Guess I am going to have to try the coil swap. Plugs are NGK and only 18000 miles on them.

Only did it under heavy acceleration. Plugs and coils on order.

 

Whats the compression?

 

I am not even going there yet, too many other things to check before getting into that deep of a diagnostic.

With 60,000 miles, first I will try swapping coils to see if the cylinder misfire moves (I am assuming it will). My guess is it still has the original coils. The spark plugs have 20,000 on them so not too far out from changing them. Also, with new coils, you should change the plugs.

 

While Plugs and coils are out, a wise mechanic does a compression test!!

 

Perhaps, if you have the necessary tester.

Also, if it were a compression issue, it would continuously throw the misfire code. It only does it when I get on it hard like when passing someone on a two lane road.

 

What year is the car? Bad gas? Plugged injectors?

 

2012 coupe. Only run 92 octane, about once a month injector cleaner (Lucas). With work/holidays/sub-zero temps I haven't had the time to do the coil swap. Going to try to get some things done Monday.

It is only intermittent, doing it when I get on it hard and taching somewhere between 4000-5500. If I let off it, no codes or limp mode. If I stay in it, it throws a code and goes into limp mode. Plugs have 20,000 on them my guess is coils are original. I bought it used last January with 38,800 miles.

I know coils can be an issue so I purchased new coils from ECS https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian...t-of-4/5005kt/
and new NGK plugs. I have always been a big fan of NGK since my dirt bike days back in the 80's. I figure if this isn't the issue, I have them for when it is.

Last time I made it do it, I was monitoring with Torque Pro App. Nothing out of the ordinary with boost, A/F ratio. Read the codes with Bimmerlink and had 2 codes
2F00: combustion misfire, cylinder 2: detected
2EE7: combustion misfire, cylinder 2: injection shutdown

Leads me to believe a coil/plug issue.

 

Swapped coils from 2 to 1 and error code chased the coil to cylinder #1.

Coils are here, plugs get here tomorrow. Will not have the chance to change them till next weekend. Just going to have to baby it for the week. It only does it under heavy acceleration.

BTW, I do think they are original coils. Bosch brand.

 

There you go! If the code moves with the coil, replace coils. Unless you have no where to go until the spark plugs come in, I would swap the new coils in. Should only take 10 minutes, including a coffee break.

 

I work twenty minutes from home. Going to do it tomorrow PM in the comfort of a heated shop (were I work) and most likely wash all the winter grime off while I am at it.

 

My plugs haven't arrived yet so plugs or no plugs, I am replacing the coils this weekend.

I do have a question about the coils


Some appear to have a metal sleeve around them, some do not. When I switched 1 & 2 they didn't have this. Could they have remained in the spark plug hole?

 

Just different designs. I don't believe one is better than the other, just different.

I am currently running the Bavarian Autosport coils. I wouldn't have any reservation running the Dinan coils as an alternate..

 

Actually, I got the Bavarian as well from ECS.

My originals were Bosch, and I think they had the shell on them. I need to take a good look when I replace them this weekend.

 

Had time to do a few things yesterday, finally. I needed to do an oil change and the coils (unfortunately the new plugs still haven't arrived dad gum USPS, ordered direct from NGK). I pulled all four and checked them, all looked good. None hot or carboned up. Put one of the old good coils in my "bag of goodies" in the boot for roadside emergencies. I do a monthly trip form Ohio to Wisconsin and back, I do not want to be stuck.

I have a K&N drop in air filter that I swapped back to a clean stock filter for the winter months. I prefer the stock in extreme cold months.

My diverter valve was the old style and I had purchased the "new" style covered in this post https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-upgrade.html Put the old one in the "bag of goodies" also.

I had also had a new PCV valve waiting to be changed. Hoping that reduces some of my oil consumption. It isn't really bad but a quart every 3000 or so miles with no oil leaks, I figured it was worth a try.

Ran out of time to replace the Vanos, OSU -vs- GA GREAT GAME, just unfortunate for my Buckeyes. I have two new VANOS valves since I had some error codes early last fall. It was intermittent. I took the old out and cleaned them since I didn't have replacements at the time and haven't had the error since. I will do them when I do my front end work.

I still have an after market intercooler to install, a new lower grill and chrome trim around the upper grill. That will most likely be when I do the next oil change in 3 or 4 months unless my schedule suddenly frees up.

 

Checked my oil today with a little over 500 miles since I changed the PCV valve. It hasn't moved from the top. I think the PCV valve replacement did what I was hoping it would.

One thing I have noticed is I have a JB+ on my Coupe and with the old style diverter valve, I would normally see between 17-18 PSI boost. With the new diverter valve, highest I have seen is 16.5 Not sure if I just need to stay in it a bit longer or what caused this Torqued the 3 bolts and no sign of leaks.