Suspension 1/4 vs 1/2 vs 3/4 vs 3/8" Rachet Drives
#1
1/4 vs 1/2 vs 3/4 vs 3/8" Rachet Drives
Not sure if my question is posted to the right forum but I'll give it a try anyway. I am doing some tool shopping because the movers sent all my tools to storage instead of shipping over to the UK with me.
I am curious if there is a preferred size and why as to whether or not to buy 1/4" vs 1/2" vs 3/4" or 3/8" rachet drive wrench? I also need to purchase a torque wrench so if there is anything I should know before I buy about this type of tool let me know and thanks
I am curious if there is a preferred size and why as to whether or not to buy 1/4" vs 1/2" vs 3/4" or 3/8" rachet drive wrench? I also need to purchase a torque wrench so if there is anything I should know before I buy about this type of tool let me know and thanks
#2
3/8" is the most useful all around size. It has enough leverage and the size is small enough to get most places. 1/2" is the next most useful for me. I use that size for larger fasteners and the ones that are really stuck. 1/4" is great for getting into really tight spaces, but not a lot of leverage if the fastener is really tight or stuck. 3/4" I use mostly on the big bolts on my 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel pickup. Or also on the lug nuts with a four foot breaker bar when some ***hole at the tire shop torques them to the breaking point. But I mostly use the 3/8" set.
Steve
Steve
#3
It's a matter of using the right tool for the right job. The size of the drive depends on the amount of torque and leverage you need. The 1/4 sockets are thin walled, the 3/8 are a little thicker, and the 1/2 are thickest. Likewise, the length of the respective ratchets are progressively longer to allow more leverage. If you are going to crank a big bolt down, you need a 1/2 drive socket with a relatively long handle on the ratchet. Use that setup on a 6mm bolt and you will break the head off in no time. I have all three sets but I would suggest a 3/8 drive since it is the most diverse and will get you by 90% of the time.
As far as the torque wrench, I prefer the cheapy torsion bar type over the click or extremely expensive digital type.
As far as the torque wrench, I prefer the cheapy torsion bar type over the click or extremely expensive digital type.
#4
#5
#6
Thanks I think I have enough info to do some shopping now. Just for chuckles I took a look at the Snap On site, wow talk about expensive, two sockets, a drive and an extension comes to $161.00 not inclsuing shipping. I am sure these puppies are fabulous and beautiful to use but I don't think spending that kind of money makes much sense for a weekend mechanic do you?
#7
Originally Posted by MGear
Thanks I think I have enough info to do some shopping now. Just for chuckles I took a look at the Snap On site, wow talk about expensive, two sockets, a drive and an extension comes to $161.00 not inclsuing shipping. I am sure these puppies are fabulous and beautiful to use but I don't think spending that kind of money makes much sense for a weekend mechanic do you?
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#8
#9
#10
6th Gear
iTrader: (1)
torque///
on d'tortion type, any particular brand? .... (superior on tuner wheels)..
Originally Posted by Rick-Anderson
It's a matter of using the right tool for the right job. The size of the drive depends on the amount of torque and leverage you need. The 1/4 sockets are thin walled, the 3/8 are a little thicker, and the 1/2 are thickest. Likewise, the length of the respective ratchets are progressively longer to allow more leverage. If you are going to crank a big bolt down, you need a 1/2 drive socket with a relatively long handle on the ratchet. Use that setup on a 6mm bolt and you will break the head off in no time. I have all three sets but I would suggest a 3/8 drive since it is the most diverse and will get you by 90% of the time.
As far as the torque wrench, I prefer the cheapy torsion bar type over the click or extremely expensive digital type.
As far as the torque wrench, I prefer the cheapy torsion bar type over the click or extremely expensive digital type.
#11
Currently I only use 1/4" and 1/2" drives. The intermediates, I have
socket adapters and several ratchet sizes so i've never encountered
a problem working on bolt-ons.
I want to get a whole set of 3/8" next though, just for convenience
sake. (and collection? )
I too only use Craftsman. I don't work on cars enough to really need
anything else.
socket adapters and several ratchet sizes so i've never encountered
a problem working on bolt-ons.
I want to get a whole set of 3/8" next though, just for convenience
sake. (and collection? )
I too only use Craftsman. I don't work on cars enough to really need
anything else.
#12
Yeah I think I will start off with 3/8 since that seems to be the most universal shall I say. There is an automotive supply house over here called Halfords which has all the necessary tools and their prices are actually in line with Sears although I won't be able to tell about the quality until I purchase and use some of their items so I will do so this week. I need to install my new Alta 22mm rear sway bar that requires 13 and 16mm sockets plus a torque wrench.
I really do need to say I much I appreciate all the help I have received from NAM members, I just would not have been able to get my car to where it is today without the help and quick responses from the posts I have made and I certainly have had my share of needing help so thanks again
I really do need to say I much I appreciate all the help I have received from NAM members, I just would not have been able to get my car to where it is today without the help and quick responses from the posts I have made and I certainly have had my share of needing help so thanks again
#13
#14
Gb
To get opinions on relative quality of Halfords stuff, you may want to post some queries on www.mini2.com, where many Brits exchange info. Like all forums, they're never at a loss for an opinion or 2.
hs
hs
#15
Having been an aircraft mechanic in the USAF I can ditto the 3/8 drive suggestions. The torque wrench is a different story. The click type wrenches have to be recalibrated frequently or they can become verrrry inaccurate. Dropped once and it can be off by as much as 50%. The torque bar is somewhat less accurate, but fool proof if used properly. Drop it 100 times and no problem. Snap on is way overkill. The craftsman advice is good. Hope this helps, Joe D.
