Door lock problems
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Florida USA
Lock unlock not working
My passenger went out at about 50K and now my driver at 58K. I can hear the mechanism trying to unlock it or lock it but it is not making it. When my lock failed on the passenger side I was told immediately that the actuator needs to be replaced without even inspection. Now that the driver went out a week later the window stopped working as well. It also seems that the window motor is operating but not connected some how.
Neutral
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Western New York
Can't lock/unlock door with key in door
Hi, I purchased a 2003 Mini CVT. It is used so I am working though all the little issues. The car came with one key. It is a remote key and works fine. I can press the lock button to lock, unlock and it unlocks etc. The problem is that I can not use the key the old school way by putting it in the key hole to lock and unlock the doors from outside the car. I ordered two new general keys (no remote) to be used as backups but they don't work in the drivers side door keyhole. When I looked in the manual it says something about activation at your local Mini dealer. So I'm thinking it is an electrical mechanism that needs to be activated. Is anyone familiar with how to activate the manual lock mechanism on the driver side door so I can use the key if the remote battery goes dead. This is a great forum. Thank you in advance for any help here.
Best Regards,
Wilkiewheels
Best Regards,
Wilkiewheels
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
50K driver's door lock only works with key. 2003 R50 MC.
I didn't look through all 9 pages of this thread, so, anybody know the
part number for a driver's side door lock actuator?
I didn't look through all 9 pages of this thread, so, anybody know the
part number for a driver's side door lock actuator?
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
I looked there but not sure if the actuator is in part # 3 (catch with key) here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=41&fg=40
or in part # 1 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40
or somewhere else I can't find?
The Bentley and Haynes manuals are pretty weak in this department as well.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=41&fg=40
or in part # 1 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40
or somewhere else I can't find?
The Bentley and Haynes manuals are pretty weak in this department as well.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Looks like it's part # 1 in the second link.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40.
And it's up to about $127 now.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...I1.x=10&I1.y=7
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40.
And it's up to about $127 now.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...I1.x=10&I1.y=7
Last edited by cristo; Mar 12, 2010 at 07:22 AM.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Found good pics on post #126 and a good writeup on post #147.
Hello, I'm new to the forum and have had my 2003 mini cooper s for a little over a month. I love it. I did not realize that my driver's door lock actuator was broken until getting on to the forum. I like to think I am mechanically incline but this project took me about three hours to complete. It works great now. I will try to clear a few things that made my job easier.
1. Taking off the door panel. I used a small screw driver covered in tape so as not to scratch anything. I used that to take off the reflector.
2. Removing the short and long screws require a Torq 40 driver.
3. Releasing the door trim can be done by hand which is the method I prefer because nothing will be scratched. You can use a flat bladed object covered in tape and a screw driver covered in tape if you are having a hard time getting the panel off. Just pull it out and you will hear the clips unlocking.
4. Raise the door trim so that it clears the manual lock and then pull towards you to release the clips. The trim around the door handle will pop out on it's own.
5. Disconnecting cables #2 and #3 (from pics on this thread)was done by pulling away from actuator.
6. #4 is a Tork screw(sorry forgot the size) that you remove to release the cable.
7. #5 is release by puling down on connection.
8. #1 requires you to now release the door actuator from the 3 Tork 30 screw on the outside of the door. Hold onto the actuator so it does not fall and angle the bottom of the unit toward the outside of the door while sliding down.
9. You now have taken the unit out but I needed to unscrew the window rail from underneath the door to pull it toward the inside to give me more room to slide out. This was the hardest part because it touches the outside of the door and can leave dents if not careful.
10. Before sliding the new actuator in I found it easier to take the door handle off, disconnect the door lock cable, remove cable, and connect it to #2( the end of the cable hooks onto a hook inside of the actuator).
