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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
OK, so it won't start. I checked the fuse and voltage to fuel pump relay (and swapped relay with another just to double check) all appear good. If I dump a little gas in the air intake the car will start and run a few seconds. My question is where is the fuel pump, how hard is it to change and is there anything I might be missing that might be causing my fuel pump not to run? Any help would be appreciated.
Well, not right now. It has 1/2 a tank BUT a week or two ago the wife ran it down to empty. I guess that may have hurt it. I cannot hear the pump which was my first hint that was my problem when I got home. Too funny, I just came across that write up. I wasn't feeling good about changing it myself until I saw that. I found some other write ups that were discouraging. Thanks for the tip!
The fuel runs through the pump and acts as a lubricant and coolant for the entire assembly. So, if you let your car run out of gas you might damage the internal components of the pump.
Update. I read somewhere you can reach under the car and punch the gas tank and the car will start, darn if it didn't work. Hit the tank under the car just in front of the rear driver side tire. Still going to change the pump but its a tip for someone that needs to get home. At least you won't be stranded on the road side.
Update. I read somewhere you can reach under the car and punch the gas tank and the car will start, darn if it didn't work. Hit the tank under the car just in front of the rear driver side tire. Still going to change the pump but its a tip for someone that needs to get home. At least you won't be stranded on the road side.
Love it! I "Fonzie" my window now if need be can do the pump too.
Alright! Pump and filter changed today. Took under 2 hours to do both. Thanks to the link above it made it very easy to change pump! Back on the road! And actually the filter was harder to change than the pump and nasty after 268,000 miles, first filter change. That thing is a bear to open to get to the filter. Then I thought I broke the sending unit on the bottom of its canister but everything was good. 268,000 miles shooting for 300,000!
Had the same crank but no fire problem. Tried everything and stumbled upon the Fonzie. Just "Fonzied" my 04 with 86k and it actually worked. I've also done for my window. Who knew my fist would be the most valuable tool in my toolbox?!?
Love it! I "Fonzie" my window now if need be can do the pump too.
Was having problems with my 2005 Mini Cooper SR53. Had spark, but it seemed that it wasnt getting fuel. Checked relays and fuses. Bought a new coil and spark plugs(which it needed the spark plugs). Was reading all of these Mini forums, and stumbled upon the "Fonz" manuver, and sure enough, it worked! So, thanks again to all of the Mini owners who add to these forums, you rock!
2005 MCS... otherwise top condition.... Fuel pump stopped working... hence the car stopped working when I went to start it in the morning. ZERO indication of any problem the evening before when parked.
Since the often unwise (or just non service oriented) BMW engineers designed the W11 with a fuel pressure test port UNDER the darn intercooler... you have to remove the intercooler, hook up the fuel pressure test kit... and then re-install the IC, run the test... then do it all over again to remove the test hose.... typical german engineering HA...
I could not hear the typical momentary fuel prime cycle with the switch in the run position..... (fuel pump runs for a second or two when ign switched on).... I knew SOMETHING was keeping the pump from running or the pump itself had issues.
Some other things I checked first... (F20 fuse inside the car, left footwell fuse panel (good fuse) .... plus lower green relay in the same fuse panel.... swap to test.... NO luck).
Took another car to work... pondered it... ran across this thread...
Tried the "Fonzie" move above... It runs !!
Of course, It is NOT fixed and I'm ordering a new OEM-VDO/Conti pump for it... Easy install ... and will pop in a new fuel filter on the other side of the tank at the same time !!
Rear seat bottom was easy to remove..... fold both front seats fwd, move them all the way fwd, pop off the Child seat anchor housings (AKA ISOFIX) (have a good wide plastic pry tool recommended)... pull up firmly on the front of the cushion while pushing the cushion towards the rear....then push down on the center of the back of the bottom cushion and pivot up till the cushion comes un-clipped.
PULL THE ISOFIX FIRST (she does not in this video, you can break the housings or tear your upolstery ...or the seat might not come out or might bend the wire frame fo the seat base)
03-20-2013, 04:15 PM
