The real one...meaning...manifold off. Thanks to anyone on here who posted helpful info as it's what ultimately helped me get going. A couple pointers for anyone who might be considering this soon or needs to do it on another car...friends car...etc.

1. It's easy. Don't be intimidated.

Ok, now that that's out of the way.

2. If you're not into guns, go to any sporting goods place and buy a cheap rifle cleaning kit (approx 14.00). What you need in the kit is the rod, a small diameter bore brush (approx .223 or such), the cleaning swatches and tool to hold them (included), and you'll need to pick up a bore mop that will thread on the end of the rod...approx .45 size or such. They are about 2.99. This will cost you about 20.00 and save you a TON of fuss with other brushes that suck. The rod is skinny, the brushes work great, and clean easy.

3. You can bend the very tip of the bore brush in a 45 degree end, that way the brush can get around the back side of the valve (critical as there's a lot of crap directly behind the valve stem) and once 90% of the gunk is out, you can open the valves and smooth off the edges of the valve to remove any stubborn gunk that is right on the edge. Also keep in mind that once you open the valves, there will be caked carbon on the valve stem that is now present at the top of the runner..you couldn't see it when the valve was closed.

4. I used Acetone first and let it soak in each runner approx 30 minutes the first time. First, use a toothbrush on the outer runner, then scrub like hell with the rifle brush, then evacuate it with a hand powered vaccuum pump (available at AutoZone or any parts store). It has a small container to dispense the nasty stuff. I then followed up with carb clean. You can use a micro-fiber towel to get any solution out the vacuum pump won't remove by taking a corner of the towel and ramming it down there with the gun-rod.

5. Once the valve base is nothing more than black goo rather than crud, attach the bore mop and "mop up" all the black goo with the bore mop. Rinse it each time you remove in fresh carb clean and towel dry it (don't leave it wet).

6. The attach the swatch holder, and run a few dry swatches down there. Then take compressed air in. Then...open the valve, re-attach the bore brush and smooth and clean the edges of the valve which will have some build up you couldn't get to with the valve closed. Attach another swatch and clean with the valve open. Finish off by blasting it again with compressed air.

Overall, each runner took me about 45 minutes.

My valves were nasty... NAST-Y. 70K miles, and the worst I've ever seen. I don't even know how ANY air was getting through #3 it was so bad. Now they are shiny and pretty. Hope this helps some people.

 

I will eventually get around to doing this once I finish rebuilding my BMW engine. I know I need to do this as I have 75k on my 07.

 

Yours will indeed be as nasty as mine. Same year...same mileage.

 

Good write up.

Local enthusiast too!

 

Pics, or it didn't happen (to help me figure out how to do this on my own.)

 

In #2 when you say runners I'm guessing you're referring to pouring solvent into the head with a valve closed and not a runner of the intake manifold. Is there also gunk built up in the walls of the plastic intake manifold? Any recommendations on what's save to use on that? I guess maybe there wouldn't be anything to clean on the manifold because the PVC vents to the head. I've talked to guys with tdi diesel volkswagons and the buildup in themanifold can be severe. Otherwise thanks so much for this.

 

Yes...in the head. They are considered "runners" because the mini head has such a long passage down to the intake valves (approx 4-5 inches). No, nothing to do in the intake...just maybe clean the throttle body as many have suggested. Do NOT use carb clean on the plastic intake, and even though people have, I would shy away from using carb clean on the throttle body. I've seen what carb clean does to plastic...maybe this plastic is resistant to it? I don't know. I generally use either Throttle body cleaner or brake clean on anything automotive that's intake and plastic. So yes, just clean the intake runner in the head, and the valves...if you want to do the throttle body, clean that...some do...some don't. The area around the valve stem/seat is where 99.9% of your problem is. I would guess mine had enough carbon in each pair of valves to fill a 35mm film container. I'm not even kidding either. Every time I sucked the acetone out of the runner (approx 4-5oz every time) the bottom of the container was loaded with thick, black goo. I plugged up my vaccuum pump after about every 2 evacs...had to clean the hoses!

 

We need pics!

 

why did you decide to do this? I have 07 with 70K miles.

 

dealer says you must do walnut shell and you cannot do it on your own. But it looks like you were able to do it on your own... wants $550

 

The gun cleaning brushes will work perfect, just cleaned a few of my guns, plan to go shooting tomorrow, this is something I will at least look into soon, since my miles are half what yours are, but it will let me know how things are progressing along.... Nice info.

 

Place round the corner from me (in teh UK) sells the following rifle cleaning kit so going to try this out:

http://www.solware.co.uk/air-pistol-...ning-Kit.shtml

Was hoping to get done this weekend but our unseasonally hot March weather had turned to Rain and Snow now its April.

 

Message to the OP.

Does the car run noticeably better since the cleaning? or is it driving pretty much the same?

 

OP where are you? We need your follow up information on this!

 

I did this cleaning procedure this past weekend. Took my full 2 days as my valves were really really gummed-up!
Really made a difference in acceleration! Funny thing though...when I went on my ~7 mile test run (post cleaning) I did not get any engine light. But, yesterday (after the car sat for 2 days) I started it. The idle was a little high ~1000rpm for a while, then settled to ~800rpm. Then I had a yellow engine light. I took a short drive, but, it remained on. I disconnected the battery overnight to clear it. EDIT: Reconnected before work this morning and no difference! Bummer...... Will see if it remains gone this afternoon after work.

 

I washed my cylinders down so I had to oil them back up to get compression. My MIN had 100,000 plus mile on it. I drive it hard so there was still some buld up. Changed to oil, added XMAX to oil ad fuel to get the rest of it out. Runs very smooth and getting better gas milegage.

 

as an amateur i would love some pics!

 

There are loads of images on the web if you google "mini cooper intake valves". Here is an example.




And here is how the Pros clean the ports with a vacuum adapter and a blast wand shooting walnut shells.



Ohh and here is a complete kit for doing the job at home, provided you have a compressor and a vacuum / shop vac.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-COOPER-...802234&vxp=mtr

 

This looks like a pretty sweet setup. Critical to any blasting job is adequate air supply. I'd like to hear from anyone who has used this kit. How did it work for you? Thanks in advance!

 

Just so some don't get confused. That pic is a BMW 3.0l motor. Straight 6. Our (MINI) intake ports face the firewall in our cars. But still very dooable. The OPs chemical / elbow grease strategy seemed too work. But walnut shell is much easier if you have the compressor and tools