I read about this on motoring file and didn't see a real conclusion that this became a factory offering, even if i paid for the update. I was at the dealer last week and asked about it and they gave me the stupid look. How did you get the dealer to do the update?

 

Can you please describe what you mean by better control?

 

With the inserts my JCW would distort the front suspension bushings and motor mounts under a hard take off.That causes the car rise up as the drivetrain twists and winds up the soft mounts. With the BSH arm that effect is vastly reduced.

 

Thanks.

I have had the nm one for over 4 1/2 years already. Just not sure what you mean by better control.

 

The dealer looked back and found out when the the software was updated (I think that I remember May 2011). The dealer updated my software as part of a warranty repair appointment. I did not specifically ask for the update, but they confirmed that I had it.

Mike

 

Just a suggestion to those with unwanted vibration. Try removing the 'outer' half of the insert and reinstall the arm. a glass half empty may be the solution

 

But what I don't understand is that for those who hate the vibrations on the MCSa I would recommend wait a month before the vibrations die down like mine did. I had mine on since April:-). No vibrations at idle OFF sport mode. But in sport mode, SLIGHT vibration.

 

I drive an 07 mcs, with the torque arm insert the car vibrates and rattles very badly, it even knock off my cone air filter, should I change any engine mount bushing or remove the additional torque arm insert bush?

 

I am curious. Would installing these lower engine mount bushings cause any adverse effects on the factory upper mount bushings due to some kind of imbalance between the two? For instance, would they cause the upper mount bushings to crack or something like that due to increased stress on them since the lower mount would not move as much? Thanks in advance to anyone who could chime in on this. = )

 

I wouldn't where added stress would come in. I just installed the NM Engineering torque arm insert yesterday and first start up instant difference. Have the very slightest vibration but the vibration was worse before. Hahaha
As for the other mounts I would think they would last longer for the fact that the engine isn't moving as much as it was before.

 

I can't wait to get mine installed, but all this vibration nonsense is worrying ne

 

I have an auto, no issues or problems with vibrations. It took like five days for it to initially go away. It's not like an airplane when there's turbulence, so calm down guys. But when I have it in sport mode, it vibrates slightly but after having it on for over a year I don't notice it cause it's not bad, at all.

Any other questions from the auto guys, shoot em'

 

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel a lot better!

 

I recently tried the BSH lower motor mount, but the additional noise and vibration was too much for me so I took it out after about 70 miles of using it. So I decided to try the NM inserts and have a very minor vibration, and much happier now with the results. With that said, if anyone is interested in buying a slightly used BSH lower motor mount, shoot me a PM. = )

Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring

 

Don't know if this makes a difference, but I greased the insert with a moly lube that I used on my bicycle bottom brackets, waterproof and fairly sticky. No vibration at all from the first turn of the wheel, but the NM torque arm insert makes a major difference in putting the torque to the road especially out of second and third gears. Feels like a different car with a lot more HP.

2008 Base, manual, 42k miles, round torque arm, I saw where I can find the software level, but I will have to go back out and write it down - it seems to me there were a couple entries like that in the menu. So the software update does something to the ACS?

 

Will NM send you the bracket free of charge if you bought before the bracket was released?

 

It is just a simple strip of metal with a hole drilled in it for one bolt to go through. They put a nice bend in it to keep it from rotating. 10 cent part and 45 cents to mail, so they might send it to you free if you don't just make your own.

I have seen this same piece of metal at the Home Depot, it is used for fixing electrical conduit or copper plumbing to the wall. Most are "U" shaped but they also make one that is exactly the shape you need for attaching the conduit to the wall with only one screw. This kind of piece would work perfect to hold the insert in on the drivers side, the other side doesn't need anything.

 

They gave me the stupid look too. Looking through the Google Doc that Chris on this forum put together on the TSB's, anything look like the update for torque steer to you guys?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...CJnT9MMP#gid=0

 

Just installed my NM insert into a 2013 Clubman S @9K miles......Super easy install!!! very slight increase in steering column vibrations, could not tell much as far as putting down power, no missed shifts going to third out of a turn. All in all happy with the upgrade.

