Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
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Door lock problems

  #476  
Old 10-26-2017, 02:42 AM
mrriverajr
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Thank you very much
 
  #477  
Old 10-28-2017, 08:41 AM
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dmoore
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My guess is the actuator. I've done both sides on my daughters mini. If you want new OEM parts, try www.advantageBMWparts.com out of Houston. They seem to have pretty good online prices. As far as doing it, I have found that www.pelicanparts.com has pretty good online instructions under the "How To" section of their website.
 
  #478  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mrriverajr View Post
Thank you very much
yep
 
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  #479  
Old 03-15-2018, 08:37 AM
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I am having an issue somewhat different to all of the other one's I have read. '02 MCS - both doors lock AND unlock with the key fob and central locking toggle switch. The door lock plunger that goes up when the door is unlocked and down when the door is locked works on the passenger side. The drivers side plunger is always down (in the locked position) whether the door is locked or unlocked. I cannot lock/unlock the doors using the drivers door key hole. The key DOES NOT rotate 360 degrees. It turns left and right normally, but the door lock is unresponsive. If the drivers door is locked, pulling the interior door handle once does unlock the door, but as I mentioned the plunger remains down. Both door's interior and exterior door handles work properly. Anyone know what could cause this?
 
  #480  
Old 03-15-2018, 10:26 AM
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If it were me, instead of asking in hope for a answer, I would just start to pull the door card out to see. It has to be mechanical, and should be very obvious once you are able to see the mechanism. It is like a popped shoulder joint.
 
  #481  
Old 04-27-2018, 11:26 AM
beeniecmc777
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Door Lock Problems

'03 MC, passenger side door. Drivers side has issues too.
 
  #482  
Old 07-16-2018, 03:32 PM
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thevastdifference
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I own a pre-Jan 2002 R53, and my driver's side key hole flap and possibly the rest of the lock were damaged. My car's keyfob can unlock/lock the car remotely (all doors)- but the driver's side only opens from the inside when the car has been unlocked, but can be opened from the outside once the first unlock pull has been initiated. I noticed there are two parts listed on realoem.com - A catch with code and a catch with key:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7750

What is the difference between part 51217074428 (Catch with code) and 51217074440 (Catch with key)? Which catch would I need?
Is it a possibility I might just need to reattach a cable or clean out an existing unit? I already have a bowden cable and a lock actuator ready, but I'm not even sure if that's the problem since its the locking mechanism that's shot - I can't insert the key in, and when I could (about 10+ months ago), it could not turn all the way.
 
  #483  
Old 07-29-2018, 05:12 PM
huskey
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Originally Posted by gknorr View Post
Check out this thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-solution.html

Might help...

Thank you for pointing to this post! I have been looking for this solution since i bought my daughter a mini a month ago and the passenger door was stuck shut and locked. NO ONE could fix it. Thanks again!
 
  #484  
Old 11-07-2018, 06:44 AM
DrZ
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Originally Posted by thevastdifference View Post
I own a pre-Jan 2002 R53, and my driver's side key hole flap and possibly the rest of the lock were damaged. My car's keyfob can unlock/lock the car remotely (all doors)- but the driver's side only opens from the inside when the car has been unlocked, but can be opened from the outside once the first unlock pull has been initiated. I noticed there are two parts listed on realoem.com - A catch with code and a catch with key:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7750

What is the difference between part 51217074428 (Catch with code) and 51217074440 (Catch with key)? Which catch would I need?
Is it a possibility I might just need to reattach a cable or clean out an existing unit? I already have a bowden cable and a lock actuator ready, but I'm not even sure if that's the problem since its the locking mechanism that's shot - I can't insert the key in, and when I could (about 10+ months ago), it could not turn all the way.
"Catch with code" is "you give us your VIN and we give you a lock that works with your existing key".

"Catch with key" is "we give you a lock and a couple of those plastic emergency keys that work in it".

You can also buy "catch with key", then disassemble and move the wafers from your old lock over into the new one...
 
  #485  
Old 11-14-2018, 03:08 AM
sugar.r53
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Originally Posted by tga3 View Post
I have same symptoms reported by edkim, pimpedout97x, and dustinhxc on page 4 of this thread:
  • Driver's door will not unlock with the remote or dash switch. (I have to use the key in the driver's door to open it).
  • Driver's door will not lock with the switch or at speed
  • HOWEVER, the driver's door will lock with the remote.
Have exactly the same issue/ R53 2003 190k km.
Before buying I checked the left driver's actuator itself and it is working properly. Both motors are working and reacting the same on 12V. All 3 switches also work.
All cables are ok. Mechanically everything is ok.

So after I put it back it started working randomly. E.g. opening or closing only after 3rd time of pressing the button. Issue stayed the same + now I have this random not closing or not opening issue without a certain pattern.

Will try to reinitialize remote (scheme found in this thread) and check if BCU is wet.
 
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