A quick and easy way to give you an idea if you have dash command or torque. Plug it in and drive it and check some of your parameters. Boost for the most part, should be increased over stock if it’s been tuned. Without reading the ECU, that’s one the easier ways that comes to mind. Factory boost levels on them should be right around 11 psi. Mine for example, with a tune hits 22psi.
im sure somebody has another smarter way to tell, but that’s the cheap and easy way to make an educated guess.

Also, have you looked under the hood to see if it has a tuner box (like JB+ or NM Power Module) hooked up to it? They trick the ECU into making more boost for more power. I haven’t had one, but have seen a few, I think they plug into the MAF & MAP sensors. It may have something like that on it too. They seem to be pretty popular because they are cheaper than a remap and do make some power. And can be removed if they have warranty concerns.

That should work just fine for that

Some company's
will label it on the ECM
usually with like a label maker
the company's
that do label them
will put the octane its tuned at
what stage
an name of the buyer

I take it that this is your first MINI?
Well, welcome to the wonderful and fun world of MINI Coopers! And nice picture

A few quick points about these cars. The Second Generation (Gen II) of the MINI Cooper had two engines - the N14 and N18. Yours has the N18; a much better engine than the N14. The N14 can be flashed through the OBDII port; the N18 can not.

I currently have a 2012 S (N18, like yours) and previously had a 2007 (N14). While the factory rated the engines almost the same (179 vs 182 hp, I believe), my 2012 pulls like crazy. It feels like it has a lot more power than the difference in numbers would imply. BTY - That is call the “Butt Dino” measurement of HP. My understanding is that the N18 has a different variable cam timing on it that make the power come on better in the N18.

Both engines have the same boost - 10 psi. Now, that is 10 psi gage and would be 24ish psi absolute at sea level. You would probably see about 22 psi in CO there. If you have a ScanGage, it will read out in absolute pressure. An oddity with the N18 engine (maybe the ECU) is that, even though the boost is read in absolute pressure, the OBD port reading starts with the barometric pressure; no vacuum readings. But also, this gives you your reference point to add the boost pressure to.

Remember, also, these engines have an “over-boost mode” for 10 sec. This adds another 2.5 psi to the overall boost, for a total of 12.5 psi. FYI - This results in the engine output of about 195 HP.

Actually, I am glad you posted this, because I wondered the same thing about the power my car was making. Back in the day, when you bought a new car, there was the thought that you wanted to get a car built on Tuesday or Wednesday. A Monday or Friday car could be really bad (Monday was worker hangover day and Friday the workers are just watching the clock for the weekend). Now with robots doing so much of the work, that isn’t likely any more. But that didn’t stop me from wondering if my MINI was a Wednesday car.

Hope this helps.
And Enjoy The Boost

I’m thinking that your max values there may have been a momentary overboosting, as it will go 15 psi or so for a brief period of time. Since it is an R56 with the Bosch(I think) ECU, Another thing to check for even if there is no stickers on it, would be to inspect the casing of the ECU to see it it looks to have been cracked open or drilled. I believe in order tune these cars, including my ‘12 R60, you have to jump a couple of pins in there, so the case has to be opened up to tune it, as this model cannot be flashed through the OBD2 port.
If there isn’t a tune and you want one, Mariokart is the dude to talk to! Love my RPM tune!

Nice stable of cars there.

To calculate boost you shouldn’t be adjusting for sea level. Your boost is just the difference between atmospheric pressure and your total pressure. In other words, your boost numbers of 14 - 15 psi, are what the boost actually is. That is a bit high, but as MrGrumpy said, it may be an overshoot.

From the numbers you got and the fact that the ECU looks pretty much untampered with, I would say that your car has the factory map on it still. There’s nothing wrong with that, as you said, it pulls like a Wednesday car! Good deal! Now if you want more...that’s doable. You will get a lot of opinions on tuning from different folks here. But I love my RPM tune and highly recommend contacting Mariokart for your tuning needs.