Suspension NM Engineering torque arm insert install/engine bushings
I'm not an engineer all i can't say what the real differences are, but i have had both on my car and had some issues with the nm one not staying in place and the yellow powerflex one is doing much better. As far as feel I couldn't tell much of a difference of any
I finally install my new engine mount and NM's torque arm insert on last night. Boy what a difference, I noticed right after shifting into a particular gear the car didn't hesitate, once you pop it into gear there's no delay it just launches forward! For all you holding back because you're afraid of getting vibrations from this insert don't worry like I did because there's no extra vibrations and that's with a new OEM torque arm mount.
It also shifted smoother when up/down shifting, I love this insert! I can't speak to those with automatic transmissions because they have there own vibrations. If you perform a sloppy shift into any gears you're going to feel it. Shockingly my 07 MCS originally came with the round style torque arm mount and not the triangle shaped small mount. My 07 S manufacturing date is July 7th.
It also shifted smoother when up/down shifting, I love this insert! I can't speak to those with automatic transmissions because they have there own vibrations. If you perform a sloppy shift into any gears you're going to feel it. Shockingly my 07 MCS originally came with the round style torque arm mount and not the triangle shaped small mount. My 07 S manufacturing date is July 7th.
Gotta say thanks for this walk-through, just got finished installing a set of these and this thread answered all the random questions the instructions didn't cover. Great mod for very little cash. Thanks!
If I recall the spec is 80 ft/lbs a little less than lug nut torque. So could you tighten it without a torque wrench ? Sure. Should you? No
Harbor freight torque wrench. 20 bucks. And you have one for a long time. It's a penny wise dollar foolish question really
You can use the wrench then for all sorts of repairs and mods and at least you'll know you tightened the bolt correctly.
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Bolts and nuts have torque specs for a reason. That being they keep things tight under their designed load and operation.
If I recall the spec is 80 ft/lbs a little less than lug nut torque. So could you tighten it without a torque wrench ? Sure. Should you? No
Harbor freight torque wrench. 20 bucks. And you have one for a long time. It's a penny wise dollar foolish question really
You can use the wrench then for all sorts of repairs and mods and at least you'll know you tightened the bolt correctly.
Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
Tyler
You def don't need a torque wrench to install the torque arm bushings. Just note how much effort it takes to break the bolts loose when you are taking it apart and try to use the same effort putting it back together. I don't torque them when I do it, just the old one grunt tight.
Ah, the ol' "to torque wrench... or not to torque wrench" debate.
Whether or not you can apply the right amount of force has nothing to do with the tool, but the tool does allow confirmation that it's tight enough. Personally, there are things I will tighten to spec, and things I won't. Engine internals, spark plugs and the like, absolutely. Lugs? Motor mounts? Not in the slightest. Every nut and bolt has a spec from the manufacturer because they need repeated results across many different vehicles. I don't need to know it's 80 ftlbs, I just need to know it's not going anywhere, but to each his own.
After much internal debate, and accidentally purchasing the wrong inserts the first time I've come to a decision.
I was going to take my motor mount out and try to fill in the gaps with epoxy and allow it time to cure. but I don't have the time for that sillyness. So I'm going to try and find a junked cooper, nag it's torque arm and use it as a test bed. There's no doubt in my mind that NM and Powerflex make a damn good product, but even for a lowly 60 dollars I can't help but wonder if this can't be replicated well enough at home for much cheaper. A penny saved is a penny earned, after all.
Whether or not you can apply the right amount of force has nothing to do with the tool, but the tool does allow confirmation that it's tight enough. Personally, there are things I will tighten to spec, and things I won't. Engine internals, spark plugs and the like, absolutely. Lugs? Motor mounts? Not in the slightest. Every nut and bolt has a spec from the manufacturer because they need repeated results across many different vehicles. I don't need to know it's 80 ftlbs, I just need to know it's not going anywhere, but to each his own.
After much internal debate, and accidentally purchasing the wrong inserts the first time I've come to a decision.
