Originally Posted by MINIMI2

My 2010 S went with no indication at all, no rattle, no bang it just shut off and yellow check engine light came on. (after it died) Checked on board computer, came back CHECK OK. Ran code reader and got 3 or 4 temporary codes, relating to cam position and valve timing. Temporary, meaning these codes had not set as permanent`, they were pending, meaning they occurred when the timing chain sprocket separated from the cam. Simple terms , there were no prior codes before failure. How much trust do put in an on board computer that tells you your engine is OK when your looking at the timing chain and cam sprocket at the bottom of the timing cover! I can see your point about a bad oil filter or botched install being the instigator of so many VC failures. Mine was oem filter, with oil at top of stick. Mini had car for 5 days when we went back to dealer to get Answers. Warranty was 6K miles over, but 2 months under on duration. Service advisor and Lead shop tech took us out to car to tell us the bad news. They said they couldn't help us on a new motor due to low oil and lack of maintenance. I asked the shop tech. to pull the dip stick and show me where it was low. He looked at the service advisor and choked, he said oil level was good and appeared to have been changed recently. ( 2 weeks prior to failure). He also mentioned how clean the engine bay was. I showed them the maintenance schedule I used for the car. 5K miles or less on oil changes with Mini filters. Not their condition based changes at 15 to 18,000 miles. Long story but ended with mini putting in a factory rebuilt and I still payed $350.00 for their bad engineering. And no, they wouldn't replace the computer that couldn't self diagnose a dead car.

Originally Posted by lorenfb

"you will see that the vacuum pump, gets it's oil feed through the rear bearing journal in the cylinder head, from the exhaust camshaft bearing journal supply feed line"

This is not correct. The vacuum pump utilizes a double sealed bearing which DOESN'T
receive ANY lubrication and just relies on its initial bearing grease. To imply that
frequent oil changes will reduce the likelihood of the vacuum pump failing is totally
misleading. There is NO oil flow to lubricate bearing!

The only immediate and realistic solution is a redesigned vacuum pump where the
connection point from the cam shaft can shear easily if the bearing seizes.

Originally Posted by JaY mini

I just wanna say real quick... I bought my first Mini Cooper 2 weeks ago, it had a vacuum code so I went to take it off while watching a YouTube video telling me how, well I accidentally took it apart trying to take it off of the block. It had oil in it so I drained it thinking that was the problem... Turned out that it's supposed to have oil in. Mine is the 2008 Mini Cooper S N14.

Originally Posted by IDLife Mini

I have spent the better part of 12+ hours reading every possible thread I can find about the vacuum pump. I thought I was having the "Death Rattle" and simply watched a few too many videos from threads talking about timing chain failures... yet all of this originated from seeing drips of oil on the ground closer to the passenger side of the car.

So a quick call to BMP Designs in Tyler Texas sourced me with their timing chain repair kit with everything and at the same time I ordered the two vacuum pump o-rings. WELL... weeks later when I finally have time to dive into this, I discover a bigger issue and definitely one that needs repair immediately.

After seeing the replacement of the mechanical pump with an electric one, I feel this is by far the best route to go. However, I am wondering if an expanding freeze plug would suffice in blocking the original mounting port for the vacuum pump. I can buy for $10 a plug that will fit perfectly, expand to lock itself into place which will also block the oil passage. Any opinions on this? I can indeed get some aluminum bar, turn it on my lathe and put a bolt through it as an attachment for the mounting plate... but I am trying to make a fix that anyone could do with readily available parts.

So that turns me to the new vacuum source. Well having two 7.3L Ford Diesels, you eventually after 300K+ miles of great service will have to replace the vacuum pump that controls the HVAC motors & 4x4 if you have auto locking hubs. This is a self-contained vacuum pump with an internal vacuum switch, turns on at 13in off at 18-19in. These are designed to operate the auto locking hubs on a Ford 4x4 as well as the HVAC systems and a life design of 2000 hours running time. I have found them NEW with isolating mounts for $54.00 at the local auto parts store. Since they were produced for millions of vehicles made by both Ford & Dodge in extreme conditions of off-roading, I am certain this little pump will suffice on my MINI's road trips. Best part is that if it does fail... nearly every auto parts store in the country has them in stock!

See the pics for more details. The pump weighs less than 10oz, so including the loss of drag on the cam and the weight savings... maybe there's a boost in performance by having stable vacuum supply as well!

Any thoughts on this old thread?

Originally Posted by pkgmSu2000

holy!!!!

these N14/N18 engines have been around a long time with so many on the road. There HAS TO BE an aftermarket solution out there. There are soooo many trusted Mini tech gurus that know these cars like the back of…

if there is a legit vacuum pump fix, even someone engineers a one off, I’ve got legit $$$$ for you.

Originally Posted by njaremka

Here's my solution... regular oil changes, and don't let it sit - drive it. My 2012 N18 R55 Clubman was purchased with 32,000 miles on it, and I drove it till it read out at 205,000 miles. All original timing chain, all original vacuum pump, and even the HPFP ran that whole time after being replaced at 36,000 miles. I religiously changed the oil every 5000 miles, and the car never sat for more than a week without being driven.

Originally Posted by njaremka

Here's my solution... regular oil changes, and don't let it sit - drive it. My 2012 N18 R55 Clubman was purchased with 32,000 miles on it, and I drove it till it read out at 205,000 miles. All original timing chain, all original vacuum pump, and even the HPFP ran that whole time after being replaced at 36,000 miles. I religiously changed the oil every 5000 miles, and the car never sat for more than a week without being driven.