#17
Originally Posted by kenchan
I want to get a whole set of 3/8" next though, just for convenience
sake. (and collection? )
sake. (and collection? )
As k-huevo pointed out, what quality tools you will find in the UK will mostly be French and German brands. BTW Facom no longer owns S-K in Illinois.
For unbeatable price, Stanley tools at Wally world are surprisingly good quality (Stanley made Craftsman tools until 1994, they still make MAC and Proto) but the lifetime warranty there requires a 1-800 call and waiting for the mail. Ever since Snap-On's Flank-Drive patent ran out, all Stanley tools have had a similar feature. A better warranty is available on Stanley/Husky tools at Home Depot but at a higher price.
Craftsman has the best warranty bar none, covering even abuse and modification (eg I had to cut my own stubby wrench/shorten a socket and now I'm "not satisfied" and entitled to an exchange for new even without a receipt). Only the 6-point tools appear to have a flank drive type cut. Danaher makes Craftsman tools, MATCO, Gearwrenches and Kobalt (Lowe's). Kobalt used to be made by Williams (a Snap-On company), but no longer. Only beam-type Craftsman torque wrenches carry the lifetime warranty; the click-type is only a year or two. And the gearwrenches at Halford's appear to be Danaher Taiwan.
Snap-On tools break about as often as Craftsman but this is still impressive since they generally (but not always) have thinner walls for better access in tight spaces. They are ~4x the price of Craftsman so unless you use them professionally and the dealer comes to your workplace all the time (kind of hard to chase one down otherwise) it's not worth it for home use. Sometimes the dealer will hassle you about "abusing" a broken tool and offer 1/2 off a new tool--really depends on the dealer. The finish on them is absolutely beautiful compared to the rough-hewn and "as-cast" finish on say, Craftsman wrenches.
#18
Thanks BFG9000 I think you're right about the Snap-On since it's only for home use finding something of equal value over here in the UK will probably be the best route. There is a store called B&Q that appears to owned or at least operated by Home Depot, I will go there tomorrow to see if they carry the Stanley/Husky brand, thanks
#19
#20
The lug socket is 17mm, so in addition to the 13mm and 16mm, it would be most practical to just get a 1/2" drive set that includes all of those, plus a matching 25" breaker (as jlm suggested), torque wrench, and ratchet. I didn't install my rear bar but it looks like a 13mm combination wrench might be useful too.
Costco here carries cheapie Cooper/Crescent tools; I don't know what they carry in the UK. Allied, Thorsen, Pittsburgh, and Cooper are a bit too cheaply made for my taste, but may well be serviceable. Costco has a special type of lifetime warranty--you have to return the whole set and not lose any pieces, then you can upgrade to whatever set they carry then.
Costco here carries cheapie Cooper/Crescent tools; I don't know what they carry in the UK. Allied, Thorsen, Pittsburgh, and Cooper are a bit too cheaply made for my taste, but may well be serviceable. Costco has a special type of lifetime warranty--you have to return the whole set and not lose any pieces, then you can upgrade to whatever set they carry then.
#21
Originally Posted by BFG9000
The 3/8" drive deep sockets are a "mid" depth compared to the 1/2" sockets so it isn't needless duplication--very useful to have. I find myself using the 3/8" most unless I need to apply extra torque.
improvement account and not my piggybank account.
off to sears I go~.
#22
Originally Posted by Joe Donovan
... The click type wrenches have to be recalibrated frequently or they can become verrrry inaccurate. Dropped once and it can be off by as much as 50%. The torque bar is somewhat less accurate, but fool proof if used properly. Drop it 100 times and no problem. ... Joe D.
Where or how often do you get a click type recalibrated???
John
#23
I dont, it's very expensive and not worth it unless your job requires it. When I was an aircraft mech. They had to be recilabrated every 6 mos. or when dropped, and when new after shipment. If you have one and want to have it calibrated, go to a local HIGH END shop and ask where they have there's done. I've inquired at two different tire shops (as they are required by there insurance co. and others to torque wheels to spec.),and both said they never had them calibrated. The Irony is that most people send them off to be done and they are not handeled properly in transit which can mess up the job.
Originally Posted by DaCrema
Joe,
Where or how often do you get a click type recalibrated???
John
Where or how often do you get a click type recalibrated???
John
#24
#25
If you are concerned the extra extension of an adapter may affect torque values, then a 1/8" thick low-profile adapter can be used instead: http://www.starrproducts.com/socket.html
And Sears carries a torque wrench calibration tester.... for $1100. Nobody here can do it locally either so the calibration would only get messed up again in shipping.
And Sears carries a torque wrench calibration tester.... for $1100. Nobody here can do it locally either so the calibration would only get messed up again in shipping.
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