'05 MCSc. New addition to the family. Passenger lock only works manually, no switch or remote. Known problem on purchase.

Bought the actuator from Classic Mini (quick response, great price). Completed disassembly (thanks to excellent instructions in this thread) *except* I was unable to get the old actuator out, even after loosening the bottom bolt and sliding the window track. Any hints on exactly how to angle the actuator to remove? Do I need to remove the outer door cable arm (#4 on Volki's photo in post #126)?

 

Yes you must remove #4, then it still takes some fussing around to get out even with my small hands. The last thing I would try to do is remove the wiring harness #5. If you break that plastic clip that is locked on, it is toast and you are basically buying a new wiring harness. At least that is what I did.

 

Thanks for the confirmation and also the warning about the wiring harness. Although I enjoy working on my cars, it's always frustrating to create new problems while fixing old ones ...

 

Well, add me to the passenger door failing. All else still works.

The passenger door will not lock or unlock using the remote or center dash switch. It will also not auto lock at 10mph. There is no apparent noise coming from inside the passenger door.

It will manually lock by pressing down the plunger and manually unlock with the first pull of the inside handle.

It will also manually unlatch with the outside handle and with the second pull of the inside handle.

It is the coldest weather it has been since I owned the MINI. Today being our first snow fall of the season. Possibly it is temp related?

I have read thru this thread, and found it unclear at times (people write "unlocked" when possibly it is really "unlatched" they meant).

Would it be correct to predict that the power actuator itself failed (and not some cable coming loose)?

 

Yes. This is exactly how mine behaved.

Doubt it is temp related, but if you park somewhere warm and it works, then I'm wrong.

When my passenger side failed, I waited 3 days, ordered the part, and it started working again the next day,
as if it knew I was going to remove it!
When it went out for good a few months later, I replaced it.

 

Well, the weather warmed up since yesterday, and guess what. My passenger door power lock is back working again.

I'm not sure what to think now.

 

I found that out yesterday too.

I thought that possibly cycling the door locks a few times, would result in the passenger door lock being "kick started" back into work again. I will admit, I initially panic when all the locks stopped working!

 

It will probably die for good sooner or later. If you order or get the
part in anticipation, it will probably last longer before doing that .
If you won't be in a hurry to fix it when it goes out, wait until it starts giving problems again.
It might be a good idea to get the three torx screws that hold it to the door when you get the actuator.
Some of mine got a little messed up when I took out the old actuators and put in the new ones.
They're cheap. P# 51212754815 for mine.

 

'03 MCS - 85k miles - Drivers door inop, Pass door inop. Either with remote or switch on console. Can only unlock / lock manually. Hatch still locks / unlocks with remote or console switch.


Anyone? Any clues? Controller? Actuators? It's at the dealer now. I guess they'll let me know once it's sorted out. Otherwise the car super clean.....

 

It's likely the actuators (built into the latch in the door), as these go much
more frequently than the electronics that drive them.

 

Thanks for the info, Cristo. That settles the mind a little bit. I asked for a "worst case scenario" , but I know it's hard to diagnose without touching. They (the dealer) told me to expect $380 per side for new actuators, IF that is the cause.

 

Let's see. $130 for the part, $250 for a couple hours labour including diagnosis. Yep, that's about $380 per side at the dealer.
If you're handy and read the earlier pages of this thread to what you're in for, you could save $500 doing it yourself.
You could do one side first to see how hard it is. Less expense if you end up buying the part and find out it's something else wrong.
The passenger side is a little easier to do (one less mechanical connection), but the driver's side gets used more,
so which to do first is much of a muchness.

 

Has anyone seen this problem (I searched but didn't find anything):

http://vimeo.com/17830663



Lock/unlock in quick succession when you use the switch or fob button. Sometimes it will end up unlocked. No problems with the internal handle.

It could be that there is a position sensor in the lock mechanism, or something wrong with the module controlling the lock.

I hooked up the autoengenuity to it but didn't see anything obvious in the errors .

Thanks for any thought

 

It's already in the dealer's shop. Thanks for the insider info though, and I've already been hit in the head with the diagnostic shop rates....

 

Dealer in Greenville, SC quoted me $450 ea, book rate, no discounts.

 

Hi Fishey72, that $380 I was quoted did not include the NYS sales tax. That should take it to just over $400.... I'll pay. I can't do the manual lock / unlock thing. It's 22F degrees up here today and before I know it, some time during the winter I'm sure I'd put the key in the door and find the cylinder to be full of ice, so I'll just have to go into my pocket.

I'll just get the SONY Playstation 3 during the "After Christmas Sales".

 

They must have a more expensive book . . . gold gilding on the paper edges, embossed monogram on a leather cover, hand sewn binding, etc.

 

got my actuator in the mail today. going to be replacing it this evening :-)

 

Hello everyone,

I'm on the same boat (sorta).

Mine is a MCS 2002 Hot Chili with just under 72K miles on it and my driver side lock behaves kind of differently than all of yours.

In my case the driver side door...

1. Locks and unlocks manually with the key either CW or CCW
2. Locks but does not unlock with the Key Remote
3. Does not lock or unlock with the center switch
4. Does not auto-lock at 10 Mph (the passenger side locks ok)
5. Unlocks at the second pull of the inside handle
6. Installed an aftermarket security system (Viper) that does lock everything including driver side door and closes windows/panoramic sunroof. (this problem was present before this installation btw)

So, what puzzles me is that how come I can electronically close the lock (via original key remote or Viper remote) but not through the inside locking switch or automatic at 10 Mph? (keep in mind that remotes, panel switch and 10 Mph auto work on the passenger side lock so the switch is functional)

And finally electronic UNLOCKING does not work at all on that door!

So, in this scenario, the actuator, cables, electronics, switch, etc seem to be ok to lock the car (at least with the remotes), just the electronic unlocking of that door seems to be bad.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance and happy holidays!!!

Rayan

 

swapped out the drivers side tonight after work.
took 1 hour and works perfect now :-D

 

Congrats! By the way, I didn't look back in the thread. Were both door locks not working with the console switch and key remotes??

 

Central door locking module??? I'm just guessing...

 

Central door locking module??? I'm just guessing...

 

drivers side was completely dead. only thing that worked was the external key and inside handle pull to unlock.

passanger has been working perfect

 

Rayanmx Sounds like you need a door lock actuator too, your list points to it alone being failed, but while your doing it go ahead and replace the cable, its cheap and you'll already have it out.

Actuator
http://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-door-actuator.html

Cable
http://www.waymotorworks.com/product...9&cat=0&page=1