, trying to get enough leverage to get the bolts loose, then I had to get a 16mm 1/2in drive socket(Autozone) to torque the bolts to 80ft lbs. I sprayed some WD40 on the inserts. It was not to bad and took less than an hour. Now I will tell the wife that some jack stands and a hydraulic jack would make a great birthday present
I spent about 10 minutes trying to figure out how to remove the original bushing without damaging it when I realized what to do. I'll bet quite a few of us have done this but are too embarrased to admit it. lol
Yup, I am initially guilty. I loosened the forward bolt and removed the back bolt and swung down the torque arm. I pulled my motor forward and used a big flat head screw driver as a pry bar to move it back into place.
recommended and very easy to install on a '11 S. I used a bottle jack and a board to hold up the engine to make it easier to bolt back in. Tightened bolts to man-torque specifications.
Does this do anything for an automatic car? Or does it just help out manual tranny equipt?
Originally Posted by Eclipse11S
+1 Anybody ????????
I put it on my 2010 AT, and it was a definite improvement, but I didn't like it. The reason I didn't like it was because when the AT in drive (or whatever gear), the RPM's idle slightly lower than a MT at idle...and this caused an excessive amount of feedback vibration through the car. If you can tolerate that, then it's a good mod.
I put it on my 2010 AT, and it was a definite improvement, but I didn't like it. The reason I didn't like it was because when the AT in drive (or whatever gear), the RPM's idle slightly lower than a MT at idle...and this caused an excessive amount of feedback vibration through the car. If you can tolerate that, then it's a good mod.
On AT cars this usually goes away after 2 weeks and the bushings settle in. But this can also happen if the bolts for the mount are over tightened.
I experienced added vibration when I first put the bushing in too, mostly at idle ... but as Way stated it does reduce over a few weeks time. After the break-in period I think my vibration is still slightly higher than it was pre-mod, but not enough to bother me (like it did on day 1 after install). Definitely worth the trade-off for me.
On AT cars this usually goes away after 2 weeks and the bushings settle in. But this can also happen if the bolts for the mount are over tightened.
Ah...good to know. Wish I knew that before getting rid of it. I torqued my bolts to spec, but I only ran the bushings for about 3 days (and not very many miles) before deciding it wasn't for me...and I sold my bushings.
Might have to try it one more time, because it sure felt nice when accelerating.
You guys still liking this mod? Any updates for the new ones just installed?
I would like this if it really helps reduce the torque steer.... my biggest complaint with the car.
Some people have reported that it does. When I put mine on, I think it did almost nothing for the torque steer but it did help power transfer with some added vibrations. Some do believe that torque steer is caused by the steering geometry and some flexing of the front wishbone bushings which is logically likely. If that is the case, I am at a loss to explain why these inserts would help with torque steer. Maybe someone who knows the suspension geometry can help.
When I put on my AST coilovers with front camber plates (with -2.1 front camber) and changed my ride height (1.2" lower), I feel that that change did remove quite a bit of the torque steer. So ride height and changing the suspension geometry seems to help.
lowering my mini w/ the prokit springs almost completely eliminated the torque steer... of course having Jan add a ton of HP and a ridiculous amount of torque brought it back ... fwd + power = torque steer
Stiffening up your mounts will help get more of that power to the ground effectively
