Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Cold Start Issues Database

  #576  
Old 05-06-2014, 05:18 PM
Systemlord
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Originally Posted by Ryan2949 View Post
Hasn't been a post in here in a while but I'm looking at a 2007 Cooper S with 178,000kms (a little over 110,000 miles). 6 speed, leather interior etc for a good price. Now the issue it has is the idle on a cold start. It sounds rough and idles between 300-600rpm for about 2 minutes and then it idles around 1k after that. Is this something that will be an expensive fix and what are the possiblities. I've read carbon build up, fuel pump but what could those cost so I can use this to lower the asking price.
That sound is trying to tell you to stay away, if it's got problems and you haven't purchased it yet whoever is selling it is probably tired of throwing money into it. Get a clue.
 
  #577  
Old 05-06-2014, 05:30 PM
Ryan2949
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Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post
That sound is trying to tell you to stay away, if it's got problems and you haven't purchased it yet whoever is selling it is probably tired of throwing money into it. Get a clue.
Other than that the car is perfect and it's from a dealership. I know that doesn't change much but it's not some kid trying to get rid of it. I can even get a shop to check it out before hand but i was asking for some ideas before I do that.
 
  #578  
Old 05-06-2014, 07:01 PM
Systemlord
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Originally Posted by Ryan2949 View Post
Other than that the car is perfect and it's from a dealership. I know that doesn't change much but it's not some kid trying to get rid of it. I can even get a shop to check it out before hand but i was asking for some ideas before I do that.
How do you know it's perfect? Oh it's from a dealer and that makes it a good buy? If it's not idling correctly how is it perfect? Don't be so naive.

The 2007 MCS are the first of the second gen and it started out as a nightmare for most, I bought mine with only 45k and purchased an 6-Year extended warranty. You know what I have had to replace thus far, timing chain assembly ($1800), thermostat housing ($524), valve cover ($400), Flywheel (835), clutch disk ($200), pressure plate ($200), throwout bearing. Things that will go bad, oil line to turbo, water pump and vacuum pump. This is typical.

I'm trying to help you.
 

Last edited by Systemlord; 05-06-2014 at 07:28 PM.
  #579  
Old 08-21-2014, 01:50 PM
cjapeterborough
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Just one tip when trying to investigate/diagnose the death rattle(s) - unscrew the oil filler cap and see how the noise changes - if a higher pitch and much more disturbing its likely to be camshaft related ie cam followers/springs/lifter etc

See the youtube videos in the post below:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp-delete.html


Specifically:


There are posts on here indicating failures of the vac pump but having had one apart yesterday I doubt these fail at all(solid stainless steel and no bearings internally) and are used as an excuse to disguise real issues elsewhere.

We have a 2007 Cooper S which has had most of the usual problems.
Its done 35K had three clutches,dual mass flywheel,thermostat,turbo oil feed pipe,timing chain,HPFP and top end rebuild at 28K.

Luckily we have been able to tackle a lot of the work with the help of forums such as these but frankly this particular year and model is a nightmare!

If you are up for a challenge and enjoy repairing cars with virtually no help from the manufacturer then by all means go out and buy one !

In the UK off course BMW dont recognise any of the extended warranty items conceded by threats of class actions in the USA.........guess thats what they call good business and customer focused.
 

Last edited by cjapeterborough; 08-21-2014 at 01:57 PM.
  #580  
Old 01-11-2015, 06:32 PM
oldMGguy
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Originally Posted by Ryan2949 View Post
Hasn't been a post in here in a while but I'm looking at a 2007 Cooper S with 178,000kms (a little over 110,000 miles). 6 speed, leather interior etc for a good price. Now the issue it has is the idle on a cold start. It sounds rough and idles between 300-600rpm for about 2 minutes and then it idles around 1k after that. Is this something that will be an expensive fix and what are the possiblities. I've read carbon build up, fuel pump but what could those cost so I can use this to lower the asking price.
Classic symptoms of a failing high-pressure fuel pump. The car is very reluctant to start after a long sit (overnight), then will start right up for subsequent re-starts that day. BMW-USA has an extended warranty repair notice out on this fault - no cost to owner.
 
