Has anyone made this MOD on a clubman? I found all of the post on how to wire to the gas cap solenoid on the R56 but didn't see what I expected when I removed the taillight on my R55. I tried to go through the gas cap but didn't make it past the black cover underneath the trim ring.

Thanks in advance.

 

I believe to do this you will need to take the inner driver side panel off to get to the wiring you need. But as the R56 and R55 are different from the B-Pillar back taking out the tail light will be much different and you will obviously not see the same thing as you would on a R56.

 

I have not done it yet but may try it soon. I even have the wires soldered to a surplus buzzer I had laying around, but haven't had a chance to work on it any further.
Look through the black plastic grill like piece that holds the 'boot' light fixture. You can see the wires and connector for the gas cap door solenoid. If I can get the grill off then I may be able to wire it without removing the panel.

 

I attempted the lock buzzer today.

First off I got it working but the buzzer I have is not loud enough. I can barely hear it over the clunk of the door locks.
The buzzer I tried was a Mallory MSR320R.
Maybe my 50+ year old ears can't hear the frequency well?

If you want to try this (at your own risk) then this is what I did.

1. Pry the boot light fixture out and disconnect it. It gets hot....
2. Put your hand where the light was and pull out the black plastic grill piece. Note that it is pretty much just glued to the panel/carpet. When done you will have to glue it back or add screws or fasteners of some sort.
3. Connect the (+) of the buzzer to the White wire with Brown stripe.
4. Connect the (-) to the Brown wire with Yellow stripe.

(In my case I was just experimenting so I just pulled the connector and poked the buzzer wires into the end of the solenoid connector).

If you get the polarity wrong then the buzzer will beep on unlock instead of lock.
The buzzer probably needs a diode added to prevent reverse driving the buzzer on unlock.

Note that door will not lock and the buzzer will not beep if a side door is open BUT if the side doors are closed it WILL beep if the 'barn' door(s) are left open.
So the sound does not help you if you were wanting to have an audible indication that all the doors are closed when you attempt to lock.

(The lights do not flash if you press lock with a barn door open).

I will probably give up on the buzzer idea and just watch the lights.

 

Good try, what about the buzzer in a smoke detector? Those things are loud and annoying.

 

The buzzer I had seemed quite a bit louder when I hooked it up directly to a 12VDC power supply.
I did not actually test the voltage from the solenoid circuit.
It may need to be connected through a relay to work better.

But like I said it's not so useful to me because the buzzer will sound when the doors are locked with the barn doors open.

I once came back from shopping and found my barn doors open. I must have hit the rear door open button when exiting the car.... I hit the lock button... heard the locks clunk and thought all was well.......

 

I have a piezo buzzer hooked into my gas cap on my r56 behind the tail light. Its loud when the tail light is out, but when the tail light is reinserted it muffles most of it, leaving a very quiet beep.

A thought on the relay... What if.... you use the relay, say a single throw 12v automotive relay, and connect one set of poles to the blinker signal (not knowing actual voltages, powering a light bulb vs a gas cap solenoid I would guess the light bulb may draw more voltage). and then the other poles to the buzzer/solenoid. As, when the solenoid is activated, the blinkers will too (signaling a lock), thus causing the buzzer to activate, powered by the voltage from the signal bulbs vs the solenoid?

Its a stretch, but might make some sense... In other words, replace where you'd normally hook up the battery, you replace with the signal + and -

 

So does the buzzer sound if the hatch is open like it does with the Clubman 'barn' doors open?

It may or may not be possible to do what you are thinking with a relay or multiple relays.

You may be able to get one if the rear bulbs or maybe both L & R rear bulbs to flash if the wiring goes through, but you would not get any front bulbs to flash without running more wires.

The wiring to the turn signal bulbs, brake lights etc are all wired to and controlled by the 'footwell' computer module. Even the ground returns are fed from it. When you measure voltages at the lights you don't get 12V like you would expect, maybe 6 or 8V if I remember right. There is no continuity from the bulb grounds to the frame ground etc. Everything is controlled by electronic circuits and/or electronic relays. It's not the same as working on older cars trailers etc.