I searched through ten pages of posts and still cannot find what I'm looking for, so I'm posting it here.

My '03 MCS w/ 75k is having problems with the door locks. Here is the progression of events:

First:
The driver's door stopped locking/unlocking with the remote. Everything else OK

Next:
Passenger's door stopped locking/unlocking with remote, toggle switch began to be flaky on both doors, key in lock still OK for both doors

Current:
1) Remote- does not lock/unlock either door (remote works, locks trunk/lowers windows)
2) Dash toggle switch- does not lock/unlock either door
3) Key in lock-only unlocks driver's door, pass door must be opened physically from the inside with the handle

I found a number of posts about people complaining about this issue, and vague references to "changing a regulator". If anyone has actually done this themselves and can provide part numbers it would be greatly appreciated. Its driving my crazy.

 

My 03' pass side door lock also won't work with remote or the toggle. Any assistance would be helpful!!! Someones got to know whats going on with this issue.

 

Anyone? I know others have run into this...

 

Hello? Pretty please? A link to a previous thread? Part numbers? Anything???

 

Mine started as Passenger door wouldnt unlock or lock with remote or toggle

As a check I removed fuse and replaced

Now passenger the same but drivers wont lock by either method but unlocks just fine with either.

I am going to try the battery reset tonight but I am thinking that will do nothing.

HELP

 

I had the same issue, starting after I had aftermarket speakers put in the doors. The remote would not lock/unlock the driver side door. I was also having the infamous radiator fan relay problem where the fan will not shut off unless you pull the plug that provides the power. I brought the car to the dealer and they fixed the problem. It cost me a couple hundred bucks.

 

Do you recall what they "fixed"

 

does anyone have any answers to this problem? My car just started doing this same thing on just the drivers side door.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...k-problem.html

Having same problem; I expect to have to go through the above procedure.

- Matt

 

I'm in the same boat as well. Probably pulling the actuator today and seeing if there is any way to take it apart and fix it. I hear the unlock noise, but something is not lining up right to make it happen.

 

Mine is in the shop right now getting both lock actuators (and the pass. window motor) replaced - about $1200.00! Yay extended warranty!

 

Information from an earlier post

1. Taking off the door panel. I used a small screw driver covered in tape so as not to scratch anything. I used that to take off the reflector.
2. Removing the short and long screws require a Torq 40 driver.
3. Releasing the door trim can be done by hand which is the method I prefer because nothing will be scratched. You can use a flat bladed object covered in tape and a screw driver covered in tape if you are having a hard time getting the panel off. Just pull it out and you will hear the clips unlocking.
4. Raise the door trim so that it clears the manual lock and then pull towards you to release the clips. The trim around the door handle will pop out on it's own.
5. Disconnecting cables #2 and #3 (from pics on this thread)was done by pulling away from actuator.
6. #4 is a Tork screw(sorry forgot the size) that you remove to release the cable.
7. #5 is release by puling down on connection.
8. #1 requires you to now release the door actuator from the 3 Tork 30 screw on the outside of the door. Hold onto the actuator so it does not fall and angle the bottom of the unit toward the outside of the door while sliding down.
9. You now have taken the unit out but I needed to unscrew the window rail from underneath the door to pull it toward the inside to give me more room to slide out. This was the hardest part because it touches the outside of the door and can leave dents if not careful.
10. Before sliding the new actuator in I found it easier to take the door handle off, disconnect the door lock cable, remove cable, and connect it to #2( the end of the cable hooks onto a hook inside of the actuator).
11. Screw #4 onto new unit.
12. Remove the plastic cable holder from the old one and put on the new one.
13. Slide the unit back in on an angle while pulling the window rail towards you.
14. Slide the unit up with the bottom angled toward the front of the door and with your hand guide #1 into position.
15. Screw actuator back onto door( not tight yet).
16. Connect cable to #4 and make sure it looks like photo on this thread.
17. Run door lock cable through the back of the window rail to the hole leading back to the handle. There is a clip for the cable next to #2 on the inside door that you want to make sure it is clipped to.
18. Reattach the door handle.
19. Connect #5.
20. Tighten door actuator.
21. Line up rail to original mark and tighten.
22. Lower window slightly to make sure it is functional.
23. Sit in driver's side and close door.
24. Use toggle switch to see if locks work.
25. Get out of vehicle and lower passenger window ( don't want to get lock out until you know it is working).
26. Use key to lock and unlock door.
27. Place key into lock to lock and unlock.
28. Success!

There are 5 connections that need to be removed and re-connected to the new actuator (they are labeled on the picture 1-5).
1) connection to key slot for manual key operation
2) cable from the inside door handle
3) connection from the door lock button
4) cable coming from door handle
5) electrical connection (not visible in the first picture - blocked by the window rail- but shown clearly on the new one)

The actuator is hold in place by 3 screws accessible from outside. Once I remove them, the actuator hangs by the above connections. The easiest to remove is number 3; you just pull it... Electrical connection seems easy as well; just pull it hard.









Last edited by volki : 10-06-2007 at 03:23 PM.

A couple of additions to this great write up:

The new actuators come with a larger plastic flap that covers the bowden cable end completely (#2 in the 1st picture) - this should assist in keeping it in place - one of the early problems on the door locks.

From the above description the #1 connection just slides in/out of place - as the 3 bolts holding the actuator in place are removed you can slide it down inside the door and that connection slides out of the the cross shaped recepticle. You don't need to take off the outer door handle.

On conneciton #4 I found it easier to put the actuator in place and then hook up the bowden cable to the lever and then screw the lever in place - took very little time (your new actuator re-uses the lever (#4) from your old actuator). Be sure you note how the bowden cable is routed and copy it when you replace everything.

It took me about 1.5 hours to replace the actuator - would take less the second time around - the write up is right on target and made the replacement easy. I purchased the new actuator from Pelican (no affiliation) and got the part number from REALOEM.com - just need to put in the last 7 of the VIN and the site pulls up the specks on your car - makes it real easy to get the right part the first time.

Hope this helps - Cheers.

 

Nosiwl, that's a great post.

I went to the mechanic today to get a new actuator for my passenger-side door. $102 for the part (Mini's price) and $140 for labor

Was that reasonable? I'm trying to find a good mechanic that's reasonable-- Mini dealers are outrageous. And I would probably destroy the door if I attempted this myself.

edit:

oh, hell yes-- my mechanic is way reasonable!

 

HOLY SH*t that's alot of freaking steps =\ freaking me out!! that part is $100? are we sure this is the reaosn why the door wont unlock but will lock?

that's what mines does.. it locks, but doens't unlock.

 

Where did you get the actuator for $102? Mine just failed and the closest dealer to me wants $180.