11. Screw #4 onto new unit.
12. Remove the plastic cable holder from the old one and put on the new one.
13. Slide the unit back in on an angle while pulling the window rail towards you.
14. Slide the unit up with the bottom angled toward the front of the door and with your hand guide #1 into position.
15. Screw actuator back onto door( not tight yet).
16. Connect cable to #4 and make sure it looks like photo on this thread.
17. Run door lock cable through the back of the window rail to the hole leading back to the handle. There is a clip for the cable next to #2 on the inside door that you want to make sure it is clipped to.
18. Reattach the door handle.
19. Connect #5.
20. Tighten door actuator.
21. Line up rail to original mark and tighten.
22. Lower window slightly to make sure it is functional.
23. Sit in driver's side and close door.
24. Use toggle switch to see if locks work.
25. Get out of vehicle and lower passenger window ( don't want to get lock out until you know it is working).
26. Use key to lock and unlock door.
27. Place key into lock to lock and unlock.
28. Success!
If anyone needs further help PM me or if your in my area I will be glad to help. I'm looking to get into a mini club in NJ.
1. Taking off the door panel. I used a small screw driver covered in tape so as not to scratch anything. I used that to take off the reflector.
2. Removing the short and long screws require a Torq 40 driver.
3. Releasing the door trim can be done by hand which is the method I prefer because nothing will be scratched. You can use a flat bladed object covered in tape and a screw driver covered in tape if you are having a hard time getting the panel off. Just pull it out and you will hear the clips unlocking.
4. Raise the door trim so that it clears the manual lock and then pull towards you to release the clips. The trim around the door handle will pop out on it's own.
5. Disconnecting cables #2 and #3 (from pics on this thread)was done by pulling away from actuator.
6. #4 is a Tork screw(sorry forgot the size) that you remove to release the cable.
7. #5 is release by puling down on connection.
8. #1 requires you to now release the door actuator from the 3 Tork 30 screw on the outside of the door. Hold onto the actuator so it does not fall and angle the bottom of the unit toward the outside of the door while sliding down.
9. You now have taken the unit out but I needed to unscrew the window rail from underneath the door to pull it toward the inside to give me more room to slide out. This was the hardest part because it touches the outside of the door and can leave dents if not careful.
10. Before sliding the new actuator in I found it easier to take the door handle off, disconnect the door lock cable, remove cable, and connect it to #2( the end of the cable hooks onto a hook inside of the actuator).
11. Screw #4 onto new unit.
12. Remove the plastic cable holder from the old one and put on the new one.
13. Slide the unit back in on an angle while pulling the window rail towards you.
14. Slide the unit up with the bottom angled toward the front of the door and with your hand guide #1 into position.
15. Screw actuator back onto door( not tight yet).
16. Connect cable to #4 and make sure it looks like photo on this thread.
17. Run door lock cable through the back of the window rail to the hole leading back to the handle. There is a clip for the cable next to #2 on the inside door that you want to make sure it is clipped to.
18. Reattach the door handle.
19. Connect #5.
20. Tighten door actuator.
21. Line up rail to original mark and tighten.
22. Lower window slightly to make sure it is functional.
23. Sit in driver's side and close door.
24. Use toggle switch to see if locks work.
25. Get out of vehicle and lower passenger window ( don't want to get lock out until you know it is working).
26. Use key to lock and unlock door.
27. Place key into lock to lock and unlock.
28. Success!
If anyone needs further help PM me or if your in my area I will be glad to help. I'm looking to get into a mini club in NJ.
Maybe this is a problem?
Not sure if this is a door lock actuator problem, but it seems very likely.
1st: My driver's side door doesn't unlock with my remote at first click. I know the remotes work because I can hear the noise, its just it doesn't unlock. Also I can unlock the passenger side door and the hatch with the second click. So I must manually unlock the driver's side door.
2nd: When I drive a certain speed the doors usually lock by themselves when I hit a certain mph like 10-15 I think. The driver's side doesn't, and when I try to lock it with the control module in the middle, it doesn't work. Only the passenger's side works.
