Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Door lock problems

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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #251  
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cristo
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Originally Posted by brbubba
This is insanity. I pulled mine out a week ago while I waited on the new one. Assumed I could just throw the old one out since it was junk. Trash got emptied and now the new one didn't come with the plastic retainer or the metal retainer for the outside door handle pull. I could jury rig something but I am definitely kicking myself in the rear. Where do you even order those parts from???
They're parts 4, 8, and 9 (probably need this screw as well) on this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40
(might want to double check with your build date - I put in my MINI - 3/2003 build MC).

Parts # 51217040548 for the plastic bracket,
# 51217049855 for the screw,
and - what the hell - it shows 4 part numbers for the metal bracket!! Not sure which pair is correct -
either 51211499779 left and 51211499780 right, or 51217113513 left and 51217113514 right.

Your dealer should have these, or can order them for you, or you could order them from Classic MINI,
Pelican Parts, BMW Moterwerks, or others.
Regarding the metal bracket, You may want to talk with someone before buying to make sure you get the correct one
(or you could buy both for the side you're working with - they're only about $10).
 

Last edited by cristo; Jul 9, 2010 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by cristo
They're parts 4, 8, and 9 (probably need this screw as well) on this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40
(might want to double check with your build date - I put in my MINI - 3/2003 build MC).

Parts # 51217040548 for the plastic bracket,
# 51217049855 for the screw,
and - what the hell - it shows 4 part numbers for the metal bracket!! Not sure which pair is correct -
either 51211499779 left and 51211499780 right, or 51217113513 left and 51217113514 right.

Your dealer should have these, or can order them for you, or you could order them from Classic MINI,
Pelican Parts, BMW Moterwerks, or others.
Regarding the metal bracket, You may want to talk with someone before buying to make sure you get the correct one
(or you could buy both for the side you're working with - they're only about $10).
You're a life saver! I'll call the dealer up. Mental note to self: don't assume that bolted on components come with parts, ha ha.

EDIT: Lame, hartford mini doesn't stock those parts. I'll just order them elsewhere.

Checked out allminiparts.com and it appears the difference is that the pricier ones are for our older models. 2005+ is the cheaper ones that has a different actuator unit.

Thank goodness it didn't cost a lot more, but I just plopped down another $25+10 for shipping, grrr. Hopefully this will be fixed once and for all.
 

Last edited by brbubba; Jul 9, 2010 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 02:40 PM
  #253  
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Door lock problem

Driver side door lock didn't work. My electrical modual was replaced, but then the lock latch needed a slight adjustment to function. Then, worked properly. This repair on My 2004 S was last July-2009. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #254  
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I found a novel way to fix my passenger side latch (actuator assembly).
It wasn't working at all with the remote nor the key (in the opposite door) nor the switch
for several days in a row, and then I ordered a new latch.
Presto, now it's working again. I guess it didn't like me threatening to replace it.

At least when it gives up the ghost for good, I'll already have the part.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #255  
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wheelz
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03 coopers 78000 miles drivers door went out and the passengers door stopped working a few days later. the remote doesn't unlock or lock either door and the drivers door doesn't open from the inside either. going to have to wait a bit before i can fix the doors. I appreciate all the instructions and photos.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 06:05 AM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by cristo
I found a novel way to fix my passenger side latch (actuator assembly).
It wasn't working at all with the remote nor the key (in the opposite door) nor the switch
for several days in a row, and then I ordered a new latch.
Presto, now it's working again. I guess it didn't like me threatening to replace it.

At least when it gives up the ghost for good, I'll already have the part.
That happened to me at one point. It had been broken for a month and then just started working miraculously for a full day before it died again.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #257  
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replaced actuator still fail

So I followed the directions I found in here and replaced my actuater, no bad to do, mild PIA, but.... it did not change anything. Key FOB still will not lock the door, but will the others. Manual lock works.

I started this thread about it, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Possibly the FCZ thingymcbobber?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3104641
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by fishey72
So I followed the directions I found in here and replaced my actuater, no bad to do, mild PIA, but.... it did not change anything. Key FOB still will not lock the door, but will the others. Manual lock works.
Ultimately somehow I cracked the plastic electronics connector and required replacing the electronics harness. Or in my case splicing an old harness connector to mine. Either way at the dealership he said it going to be the same amount of $.

So if you change the actuator yourself be really really careful with that plastic electronics connector!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #259  
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R53, Nov 2002 Build Date, Passenger door, 70,000mi. Bought a cable for like $12, trying to replace it myself..
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #260  
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Passenger door lock failed last week. Trying to open the door from inside or outside both don't work. It seems that the door actuator is stuck in the lock position?

I've got the door panel off but because the door is closed, I can't get to the screws on the outside of the door to remove the actuator.

