next item to fix is leaking oil pump solenoid valve
Part doesnt cost to much but dealer wants about 900 to fix it. i have a couple independent shops i may bring it to, so i dont have to try and replace it off my back in the drive way.
I find bits and pieces of how to do it but not anything comprehensive. looking at exploded diagrams it looks like it stabs into the oil pump with a mounting screw, the cable feeds through the pan i presume, and connects somewhere? Dealer says they gotta take out passenger side axle, drop pan, etc.

 

What year and model : there was a TSB for the newer models SIM 11 01 12

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...noid-leak.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oil-leaks.html

 

yes, that is the part i had thought to be replaced,
2011 r56 s n18 64k miles

what are the chances of getting it fixed via the tsb, i will mention it to them, i bought the car with about 30k miles so i'm not sure it has ever been done.

 

See if you fall under the TSB first, they should have found that when they looked up the part.

 

will do, it is at dealership now for the other issue.
i mentioned to the service writer that it had also been noted during the diagnoses from a different mini dealership. I will write down the TSB # and bring it with me.

i looked up the part on your website*

 

Welcome. Let me know how it goes.

 

I replaced mine. It was not to hard a job. The biggest problem was that I have a 2013, and the oil pan is glued on. That means you need to buy a cutter tool to remove the pan. And then spend all day long trying to get all the glue off. The earlier cars have a gasket and should be much easier. The solenoid has been revised many times. My new one is holding up fine.

 

Yea, the newer cars have the sealed pan , pain to pry off.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-cause-2.html

83190404517




VS




You can still get the older regular gasket. 11137565928

 

thanks J, so does an axle need to come out or no?
i'll grab the solenoid, pan gasket, and plan on doing an oil change at the same time.
Is there anything else i should look out for while i'm under there?

 

I'm curious about this too. I'm getting ready to tackle this tomorrow on a 2013 Justa.

 

Yes the axle has to come out. I also put a new axle nut on when it all went back together.

 

You could save yourself a lot of mess and a lot of time by just installing the repair kit, which doesn't require the removal of the oil pan.

We stock the repair kit, it costs about $70 and takes about 1.5 hours to install on a bad day.

We have been installing them like crazy for the past year and a half or so now, and for FAR cheaper than $900 with FAR less mess and hassle.

The repair kit requires you to do some soldering and wire chasing, but a multimeter will make quick work of finding what you need to tap into on the DME harness.

 

Does Detroit Tuned still make the repair kit? My GP2 is leaking. Searched on the page and no hits.