I'm planning a timing chain replacement on my 2012 N16 in late summer.

Question...

Rather than using a socket & breaker bar in conjunction with the special crankshaft hub holder tool, has anyone successfully used a high torque impact wrench (e.g., Milwaukee 2767) to remove the crankshaft bolt after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?

In this video, Zevi removed the crankshaft bolt from a N16 using a socket & breaker bar but no special holder tool, suggesting that use of a high torque impact wrench might be okay. Thoughts?

 

My understanding is this: whatever you do, you want to make sure the crank doesn’t spin anti-clockwise. If it does, you could get valve and position contact. That being said, I think you do want the crank tool for when you tighten the bolt. I don’t think the flywheel pin is suitable for holding the crank when tightening properly.

 

Any ideas for an inexpensive hack to avoid purchasing another expensive BMW special tool?

In Zevi's video (see first post), he both loosens and torques to spec the 2013 Mini N16 crankshaft bolt using only the camshaft alignment tool to prevent crankshaft rotation (see 12:32 & 29:56 minutes).

In a second example, TheMiniSpecialist uses the same method on a 2011 Mini Countryman with the N16 engine (see 21:25 & 27:40 minutes). Zevi removed the crankshaft bolt with a socket & breaker bar, while TheMiniSpecialist removed the bolt with an impact gun.

 

You can do it any way you want-

me, I'd be really hesitant to torque anything on the crank with only the CAMS held.

There's a VW flywheel locking tool I've had for decades that straddles 2 flywheel teeth-
it's how I lock the crank if I'm reefing on it.

t

 

Toby,

The is designed to lock both the flywheel (crankshaft) and the two camshafts.

However, in the Bentley Mini Cooper service manual, removal of the crankshaft bolt is done (1) while the crankshaft and camshafts are locked with the camshaft alignment timing tool and also 2) while the crankshaft hub is held firmly with the Crankshaft Holder Tool.

 

you could put two bolts into the crank hub and insert a pry bar to keep it from moving. with a socket already on the bolt you might only need to put one bolt into the hub for the pry bar.

 

This is definitely worth trying. Thanks.

 

[btw, i recommend getting longer bolts to pry against for the hub also so you don't damage the regular ones

 

so, what I see there is a cam lock set and a flywheel pin.

That pin's pretty... not- torque- rated. If it's like the BMW parallel, it's for alignment only.

It might hold up against a rattle gun, as the inertia of the crank and flywheel are working in your favor,
but I wouldn't put a 4' breaker bar against it. If the pin doesn't bend, the hole will elongate.

Erf. Saving a few cents on a woodruff key is so capitalist.

t
might have to adjust to the times, but will not do so gracefully.

 

I found the information below on the BMW Repair guide website. Thoughts?

 

The camshaft alignment tool kit comes with two different sized crankshaft locking tools, small and large (see below).
Each tool consists of a larger and smaller diameter pin.
The larger tool pins have diameters of 14 mm and 7.9 mm. The smaller tool pins have diameters of 12 mm and 7.9 mm.
I've come across videos saying that one tool fits the manual transmission and the other fits the automatic transmission. My R56 has an automatic transmission.
Each tool appears to be constructed from a dense, hard steel.

Also, won't the axial force Fx applied to the crank bolt with a breaker bar be much greater than the resulting tangential force Ft created at the crank tool pin inserted into the flywheel (mechanical advantage)? Engineers, please chime in.

 

I just did this recently.
Mine is N18 with auto tranny.
I used the larger pin to lock the flywheel.
After pin is installed and cams are locked, used impact (corded) to unscrew the crankshaft bolt.
For installation, installed the pin, and lock the cams, and was able to torque the crankshaft bolt to the spec.

 

Very helpful!

 

Cost of the crankshaft hub holding tool ... $90.00. Cost of the potential damage from not following the correct procedure .... priceless!

Remember, MINIs are made by a tool manufacturer, not a car company.