 

I haven't read this whole thread, so I'm posting at the risk of missing some stuff already covered... so I'll put my Nomex on now!

I just had a BSH torque arm installed today. For those who don't know, this is a one-piece billet polyurethane mount, not an insert.

My first reaction is that the BSH mount is strictly for track cars.

The product does what it claims: Shifts are more positive and the front wheels feel much more planted. It's eliminated the torque steer completely.

...But these are all at the expense of both vibration and resonance.

Startup, it sounded like I'd gotten a new exhaust (not a bad thing). Idle is normal. Then under hard throttle and upshifts or at certain RPMs, the vibration in the dash and other interior components is obnoxious. At 3000-3100 RPM- cruising speed in top gear- the drone is enough to make me want earplugs. It hums unpleasantly. Hands-free cell calls are going to be ridiculous and forget using Siri... she's clueless enough on bluetooth as it is. I'm not 16 anymore, so as downsides go, these are deal breakers. The transmission of the vibrations will eventually loosen other components and I drive 25,000 miles annually.

I'm going to give it a few hundred miles at least to see if it beds in a bit, but I doubt it will. If it doesn't, I will probably go with the el cheapo mod of filling the factory mount with resin... sounds like that may be the happy medium.

BTW this is on a 2009 R55 S. 6-speed manual. The car is in top condition, 59,700 miles.

 

I installed the inserts this weekend on my 2013 MCS automatic here are my observations:

1.) Took about 15 minutes - longest part was putting the car on jack stands. I used the loosen the front bolt and swing down method.

2.) For automatic transmission cars, put transmission in neutral set the parking brake then put it back in park. This relieves the torque on the motor.

3.) I notice zero increase in vibration.

4.) I notice much faster shifting response when using the paddle shifters in manual mode. I don't know how this is possible and maybe I'm just imagining it.

5.) I do think it shifts much smoother.

6.) Use a torque wrench when retightening the bolts. 80 ft-lbs

7.) I wish all mods were this easy.

 

hi there,

i just installed this arm insert thing.

but, except felt little vibration, not felt anything on power or transmission, etc.

can anyone tell me how to test the function? any sharp turn?

 

Hey, everyone -

I scanned through some of the postings, and agree that this is a super-simple mod (took less than 5 minutes, mostly because I don't have 16mm in impact, and had to go with a standard socket). Bought both the NM inserts for the rear, and the Powerflex bushings for the front end of the torque arm, and wanted suggestions on how to press out those old ones.

On a side note, it's probably wise to put a bit of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts, given their exposure to heat & corrosion. Mine came off rather easily, but I live in Florida, and my car only has 73k. I don't plan on taking this off again anytime soon, but the OEM rubber bushings will eventually deteriorate. I fondly remember one day at work trying to remove a pair of helicopter bellcrank assembly mounting nuts which were NOT anti-seized properly with moly, hadn't seen corrosion-prevention in who-knows-how long, and seized to well over 500 ft-lbs of break-torque (took three of us with a cheater bar and the aforementioned ratchet several minutes, and we bent both bars) Lesson learned - I put anti-seize on components that experience that water/heat/shade trifecta, and are mounted in awkward spots that aren't conducive to leveraging with a large bar (bottom of vehicle). Perhaps few Minis will last that long, so it might be moot...old habits...


Update: I called around, and it turns out an independent operation right down the street pushed out the old bearings for the hefty sum of $5, 10 min wait. I've finished the install, and here's the results: https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1...it?usp=sharing. So, all in all, the front bushings are an additional "easy" mod for $35 total; got them from Way, awesome deal. I'm wrapping up a list of things (turbo oil line kit, repaired oil filter assembly gasket leak, hood heatshield, oil change, coolant flush, replacing fasteners), and will post after the maintenance test drive.

 

FWIW, I noticed little if any effect after installing the NM insert. I later epoxied it in place, and that made a positive difference, with of course more, but acceptable, NVH.
Probably should have used RTV instead of epoxy.
And if you decide to use Loctite on the bolt, use blue...

 

What's the difference between the Powerflex and the NM Engineering brands?