Door lock problems
#377
I have same symptoms reported by edkim, pimpedout97x, and dustinhxc on page 4 of this thread:
I don't want to buy the part and rip apart my door until I'm confident this is the problem.
- Driver's door will not unlock with the remote or dash switch. (I have to use the key in the driver's door to open it).
- Driver's door will not lock with the switch or at speed
- HOWEVER, the driver's door will lock with the remote.
I don't want to buy the part and rip apart my door until I'm confident this is the problem.
Anyway, just to close the loop (should it be of help to anyone), it was the driver's side door lock actuator/latch, part #51.21.4.433.804 (or 51.20.0.556.768). Changed it tonight and my power locks work normally again.
Last edited by tga3; 03-13-2012 at 08:57 PM.
#381
found this, im going to give it a try. hope everyone benefits from it as well
http://www.instructables.com/id/Repa...or-L/?ALLSTEPS
http://www.instructables.com/id/Repa...or-L/?ALLSTEPS
#384
Ok guys, from reading this thread its safe to say that door lock issues are common in these cars..
The door lock actuator and window regulator on my passenger door both went awhile ago. I din't bother getting into it because I knew that replacing both at once was going to cost me an arm and a leg. Also, my window regulator would work sometimes, it wasn't permanetelly "broken", same with the door actuator. I could never unlock the car using the cabin controls nor the key, but then again I can lock the door using the key.
What I did--- So I decided to pull the door panel off and take the car into one of those drive through car washes, I wasn't too surprised to find water dripping inside the door... Chances are that moisture is creating resistance both on the actuator and regulator..
What the is causing the problem---
Well, at least on my car I'm blaming it all on the window seal.. I'll replace it and let you guys know if water still leaks inside...
2004 R53
The door lock actuator and window regulator on my passenger door both went awhile ago. I din't bother getting into it because I knew that replacing both at once was going to cost me an arm and a leg. Also, my window regulator would work sometimes, it wasn't permanetelly "broken", same with the door actuator. I could never unlock the car using the cabin controls nor the key, but then again I can lock the door using the key.
What I did--- So I decided to pull the door panel off and take the car into one of those drive through car washes, I wasn't too surprised to find water dripping inside the door... Chances are that moisture is creating resistance both on the actuator and regulator..
What the is causing the problem---
Well, at least on my car I'm blaming it all on the window seal.. I'll replace it and let you guys know if water still leaks inside...
2004 R53
Last edited by MeBoosta; 06-12-2012 at 03:57 AM.
#387
#389
Both of the cables on the driver's side door latch are off. I can fix this if I could get the door open but I can't remove the panel without opening the door and I can't open the door till I fix the cables. How can I get the door open or remove the panel if the door is closed?
#390
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Driver's side will not work with the key fob or the panel "unlock". I can lock it from the inside by pushing it down and unlock it with 2 actuations of the handle. It will lock from the outside using the key in the slot, both unlock and lock. The dealer quoted me $400.00 without even looking at it. There must be a lot of similar problems. I can Open/Close it many times for $400.00.
#391
Driver's side will not work with the key fob or the panel "unlock". I can lock it from the inside by pushing it down and unlock it with 2 actuations of the handle. It will lock from the outside using the key in the slot, both unlock and lock. The dealer quoted me $400.00 without even looking at it. There must be a lot of similar problems. I can Open/Close it many times for $400.00.
There's also a how-to on fixing a broken actuator, but it's pretty time intensive and there are a lot of small pieces to keep track of.
#392
My passenger side went out about 3 years ago, at about 30k.
Pulled off the panel, put tension on cable (could still hear actuator TRYING to work)... And with tension on the cable it worked fine. So I routed the cable around a part in the door it's not normally routed around, and it has worked ever since... Just by adding a bit of tension to the line.
Pulled off the panel, put tension on cable (could still hear actuator TRYING to work)... And with tension on the cable it worked fine. So I routed the cable around a part in the door it's not normally routed around, and it has worked ever since... Just by adding a bit of tension to the line.
#393
#394
#397
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Driver's side will not work with the key fob or the panel "unlock". I can lock it from the inside by pushing it down and unlock it with 2 actuations of the handle. It will lock from the outside using the key in the slot, both unlock and lock. The dealer quoted me $400.00 without even looking at it. There must be a lot of similar problems. I can Open/Close it many times for $400.00.
#398
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Everyone who's doing a door lock replacement should take a look at this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H33ad1UcA
He does a LOT of really informational automotive repair videos, that even if not directly on Minis are applicable in general terms.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H33ad1UcA
He does a LOT of really informational automotive repair videos, that even if not directly on Minis are applicable in general terms.
#399
#400