Cold Start Issues Database
I've read most of this thread and haven't found the answer to my question. Please excuse if I missed it...I have a 2008 S Sidewalk Convertible, an R52 I believe it is. Does it have the engine that is giving the death start trouble? Mine has been quiet so far at 28K.
Thx Joe
Thx Joe
I've read most of this thread and haven't found the answer to my question. Please excuse if I missed it...I have a 2008 S Sidewalk Convertible, an R52 I believe it is. Does it have the engine that is giving the death start trouble? Mine has been quiet so far at 28K.
Thx Joe
Thx Joe
Nope, it's just the Gen. 2 cars.
Model: R56 MCS
Build Date: August 2007
Miles: 60,000
Duration: Until engine warms up
Frequency: Currently, every cold start.
RPM range: 500 - 3000
Ambient Temp: Any
Oil:
Any other relevant information: Tensioner replaced winter of 207-2008, timing chain has been replaced twice since. Issue still seems to return every 6-8 months.
Build Date: August 2007
Miles: 60,000
Duration: Until engine warms up
Frequency: Currently, every cold start.
RPM range: 500 - 3000
Ambient Temp: Any
Oil:
Any other relevant information: Tensioner replaced winter of 207-2008, timing chain has been replaced twice since. Issue still seems to return every 6-8 months.
Model: 2007 MCS
Build Date: October 2007
Miles: 50,000
Duration: Depending on sitting time but usually around 30 seconds to 2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Every time the car starts sometimes even after long (200 mile) trips
RPM range: 800 - 2000 rpm
Ambient Temp: range from 40 - 90 degrees
Oil: Fluid level full, Mobil 1
Any other relevant information: Conveniently starts at 50,000 miles. oddly enough just started having a chugging sensation as well, going to try the sea foam trick though to see if that makes any difference. Talked to the dealer and she told me to get the injectors cleaned.
Build Date: October 2007
Miles: 50,000
Duration: Depending on sitting time but usually around 30 seconds to 2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Every time the car starts sometimes even after long (200 mile) trips
RPM range: 800 - 2000 rpm
Ambient Temp: range from 40 - 90 degrees
Oil: Fluid level full, Mobil 1
Any other relevant information: Conveniently starts at 50,000 miles. oddly enough just started having a chugging sensation as well, going to try the sea foam trick though to see if that makes any difference. Talked to the dealer and she told me to get the injectors cleaned.
An engine with heavy intake valve deposits and clogged injectors will sound like it may have the timing chain issue. With your mileage the SeaFoam treatment may have to be done twice if it has never been done. SeaFoam will also clean the injectors. I would also add some Techron Fuel System Cleaner to the gas tank to help injector cleaning.
What Mobil 1 oil are you running and for how long before each change. I ask because most Mobil 1 oils are not BMW Long Life spec approved for this engine.
What Mobil 1 oil are you running and for how long before each change. I ask because most Mobil 1 oils are not BMW Long Life spec approved for this engine.
Somehow, with the R53's it is temperature related......
I ONLY have the cold start issue when ambient temps are between 65 and 71 degrees.
Any colder or warmer it starts right up first time. I wish I had more knowledge of the engine electronics and how it relates to the fuel and air mix when engine is cold. I am sure it has something to do with cold start settings as it reads outdoor or engine temps for initial start up.
I ONLY have the cold start issue when ambient temps are between 65 and 71 degrees.
Any colder or warmer it starts right up first time. I wish I had more knowledge of the engine electronics and how it relates to the fuel and air mix when engine is cold. I am sure it has something to do with cold start settings as it reads outdoor or engine temps for initial start up.
Model: 2009 Clubman S
Build Date: July 2009
Miles: 8,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Everytime the car is turned off for 3 hours or more
RPM range: < 800
Ambient Temp: 70-95 degrees
Oil: Not sure - only had one oil change performed by dealer
Build Date: July 2009
Miles: 8,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Everytime the car is turned off for 3 hours or more
RPM range: < 800
Ambient Temp: 70-95 degrees
Oil: Not sure - only had one oil change performed by dealer
An engine with heavy intake valve deposits and clogged injectors will sound like it may have the timing chain issue. With your mileage the SeaFoam treatment may have to be done twice if it has never been done. SeaFoam will also clean the injectors. I would also add some Techron Fuel System Cleaner to the gas tank to help injector cleaning.