I was going to take my motor mount out and try to fill in the gaps with epoxy and allow it time to cure. but I don't have the time for that sillyness. So I'm going to try and find a junked cooper, nag it's torque arm and use it as a test bed. There's no doubt in my mind that NM and Powerflex make a damn good product, but even for a lowly 60 dollars I can't help but wonder if this can't be replicated well enough at home for much cheaper. A penny saved is a penny earned, after all.
Ah, the ol' "to torque wrench... or not to torque wrench" debate.
Whether or not you can apply the right amount of force has nothing to do with the tool, but the tool does allow confirmation that it's tight enough. Personally, there are things I will tighten to spec, and things I won't. Engine internals, spark plugs and the like, absolutely. Lugs? Motor mounts? Not in the slightest. Every nut and bolt has a spec from the manufacturer because they need repeated results across many different vehicles. I don't need to know it's 80 ftlbs, I just need to know it's not going anywhere, but to each his own.
After much internal debate, and accidentally purchasing the wrong inserts the first time I've come to a decision.
I was going to take my motor mount out and try to fill in the gaps with epoxy and allow it time to cure. but I don't have the time for that sillyness. So I'm going to try and find a junked cooper, nag it's torque arm and use it as a test bed. There's no doubt in my mind that NM and Powerflex make a damn good product, but even for a lowly 60 dollars I can't help but wonder if this can't be replicated well enough at home for much cheaper. A penny saved is a penny earned, after all.
Whether or not you can apply the right amount of force has nothing to do with the tool, but the tool does allow confirmation that it's tight enough. Personally, there are things I will tighten to spec, and things I won't. Engine internals, spark plugs and the like, absolutely. Lugs? Motor mounts? Not in the slightest. Every nut and bolt has a spec from the manufacturer because they need repeated results across many different vehicles. I don't need to know it's 80 ftlbs, I just need to know it's not going anywhere, but to each his own.
After much internal debate, and accidentally purchasing the wrong inserts the first time I've come to a decision.
I was going to take my motor mount out and try to fill in the gaps with epoxy and allow it time to cure. but I don't have the time for that sillyness. So I'm going to try and find a junked cooper, nag it's torque arm and use it as a test bed. There's no doubt in my mind that NM and Powerflex make a damn good product, but even for a lowly 60 dollars I can't help but wonder if this can't be replicated well enough at home for much cheaper. A penny saved is a penny earned, after all.
Adding another thanks for the walkthrough. I never registered that was the torque arm when I drained my oil recently right next to it. I used the swing down method for time as I had my daughter 'helping'.
My bolts loosened up pretty easily. I was laying on my back with a normal sized breaker bar and pulling down on the breaker bar. It didn't need any PB Blaster or anything.
I installed the Powerflex torque arm insert from Way, and there definitely is an increase in vibrations at idle as well as in traffic when giving it some gas in second gear doing about 10-20kmh (6-12 mph).
I'm hoping that the worst of the vibration will go away after some time, but I actually like how you can feel the engine working and the 1-2, 2-3 shifts are so much cleaner now. It is a very effective mod. I can definitely feel the difference.
I installed the Powerflex torque arm insert from Way, and there definitely is an increase in vibrations at idle as well as in traffic when giving it some gas in second gear doing about 10-20kmh (6-12 mph).
I'm hoping that the worst of the vibration will go away after some time, but I actually like how you can feel the engine working and the 1-2, 2-3 shifts are so much cleaner now. It is a very effective mod. I can definitely feel the difference.
I had one of these inserts installed last year when I had my Koni FSDs put in. I've noticed over the past few months that my car seems to be "bouncing" a ton, particularly under hard throttle, or while letting off in 1st or 2nd gear.
All the threads related to the bouncing seem to point to the insert as the end-all solution. But I've already got one! Any ideas what the problem could be?
All the threads related to the bouncing seem to point to the insert as the end-all solution. But I've already got one! Any ideas what the problem could be?
I had one of these inserts installed last year when I had my Koni FSDs put in. I've noticed over the past few months that my car seems to be "bouncing" a ton, particularly under hard throttle, or while letting off in 1st or 2nd gear.
All the threads related to the bouncing seem to point to the insert as the end-all solution. But I've already got one! Any ideas what the problem could be?
All the threads related to the bouncing seem to point to the insert as the end-all solution. But I've already got one! Any ideas what the problem could be?
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