3rd: The driver's side door locks when I hit the lock function on my remote.
I believe this is the 2nd time the actuator has failed on me. The first time I believe my car was at 34k to 35k, which was fixed under warranty.
Now my car is at 59.5k and driver's side door has failed me again.
I just want people's opinions if this is indeed another door lock actuator problem. So I know I just need to purchase that part and fix it myself.
I was also wondering after I replace the part, does the dealership need to program anything?
1st: My driver's side door doesn't unlock with my remote at first click. I know the remotes work because I can hear the noise, its just it doesn't unlock. Also I can unlock the passenger side door and the hatch with the second click. So I must manually unlock the driver's side door.
2nd: When I drive a certain speed the doors usually lock by themselves when I hit a certain mph like 10-15 I think. The driver's side doesn't, and when I try to lock it with the control module in the middle, it doesn't work. Only the passenger's side works.
3rd: The driver's side door locks when I hit the lock function on my remote.
I believe this is the 2nd time the actuator has failed on me. The first time I believe my car was at 34k to 35k, which was fixed under warranty.
Now my car is at 59.5k and driver's side door has failed me again.
I just want people's opinions if this is indeed another door lock actuator problem. So I know I just need to purchase that part and fix it myself.
I was also wondering after I replace the part, does the dealership need to program anything?
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
all that and more!
I am having the same door lock issues and a bit more. My windows drop to the "door open" position and this leads to a great deal of wind noise. I have read in here somewhere about the possibility o fall this being a Body Control Module (BCM) problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 779
Likes: 4
I'll give my variation on a door lock problem.
My driver's side door won't electrically lock or unlock using either the remote or inside switch EXCEPT it will lock (but won't unlock) with the remote. Mechanical locking/unlocking (with key in door, pushing the plunger, or pulling door handle) works fine.
I understand that the actuator might fail, but when there is one condition where it works, it makes me think it's not mechanical, but some kind of sensor or software gllitch. And this condition occurred a year ago for a couple days and then went away. Now it seems to have returned for good.
These door lock systems are rube goldberg.
04 MCS, 36K miles. Had the window lift replace at 22K under warranty.
- Mark
My driver's side door won't electrically lock or unlock using either the remote or inside switch EXCEPT it will lock (but won't unlock) with the remote. Mechanical locking/unlocking (with key in door, pushing the plunger, or pulling door handle) works fine.
I understand that the actuator might fail, but when there is one condition where it works, it makes me think it's not mechanical, but some kind of sensor or software gllitch. And this condition occurred a year ago for a couple days and then went away. Now it seems to have returned for good.
These door lock systems are rube goldberg.
04 MCS, 36K miles. Had the window lift replace at 22K under warranty.
- Mark
1st Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Mo
04 MCS Driver side door at 54k
mines a bit different, it will lock and unlock with the key and toggle switch and from the outside handle. but if I go to get out of the car and just pull the handle twice, once to unlock, once to open. now nothing happens.... so i have to use the unlock toggle before I can get out... and now thats starting to be hit and miss...
any idea what this could be? gear stripped or something?
mines a bit different, it will lock and unlock with the key and toggle switch and from the outside handle. but if I go to get out of the car and just pull the handle twice, once to unlock, once to open. now nothing happens.... so i have to use the unlock toggle before I can get out... and now thats starting to be hit and miss...
any idea what this could be? gear stripped or something?
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Sounds like the actuator that unlocks the driver's side is gone, and you
likely need a new driver's actuator (a.k.a rotory latch lock left).
Probably the cable from the inner handle to the latch, or its connection
to the handle or to the latch.
likely need a new driver's actuator (a.k.a rotory latch lock left).