What Mobil 1 oil are you running and for how long before each change. I ask because most Mobil 1 oils are not BMW Long Life spec approved for this engine.
What Mobil 1 oil are you running and for how long before each change. I ask because most Mobil 1 oils are not BMW Long Life spec approved for this engine.
clutchless,
I am running the Mobile one fully synthetic 5W-30. I had been having the dealerships do it, but to take a day off of work and pay them to do it....well it didn't make since. I found on a NAM thread that Mobile 1 is okay to use but it has to be fully synthetic....I don't know that much about oil though. I did the first SeaFoam treatment, and I had a little bit of improvement, but still get the CEL light. I will give it another treatment tomorrow. I couldn't get the engine to drown itself out when adding the Seafoam, but I couldn't beleive how loud it was when adding the Seafoam to the PCV pipe! What oil would you recommend? And should I change it after I do the next treatment? Thanks!
Model: 2009 Clubman S
Build Date: July 2009
Miles: 8,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Everytime the car is turned off for 3 hours or more
RPM range: < 800
Ambient Temp: 70-95 degrees
Oil: Not sure - only had one oil change performed by dealer
Build Date: July 2009
Miles: 8,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Everytime the car is turned off for 3 hours or more
RPM range: < 800
Ambient Temp: 70-95 degrees
Oil: Not sure - only had one oil change performed by dealer
Model: 2009 Clubman S
Miles: 3700 when purchased 10/2009, 19,700 10/2010
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) About half the time the car is started.
RPM range: anything above idle
Ambient Temp: any
Oil: "Mini oil" topped up with Mobil 1
Other Info: Complained shortly after the car was purchased. Was told by dealer that the oil level was low.
Complained 10/2010 when the car wanted it's oil changed. This time the dealer heard it while they had the car. Timing chain, tensioner and associated parts replaced only warranty. So far nice and quite.
Miles: 3700 when purchased 10/2009, 19,700 10/2010
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) About half the time the car is started.
RPM range: anything above idle
Ambient Temp: any
Oil: "Mini oil" topped up with Mobil 1
Other Info: Complained shortly after the car was purchased. Was told by dealer that the oil level was low.
Complained 10/2010 when the car wanted it's oil changed. This time the dealer heard it while they had the car. Timing chain, tensioner and associated parts replaced only warranty. So far nice and quite.
07 MCS
What's so amazing about the MINI after the HPFP was replaced? How did it affect the cold-start problem?
The salesman told me to drive with the sport button on all the time, otherwise it was almost too tricky to shift gears. I was told that this was normal for these cars. So I did that and the car was good, I just had to remember to set the sport button to on. Since the fuel pump was replaced, the car shifts are much smoother without the sport button on -- it shifts like a normal car (my skills have not improved). The tendency to stall at traffic light starts, with the sport button off, has ended.
You might have to wait for one at the dealer, I'm told they're in short supply. It could be the dealers are holding them for people with Minis that will not start at all (that is speculation, based on no information). They would not replace mine until I had a yellow check engine light.
Here we go in what way?
every year with the r56 as temps drop people will find the issue. i got mine sorted last year. best of luck to everyone who has to get their cars to "duplicate" the problem at the dealer. that seems to be ther bigger issue than the cold start. getting them to experience it and fix it! hopefully the next gen has it's winter testing done right.
Reminder for those who haven't already done so, can you please click on the following link and vote in the Cold Start poll...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rt-issues.html
Thanks
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rt-issues.html
Thanks
every year with the r56 as temps drop people will find the issue. i got mine sorted last year. best of luck to everyone who has to get their cars to "duplicate" the problem at the dealer. that seems to be ther bigger issue than the cold start. getting them to experience it and fix it! hopefully the next gen has it's winter testing done right.