  #581  
Old 01-12-2015, 07:14 AM
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Grizld700
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Originally Posted by oldMGguy View Post
Classic symptoms of a failing high-pressure fuel pump. The car is very reluctant to start after a long sit (overnight), then will start right up for subsequent re-starts that day. BMW-USA has an extended warranty repair notice out on this fault - no cost to owner.
The problem is, the early R56 models don't always switch a light on when it should. And without a light on, it can be difficult to have the HPFP replaced.
 
  #582  
Old 07-20-2015, 12:24 PM
Bryan.vfr
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2008 Cooper, Auto
Unknown build date
130,000 miles
Happens every time it sits for more than a couple of hours
Ambient temps in the 60s-70s

I just joined up, mostly because I was searching for info on my cold starting issue. It only started a few weeks ago. The first few months I've had it, it started fine, even in winter. I brought to my local European mechanic. It had a bad oil leak, and some valve issues (I won't go into it all here) and heavy carbon build up. They fixed all that, and it definitely seemed to run smoother, quieter. But yet, it still would give me trouble on the cold starts.

I called the mechanic, and he told me because of the closed/open loop of the system, it may take around 150 miles or so for the car to relearn how to start properly. Almost 200 miles later, no improvement.

I brought it back to the shop. It's been there 3 days now, and they're stumped, can't figure out the cause of the problem. I'm getting pretty frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.

Here's a link to my video, showing what it does. Not sure if I can (or how to) upload/embed it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wr5db3yqfc...%20PM.mp4?dl=0
 
  #583  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:22 PM
Bryan.vfr
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Quick update: I heard from the mechanic today. They were testing the fueling and say the check valve broke off. A new fuel rail is on order, should be 2 days. Ugh.
 
  #584  
Old 12-23-2015, 11:33 PM
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my god, the Mini is a POS
 
  #585  
Old 01-28-2016, 08:55 AM
DtotheL
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Just bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S on 35k miles. I was only able to test drive it warm, and it was great. On a cold start the morning after purchasing, it sounded pretty rough and rattly. Noise decreased when warm after a minute or two.

I have a couple of days to decide whether to return it. Any chance some of you guys with more experience could have a look at this vid and let me know your thoughts?

Thanks all
 
  #586  
Old 01-30-2016, 07:52 PM
nrfitchett4
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Originally Posted by DtotheL View Post
Just bought a 2007 Mini Cooper S on 35k miles. I was only able to test drive it warm, and it was great. On a cold start the morning after purchasing, it sounded pretty rough and rattly. Noise decreased when warm after a minute or two.

I have a couple of days to decide whether to return it. Any chance some of you guys with more experience could have a look at this vid and let me know your thoughts?
https://youtu.be/y-GeK3j0e9c

Thanks all
If vibrations, sound is coming from the left side where you put your hand, that is the timing chain/tensioner. There is finally a recall for that. Mine was done with third party warranty and was far enough out of spec that they replaced the whole assembly.
It might be the high pressure fuel pump. If you are at mini dealership, have them test the pressure on cold start up. That has been extended to 10 years, 120k miles.
 
  #587  
Old 10-28-2016, 08:28 PM
Josh Moore
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Model:R56 Mini Cooper S hardtop
Build Date: 2010
Miles:49k
Duration:2min
Frequency: twice today
RPM range:idle
Ambient Temp:34°F
Oil:mobil one full synth 5w30

Any other relevant information: happened twice about 3 min after cold starting it this morning and this evening its only been about 1200 miles since the last oil chang and its maybe a quarter of a quart low if that just wondering if its something to check out immediately
 
  #588  
Old 08-03-2017, 03:38 PM
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Ray167
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Model: Cooper S
Build Date: 2010
KM: 120000
Duration:3-4 minutes after start
Frequency: Daily for two days
RPM: 0 - 1800
Ambient Temp: 25 C
Oil: 0W-30

I had the issue for two days and then I check on this post for a solution. Someone mentioned to check the oil which could be the problem so I did, lo and behold the oil was below the markers. I still had 9000 KM to go for the next oil change so I didnt think it would be this low. I bough a liter of oil and filled up the engine to the proper marker and the noise was gone.
 
  #589  
Old 10-30-2018, 12:12 PM
Gillham
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Just thought I'd Chime in...
Model: Clubman S (R55LCI)
Build Date: 2011
Miles: 95K

HPFP Replaced 5/22/15 under warranty
HPFP Replaced 5/26/17 under warranty
HPFP Needs replacing 10/30/18; should be replaced under 2-year parts warranty.
 
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