04 MCS Driver side door at 54k
mines a bit different, it will lock and unlock with the key and toggle switch and from the outside handle. but if I go to get out of the car and just pull the handle twice, once to unlock, once to open. now nothing happens.... so i have to use the unlock toggle before I can get out... and now thats starting to be hit and miss...
any idea what this could be? gear stripped or something?
mines a bit different, it will lock and unlock with the key and toggle switch and from the outside handle. but if I go to get out of the car and just pull the handle twice, once to unlock, once to open. now nothing happens.... so i have to use the unlock toggle before I can get out... and now thats starting to be hit and miss...
any idea what this could be? gear stripped or something?
to the handle or to the latch.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Mo
this cable... how much of a pain is that going to be to fix? or should I even try it? my MCS is my baby, ill taker her to the BMW dealer if I have to.
well I assume the cable part isnt that bad to fix, but getting the door panel off?
well I assume the cable part isnt that bad to fix, but getting the door panel off?
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Well, the door panel comes off pretty easily. You need to remove the 3 torx screws
(one is behind the reflector on the door), and pop the clips that hold it onto the door
with a plastic wedge &/or your hands (would avoid using a screwdriver unless
you're careful not to scratch the door with it.
Much easier than getting the door panel off my wife's VW Cabrio, and the
clips on the MINI's door panel usually pop off and back on to the door without breaking if you're careful.
Once the panel if off, you can probably figure out what if anything is wrong
with the cable or its attachments, and proceed accordingly.
(one is behind the reflector on the door), and pop the clips that hold it onto the door
with a plastic wedge &/or your hands (would avoid using a screwdriver unless
you're careful not to scratch the door with it.
Much easier than getting the door panel off my wife's VW Cabrio, and the
clips on the MINI's door panel usually pop off and back on to the door without breaking if you're careful.
Once the panel if off, you can probably figure out what if anything is wrong
with the cable or its attachments, and proceed accordingly.
.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Mo
Well I am going to try and fix it myself after Wednesday (After finals...ugh) Ill let you know how i did, and if i am able to do it anyone can... lets all keep our fingers crossed I don't break anything... like last time... stupid dipstick...
I took off the panel and I have to tell you, it's hard to test anything... it's tight spaces, and the parts that do work, only work with the door closed... so any thoughts?
cristo, I pulled off the panel and can't tell anything...
-J
cristo, I pulled off the panel and can't tell anything...
-J
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Sorry, I have a problem with the actuator in the door latch, so I'm not sure
what to look for if the inside handle or cable is the problem, either.
At least the panel is fairly easy to take off and put back on.
Look at posts 16, 100, 122, 126 (for the nice pics), 149 (seems to address
this issue best) and 190 on this thread and see if they help any.
what to look for if the inside handle or cable is the problem, either.
At least the panel is fairly easy to take off and put back on.
Look at posts 16, 100, 122, 126 (for the nice pics), 149 (seems to address
this issue best) and 190 on this thread and see if they help any.
Sorry, I have a problem with the actuator in the door latch, so I'm not sure
what to look for if the inside handle or cable is the problem, either.
At least the panel is fairly easy to take off and put back on.
Look at posts 16, 100, 122, 126 (for the nice pics), 149 (seems to address
this issue best) and 190 on this thread and see if they help any.
what to look for if the inside handle or cable is the problem, either.
At least the panel is fairly easy to take off and put back on.
Look at posts 16, 100, 122, 126 (for the nice pics), 149 (seems to address
this issue best) and 190 on this thread and see if they help any.
... sucks, but at least it will work. (knock on wood)
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 229
From: York, Pennsylvania
Sorry for the confusing and misleading advice, schreiber117.
I misread and thought I was responding to njworley's post.
Glad you're fixed, now. I'm still waiting for an open weekend to do mine.
Psst., njworley, check out posts 16,100,122,126,149 and 190.
I misread and thought I was responding to njworley's post.
Glad you're fixed, now. I'm still waiting for an open weekend to do mine.
Psst., njworley, check out posts 16,100,122,126,149 and 190.