Hi guys, I am new to mini, I build Jeeps for extreme offroad, however I got a fun little 2011 S coupe (N18 motor), and got the half engine power light. the car went to half power and limped home. The next day car ran fine, then car died, no codes or check engine light. car just cranked and sputtered, but never ran. It has 90k on ticker, so I First Replaced coil packs, plugs, no change, car would not start. Replaced High pressure and in tank pump(I'm the type of guy that if one is bad, the second will soon follow. I replace both). After pumps were replaced, Car cranks, it has spark, still no start. Disconnected fuel(HP) line to see if fuel is making its way to motor. no fuel coming. Pulled the electrical plug on the in-tank fuel pump. test light and meter detects no power.(key on and start button pushed, but not cranking). pulled the fuel pump relay,(4 pin) tested it with meter, good readings, applied power, it clicks ect. Tested the socket where the fuel pump relay plugs in. I have 12+ voltage at two prongs. The fuse is good, tested it, it has power. So somewhere im not getting power from relay to pump, wires are all good, no observed shorts. any Ideas? relay under hood?

 

If it went into limp mode, am pretty sure you have a code stored. Without it, could be a zillion different things. Chances are it's a BMW specific code that will have to be read by a dealer or independent that has the right tools.

 

What I was afraid of. The car will run as I have safely connected a wire from the (hot pin 30) from the relay socket to the power of the fuel pump and (grounded the fuel pump at chassis) when I tried jumping the pins 30 and 87(the switch on relay) I still get no power to the fuel pump. something a muck or some component is overriding(cutting power) to the pump.

 

I know I could search, but asking the do-it-yourselfers is there an affordable Mini specific scan tool? or is this a dealer only device?

 

with the fuel pump directly wired, I still have the half colored engine light, drove it around the block, of course the abs, brake, wipers wont turn off, traction control, tire light on, but I noticed the cooling fans would not turning on, so parked it immediately. This tells me this fuel pump issue is related, so it something electrical. by deductive reasoning if the the main ecu was bad, the car should not run at all. I'm just posting this so if someone else runs into this it may help in some way.

 

Drake,
Check out the JBE Fuse box in the passenger side footwell. It houses the fuel pump relay that controls the LPFP. Mine went bad and my engine would die intermittently. Mine was caused by water leaking in from the sunroof and corroded the connections and shorted it out. Check the fuse first of course but see if you get any juice coming from the connector itself. You can use new TIS Info ( link below) to help you trace the wires. You can then rule out the signal wire coming from the DME and the current going out. You should be able to see if the JBE is bad. Nothing else went bad on mine at all just the fuel pump relay. It is not the big black removable relay that some articles refer too. The K96 relay is soldered to the board and not easily replaced. Should be similar for your coupe. mine was a R56 hartop. Replace with a exact match JBE and it will be plug and play. I found a used one for $125.


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-pump/CkMjECaN

 

Yay, for another jeep guy.. having a similar issue, and we have a sun roof too. no power 2 the fuel pump fuse, after reading this gonna pull the fuse box and take a look see.

 

What about bypassing a relay around the JBE and disable the fuel pump relay from the JBE altogether. Would that be a viable solution? Thinking about doing this. Will post results.

 

Interested to see if this works for ya. I think you would have to know what other systems this would affect. For example, when I replaced the the relay with a generic one in the fuse box, my wipers would not turn off. I would think you would need to trace all the wires that come from computer under hood, to JBE, then set up your "external relay" then mate it with the wires coming from the JBE to fuel pump. if the k 96 only innervates the fuel pump, it should work with no codes, thats a big IF

 

Take a look at this post. This is what i went through this fall. Finally replaced the whole JBE after I didn't feel like chasing down the relay and de soldering the multi level circuit board. The relay again is not on the front you have to take it out of the black plastic enclosure to find it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ns-wanted.html

 

had the car towed to p and w mini cooper of pitts the dealer said the reason is the air box tube to the turbo is cracked ??? wtf i'm confused


update the dealer service report stated that, the engine was flooded with gas ?? and the engine had no compression wtf !!! they put oil in the cylinders and and got compression,, starts great now. cost me 153 $ plus tax an add ons. I had the fuel line unhooked at the sub frame and never got gas to come out , so what happened ??