Had it for a week. Took to dealer and they are replacing my chain tensioner,timing chain,and guide rails. Car sounded horrible would post video but I'm on my cellphone. Should I push for a hpfp I was throwing an air to file ratio code also when tensioner failed.
Model: 2009 Cooper S
Miles: 6,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Not really sure. I usually start the car, have a smoke, and then take off. It seems to do it when I just start the car and go, but not if I let it idle for 5 minutes or so. In the year I've had it, I've only heard it a half dozen times. My friend's 2009 JCW rattles as well.
RPM range: anything above idle
Ambient Temp: 60 - 90
Oil: Whatever it came with
Miles: 6,800
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) Not really sure. I usually start the car, have a smoke, and then take off. It seems to do it when I just start the car and go, but not if I let it idle for 5 minutes or so. In the year I've had it, I've only heard it a half dozen times. My friend's 2009 JCW rattles as well.
RPM range: anything above idle
Ambient Temp: 60 - 90
Oil: Whatever it came with
Model: 2008 Cooper S
Miles: 9767
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) About twice a week. More frequently as temp gets colder.
RPM range: 500<2500
Ambient Temp: mostly notice it when the temp is colder then 40's
Oil: Original MINI Oil
I just took mine in for maintenence and told the Service Manager about the cold start noise. Picked her up today and was told they didn't hear the noise, No faults were stored in system, and that this was typically a sign of early stages of carbon build up.
All they did was add a gas treatment. When I asked about SIM 110207, the service manager said that it didn't apply to my car since there was no fault recorded or service engine light indicator. He said they only apply that repair to cars that meet that condition. Then my confidence in the service really plumetted when he started talking about the Winter Gas mixture in the midwest area as a possible cause for the problem. I find that to be complete BS as I've had the noise happen twice during the month of July when the temps were in the 80's. Each time it was on the next start after the car had been run long enough to rotate cars in the driveway.
I'm curious if those of you who have had the repair work for SIM 110207 all had faults recorded or an engine light indicator when you got your car repaired. I'm trying to determine if what the dealer told me was a MINI requirement or the dealers.
I'm convinced that I have the same problem that everyone is complaining about here and that I will have to have this repair done according to that SIM some day.
Is this a repair that is covered under warranty? I still have about 1 1/2 years to go on mine. I just hope the problem is not causing serious damage to the engine in the long run.
Miles: 9767
Duration: 1-2 minutes
Frequency: (times per month/week) About twice a week. More frequently as temp gets colder.
RPM range: 500<2500
Ambient Temp: mostly notice it when the temp is colder then 40's
Oil: Original MINI Oil
I just took mine in for maintenence and told the Service Manager about the cold start noise. Picked her up today and was told they didn't hear the noise, No faults were stored in system, and that this was typically a sign of early stages of carbon build up.
All they did was add a gas treatment. When I asked about SIM 110207, the service manager said that it didn't apply to my car since there was no fault recorded or service engine light indicator. He said they only apply that repair to cars that meet that condition. Then my confidence in the service really plumetted when he started talking about the Winter Gas mixture in the midwest area as a possible cause for the problem. I find that to be complete BS as I've had the noise happen twice during the month of July when the temps were in the 80's. Each time it was on the next start after the car had been run long enough to rotate cars in the driveway.
I'm curious if those of you who have had the repair work for SIM 110207 all had faults recorded or an engine light indicator when you got your car repaired. I'm trying to determine if what the dealer told me was a MINI requirement or the dealers.
I'm convinced that I have the same problem that everyone is complaining about here and that I will have to have this repair done according to that SIM some day.
Is this a repair that is covered under warranty? I still have about 1 1/2 years to go on mine. I just hope the problem is not causing serious damage to the engine in the long run.
I experienced the worst cold start rattle I've ever had the day after Thanksgiving. It was in the mid-60's outside, I started the car and drove off. For about two minutes it sounded like a bunch of pennies being ground in a blender. Pedestrians actually looked at my car when I drove by! It was terrible! Then it went away. Like I stated before, let it idle for 5 minutes, then drive off = no rattle. Go figure.