My question is - any idea how to release the lock so that the door handles can open the door?

Thanks, Paul
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #261  
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took a look at my actuator today to see if its just the cable that came out. Looks like I'm going to have replace the whole actuator.

However, my door handle/tweeter cover isn't going back in tight as one of the plastic pins broke. Anyone know the part number/cost of this little plastic piece?

Edit - Found it on realOEM. I always forget about checking there. :D

Part number for 2004 w/ anthracite trim is 51417050891 (driver door) and its $12.05. 2004 w/ white silver (driver door) 51417035375 and is $12.05

one more edit - called & ordered the part from Niello MINI (Sacramento, CA) and the part is $18.95.
 

Last edited by goldcountrymini; Aug 21, 2010 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #262  
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Originally Posted by Paul
Passenger door lock failed last week. Trying to open the door from inside or outside both don't work. It seems that the door actuator is stuck in the lock position?

I've got the door panel off but because the door is closed, I can't get to the screws on the outside of the door to remove the actuator.

My question is - any idea how to release the lock so that the door handles can open the door?

Thanks, Paul
Do you have the key?
Simply unlock the door.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #263  
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My drivers door lock actuator stopped working with the Keyless entry. Now I have to manually lock/unlock the door via the key. I opened up the door panel and the actuator is placed in a very tight location. Does anyone have a recommendation for an easier way to fix this problem?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by ZippeeGear
Does anyone have a recommendation for an easier way to fix this problem?
Easy way is take it to the dealer or reputable repair shop that works on BMW/MINI's.

Otherwise read back through this thread and DIY, replacing the part is the only way to fix it.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #265  
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04 MC. 63k miles. 6/04 build date. Driver's side.
All doors except driver unlock with fob/remote. Driver door unlocks with key.
All doors lock with fob/remote though.

Is this a mechancal or software issue?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by KnightmareCS
04 MC. 63k miles. 6/04 build date. Driver's side.
All doors except driver unlock with fob/remote. Driver door unlocks with key.
All doors lock with fob/remote though.

Is this a mechancal or software issue?
I would think electrical, the solenoid that fails in the door actuator, but it is all one part which effectively makes it 'mechanical'. Just my Unscientific Wild A$$ Gue$$.

The good news is that the doors lock with the FOB!
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #267  
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Door locks

03 MCS build 10/02 Passenger side went out at about 110K miles. Have not fixed it yet but it appears to be the door module. Yes, it is a pain
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 07:40 AM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by cristo
I found a novel way to fix my passenger side latch (actuator assembly).
It wasn't working at all with the remote nor the key (in the opposite door) nor the switch
for several days in a row, and then I ordered a new latch.
Presto, now it's working again. I guess it didn't like me threatening to replace it.

At least when it gives up the ghost for good, I'll already have the part.
Well, it lasted almost 2 1/2 months until it went out for good.
At least I have next week off for a staycation. Will replace the MINI's passenger side latch
as well as refurbish the worn shifter linkage bits on my wife's VW Cabrio next week.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:17 AM
  #269  
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Replaced the passenger side latch today. Only took about an hour this time.
A mirror and flashlight is helpful. One other very helpful hint: put the outer
door cable on first and wedge something (a medium-small screwdriver handle
for me) between the outer door pull thing and body of the car to keep
tension on that cable. Then it's easier to flip over the lever that the inside door latch
cable end fits onto so it's easier to attach to the lever, and you have both
hands free to do so.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #270  
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02' Cooper S with 77k miles.
Key fob / Central switch will not lock any lock. Unlock works fine on all doors, it's only locking that doesn't.
I have seen a lot of people posting that there doors unlock and not lock, or just don't work with the key fob altogether, but not many like mine. Does anyone know what it could be ??
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 03:28 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by graefeln
02' Cooper S with 77k miles.
Key fob / Central switch will not lock any lock. Unlock works fine on all doors, it's only locking that doesn't.
I have seen a lot of people posting that there doors unlock and not lock, or just don't work with the key fob altogether, but not many like mine. Does anyone know what it could be ??
Have you checked to see if it could be a blown fuse?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 04:41 PM
  #272  
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04 MCS, Nov 03 Build, 50K miles, Drivers side
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:18 AM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by ZippeeGear
Have you checked to see if it could be a blown fuse?
It was raining last night so I checked this morning, all the fuses look good. I was hoping this was something I could deal with myself, but it looks like I might be taking it to the dealer unless anyone else has any ideas...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:40 AM
  #274  
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03 MCS, 85000 miles, passenger door. some times works, most of the time no...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #275  
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03 MCS, Drivers door by key only, failed around 80k, now at 101k, other doors operate using fob. Now I own the car it will get fixed........now where was that thread ?? I have the inner door skin completely off.
 
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