My husband fixed ours with a mirror and a tube of super glue!Im serious!

 

Well I'm new to the forum and my R50. When I purchased it neither remotes worked. Everything locks and unlocks manually with key in the door and the central locking switch. I didnt pay it much mind until now. So if we could recap for a minute. Am I to understand this is an ongoing issue since the 1st gen and has not had a viable solution. If we could summarize what's going on. Is this normally a mechanical issue or electrical? The reason I'm asking is I have access to wiring diagrams and general repair on most vehicles. If we could narrow this down I would be able to have some info available for most as well as correct mine. Thanks

 

I don't think it is an on-going issue that the keyfob remotes never work, but the power locks work OK otherwise. That rules out all the typical mechanical failures within the doors themselves.

Did you buy your MINI used? If neither keyfob ever worked, I would suspect they need to be programmed to your MINI. Wiring diagrams and general repair techniques aren't going to help. You will need to have a MINI dealer program them in for you. That, unfortunately, is not a do-it-yourself job.

 

see message 330

 

I have never had a problem initializing my remotes. It's quite simple, really. Get in your car and lock the doors. Put the key in the ignition and turn to the first position and wait at least 5 seconds. Turn off the ignition and within 30 seconds do the following sequence: press and hold the unlock button, then press and release the lock button 3 times, then release both buttons. Wait about 30 seconds and the doors will unlock and lock. Then reinsert the key into the switch, turn to first position and wait 5 seconds, then turn off and remove. Initialization is complete. If during the process, the doors do not unlock and lock automatically, just start over. Sometimes if you don't use a remote for a long time, you may need to reinitialize it.

 

my far it's ok
MCS 04 106000

 

03 MCS, Drivers side, 70k

 

05 Mini Cooper @ 64K miles driver side - do not remember the breakout as my thermostat was replaced at the same time total $870

 

04 driver side lock died at 57K mi. Might there be a recall?

 

Doubtful. There is no safety angle and essentially all the cars that are failing are now well out of warranty so no economic benefit to BMW. I doubt the problem is so widespread or annoying that BMW is going to do the recall just for goodwill.

If BMW won't recall the badly-flawed power steering pump/fan problem (which does have a safety angle), they're not going to recall this.

- Mark

 

So is there a synopsis yet on how to repair this? I hate buying parts I don't need. Thanks a lot?

 

Depends on what your problem is. If you can't open the driver or passenger door using the inside handle, you may just to re-insert the door handle cable into the actuator. I had to do this once on the passenger door a year or two before the actuators went bad.

If the power locks don't work at all, you'll need new door lock actuators. Got mine from minicarparts.net:

http://www.minicarparts.net/Nxt/sear...=door+actuator

 

My driver side door lock went out a while ago and today the inside handle decided to give out as well. I'd be be able to roll down my window and open it from the outside if my window wasn't broken as well.

Yay 100k!

 

For the window, have you tried banging above the lower speaker on the door while repeatedly pressing the power window switch? Works every time for me! Been like that for a year or two.

 

My remote locks/unlocks all doors except the driver side. It opens both windows. Console switch locks/unlocks all doors except the driver side.

Driver door opens from inside and outside and can be locked/unlocked with the key.

Is this the actuator?

 

Yup - sounds like the actuator to me.

 

Ya I've tried that but it has never worked for me...

Update: LOL I've tried a bunch of times and it has never worked. I was pulling up to the drive-thru ATM and realized I was going to have to climb out my passenger door so I hit it and clicked the switch and it instantly rolled down. haha Gotta love these MINIs - They sure have character.

 

Every once in a while, I'll repeatedly bang on that area while the window is going up,
and again while it's going down, and it seems to keep the window motor happy for
a longer period of time.
I'm thinking it dislodges more crap from the contacts that way.
Maybe so, maybe not, but it seems to be true.

 

I got a 2005 MCS 55000 miles and the passenger door only unlocks by pulling the handle. None of the electrical methods work... help

 

Another failed door lock actuator. You can get a new one for about $120:

http://www.minicarparts.net/Parts/51_21_4_416_272.cfm

There's not much room in the door to work, but it is definitely a repair you can do yourself.

 

from all the great post on here that is what I figured that it was but was hoping that I was wrong. Before I spent the money I figured I would seek the genius from you guys. Thanks for the confirmation. Ill order it and yank it out. I have already dove into the door so I'm not to worried. once again thanks

 

05 MCSC right side

 

05 MC 80,000mi. Neither passenger or driver doors will unlock or even unlatch from inside. Pain in the rear!

 

Both the driver door lock and window have died. 2004 Cooper S- 130,000 miles. Lock works manually, but switch won't unlock driver's door. When door opened window only retracts intermittently. No power windows from inside switch. Hmm?

 

This is exactly what my car is doing- a 2002 MC. Started happening at about 70 or 80k, car just turned 100k. My locks aren't programmed to lock at speed but that's the only difference.

If you look at "volki's" excellent pictures and imagine the actuator with the cover off, there is a gear/lever thing between 4 and 5 that moves as it should when the remote button is pushed but only moves a little with the toggle switch or when unlocking is tried with the switch or remote. Can't imagine what is different about the signal it gets between the two but I imagine being that sensitive means the coil in the actuator is bad.

Can't wait to scrape together the $116 to get a new actuator and have a crack at pulling the old one completely apart- maybe they are repairable!

Val