Is this a trick question? Move the oil can. Unbolt the OCC's mounting bracket, grab big pair of pliers, stick it in a vise, bend it until you've got some clearance, reinstall.

(Or am I missing something? )

 

No trick question. :P

 

Agreed. Reposition the catch can and reroute new hose if you need to. My occ was hitting the typhoon intake tube but simply turned the can and bought longer hose.

 

Installed the AEM strut bar and relocated the OCC. Strut bar looks really good installed.

 

Could you post a picture of the bar installed? I'm planning on getting one, but am unsure if the OCC will interfere.

 

It will interfere. The bar hits the top of the OCC. I'll have to take a pic or two for you.

 

That would be much appreciated.

 

what he said

 

Here you guys go.

 

You need to use some lock washers or loctite on those threads, when I had mine it lost two screws, use a fiber washer if worried about the finish. Nice OCC mounting job! Whoever purchased my AEM system got very expensive chrome screws and chrome washers that cost me $30!

 

I haven't had the chance to see what I have at work for screws. Thanks!

 

Read thru this whole thread and think I'm about to pull the trigger on this bad boy... Just to confirm AEM never did get this CARB certified correct?

 

They applied but never heard a peep from CARB, I don't see why it's such a big deal, it doesn't change much in the way of emissions. For some reason I ran way lean on the AEM intake, there were times I think fuel just completely stopped flowing at a very short interval like it was coughing!

 

So, does that mean you no longer have the AEM CAI?

Can you give me a little more detail on the statement regarding the fuel flow? How is that affected by the CAI?

 

I've kind of suspected that at some points in the rpm range I'm running lean, it's a personal problem I plan on shining some light on via testing both pumps and or monitoring air fuel ratios on a dyno. I didn't like my torque dropping off at 3300 rpms, the stock intake torque doesn't drop till 4500 rpms. Another strange thing, it seems I have more power with AC on max! I don't understand why? Turn AC off I lose pulling power.

 

can anyone else comment on loss of power/torque at 3300 rpm vs 4500 rpm? Is this a common issue with this CAI or is it isolated to Systemlord's set up?

 

Also just to confirm since I have a 2011 JCW with the N14 engine, I need the 21-699C correct? not the 21-721C

 

I haven't noticed it. Here's a power-to-speed graph generated by Dynolicious:


(View larger here.)

As you can see, though it doesn't graph to RPM, there are no weird dips compared to stock. It's a little quicker to redline.

Here's the disclaimer: This is not a real dynometer, rather, it uses accelerometer data and known vehicle weight to calculate the numbers. (F=MA, if you know mass and acceleration, you can calculate force; measure these over time and you get power.) Further, these were done on subsequent days, before and after installing the CAI. Weather conditions were the same so air density shouldn't be a factor, but it's still not a rigorous test.

In any case: no dips for me. I have no other changes to the intake or exhaust systems, just the AEM intake and filter.

Correct. That said, you have a factory JCW and your results will necessarily differ from those of us with the standard (smaller) turbo charger and standard ECU.

 

The intake isn't CARB legal in CA eh?

 

It's not isolated to any one car, whenever you change the flow to the engine you end up changing your powerband, just ask ra2fanatic with his AEM CAI and stage 4 Battle/DNA tune. He will tell you that his torque drops off at 3300 rpms. If you look at AEM's dyno sheet it will show the torque dropping off at 3300 rpms, There is a big dip right at 3300 rpms and it starts gaining at 4700 rpms. The stock intake doesn't have a drop off until 4500 rpms and it's pulling strong all the way there!

No, afraid not.

 

I'm only posting this because I think I'm the only guy on this site that has actually had the car in a wind tunnel. So having said that, I have a 2013 JCW and I will only say this...the hood scoop on these cars does nothing ! Meaning there's not air going into the scoop at any given speed. The air flow goes right over the scoop and onto the bottom of the windshield which then propels the air over the car. Most companies during their dyno tunes even for their hood scoop ram air ******** leave the hood up for the dyno runs. It's all a gimmick ! Believe me or not. But if the hood scoop was functional trust me the factory would have used it...and the shape of the scoop would be different.

Have fun with all those hood scoop CAI.

 

you might want to see when the hood is closed and the aem is breathing how the scoop is pulling fresh air in like crazy
Granted i changed the stock grille on the scoop to the open metal unit, but it does sound wicked when it runs and you can hear it when its on the road and pulling like mad at FT

 

Nm engineering it is then. Thanks

 

That's not going to be any different, you'll lose more torque going with an open type filter intake. Restriction (stock CAI) is what gives you that snappy low-end torque, by going with an open type filter intake you going for hp at the expense of losing torque, you'll see. I just wanted you to have all the info before making your purchase. The AEM will lose less torque because it has more restriction than the NM intake, the AEM has the stock CAI piping and the hood scoop which adds some restriction.

 

Had no clue! Thank man! I guess it's worth the hassle to swap back stock CAI for smog purposes. I would be devastated if I lost that "pep".