Thank you very much

 

My guess is the actuator. I've done both sides on my daughters mini. If you want new OEM parts, try www.advantageBMWparts.com out of Houston. They seem to have pretty good online prices. As far as doing it, I have found that www.pelicanparts.com has pretty good online instructions under the "How To" section of their website.

 

yep

 

I am having an issue somewhat different to all of the other one's I have read. '02 MCS - both doors lock AND unlock with the key fob and central locking toggle switch. The door lock plunger that goes up when the door is unlocked and down when the door is locked works on the passenger side. The drivers side plunger is always down (in the locked position) whether the door is locked or unlocked. I cannot lock/unlock the doors using the drivers door key hole. The key DOES NOT rotate 360 degrees. It turns left and right normally, but the door lock is unresponsive. If the drivers door is locked, pulling the interior door handle once does unlock the door, but as I mentioned the plunger remains down. Both door's interior and exterior door handles work properly. Anyone know what could cause this?

 

If it were me, instead of asking in hope for a answer, I would just start to pull the door card out to see. It has to be mechanical, and should be very obvious once you are able to see the mechanism. It is like a popped shoulder joint.

 

'03 MC, passenger side door. Drivers side has issues too.

 

I own a pre-Jan 2002 R53, and my driver's side key hole flap and possibly the rest of the lock were damaged. My car's keyfob can unlock/lock the car remotely (all doors)- but the driver's side only opens from the inside when the car has been unlocked, but can be opened from the outside once the first unlock pull has been initiated. I noticed there are two parts listed on realoem.com - A catch with code and a catch with key:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7750

What is the difference between part 51217074428 (Catch with code) and 51217074440 (Catch with key)? Which catch would I need?
Is it a possibility I might just need to reattach a cable or clean out an existing unit? I already have a bowden cable and a lock actuator ready, but I'm not even sure if that's the problem since its the locking mechanism that's shot - I can't insert the key in, and when I could (about 10+ months ago), it could not turn all the way.

 

Thank you for pointing to this post! I have been looking for this solution since i bought my daughter a mini a month ago and the passenger door was stuck shut and locked. NO ONE could fix it. Thanks again!

 

"Catch with code" is "you give us your VIN and we give you a lock that works with your existing key".

"Catch with key" is "we give you a lock and a couple of those plastic emergency keys that work in it".

You can also buy "catch with key", then disassemble and move the wafers from your old lock over into the new one...

 

Have exactly the same issue/ R53 2003 190k km.
Before buying I checked the left driver's actuator itself and it is working properly. Both motors are working and reacting the same on 12V. All 3 switches also work.
All cables are ok. Mechanically everything is ok.

So after I put it back it started working randomly. E.g. opening or closing only after 3rd time of pressing the button. Issue stayed the same + now I have this random not closing or not opening issue without a certain pattern.

Will try to reinitialize remote (scheme found in this thread) and check if BCU is wet.

 

2003 R50 5spd 65k. Bought the car with the driver side panel off and driver door wont open. Hatch wont open either unless I pull under the rear seat. After looking through this thread I will go back and assess the driver door. Does anyone have experience with the rear hatch no unlocking in R50's? Any Help is appreciated

 

Did you get the door open? if so how? my actuator died today and will not unlatch. have inside of door torn apart and have flipped every moving part on the actuator - cannot get it to let go. if i can't figure this out i would guess i'll actually have to cut it all apart to remove it and pull another door from the savage yard.

 

I don’t have answers to your question; hopefully someone else here does.

But before you cut things apart, you might consider asking a body shop to open it. They usually have some tricks up their sleeve.

 

yeah i'll def be asking around before i go and do that haha.

 

Hello, I read all 20 pages of this thread and did not see a description that matches my issue. 2005 R53, this issue existed since I bought it with 128k miles, now at 145k miles.

I am trying to get my power door locks to work, they currently do not.

The symptoms:
1. I have never gotten the remote key fob to do anything. Does not lock or unlock driver door, passenger door or hatch.
2. The dashboard toggle switch locks and unlocks the hatch. It does not lock or unlock the driver door or passenger door.
3. Passenger door locks manually by pushing down the pin. It unlocks manually on first pull of inside door handle. Inside and outside handles work correctly.
4. Driver door locks and unlocks manually with the key. It also locks manually pushing down the pin and unlocks with first pull of inside handle. Inside and outside handles work correctly.
5. Driver and passenger windows dip when the doors are opened and closed, so I know the driver and passenger door module wiring is working for that function.

Things I have done to address this in order (admittedly not the best troubleshooting order. I am a parts replacer not a technician)
1. Checked all fuses in footwell fuse panel and engine bay fuse panel. All fuses checked good.
2. Got replacement driver and passenger door modules from a parts car that I parted out. Power lock and unlock with dash toggle switch worked on the parts car before I removed them.
3. Installed replacement driver and passenger door modules on my car, no change to symptoms on my car. Window dips still work, power lock and unlock with dash toggle switch still does not work.
4. Bench tested the door modules that came with my car that I removed. Applied 12v to pins 4 and 7, passenger module power locked and unlocked full motion. Driver module locked and unlocked with weak motion.
5. Checked for voltage on the harness at driver door module connector pins 4 and 7 while operating dash toggle switch. No voltage at the harness connector. Hatch was locking and unlocking while doing this check so the toggle switch is operating.
6. Had @megaDan hook up to the car with INPA and BMW Scanner. Nothing helpful found.

What I'm thinking for next steps:
1. Confirm continuity of the harness between BCM connector and door harness connector for pins 4 and 7 to both doors.
2. Confirm voltage at BCM pins for hatch lock and unlock while operating dash toggle switch, a function known to work.
3. Check for voltage at BCM pins for door lock and unlock while operating dash toggle switch. If there is no output here, that to me would point to the BCM failing to perform this function.

Is there anything else I can check or troubleshoot for this issue? If it is a BCM issue is there any way to fix it or would I need to replace and get it programmed? Thanks!

 

We did get a "FUSE 30CDL" error. HEX DTC A3 (163). Google search has turned up absolutely nothing on this code. As nice as it is to get specific DTC's, I haven't found anything on decoding them. So while we have a coded description of the problem, we're no closer to solving the issue. Thanks for nothing, BMW SCANNER.

Fuse 30 is not identified as being associated with the central locking per Bentley. On the fuse panel cover it shows the instrument cluster, but the fuse space is blank (not even a socket). So the "30CDL" could be code for something else entirely.

 

@megadan found a link to this site for BMW codes. "A3" returns as fuse central locking for a module code, bc1rd, that seems to correspond to the R53 BCM.

https://bmwfault.codes/