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Hi guys. Been a while. I took one of my r 50's out of storage recently and need to fix a problem that was there from the get go, before swapping in a rebuilt 5 spd, clutch, etc. Neither outside door handles work, but both inners do as well as lock function. 185K on the clock. It seems unusual that both cables would be bad. Before I pull the panels, is there a possible el issue that might cause this? Searching, I haven't found any answers. Thanks for any input, Ron
Can you feel any pressure when you press the handle? If you do, it might be an actuator issue. If you don't it's very probably cables that rusted out and snapped.
Though really, pulling one panel is the fastest way to tell. They aren't very hard to pull. On post-facelift cars the armrest that goes over a screw is a bit infuriating to get off, but otherwise pull the 4 screws, unclip the interior door handle trim and just pop the whole thing off. Be careful about the foot light if there is one (I think it's on post-facelift cars? Not 100% sure).
Now, assuming it's the cable, getting the handle off isn't very complicated, but the restricted access makes it needlessly hard. For the rear one, it's best to invest in a long reach spherical allen key to avoid damage the threads (if you don't, you'll have to make do with a torx, but you'll likely damage the head a bit). For the front one, you'll have to use an allen key and lots of patience. The best one I found is a S-shaped key from Ikea which was small enough to do a full rotation.
Most of the time its the actuators and they get weak. If the inside works and you can lock yourself inside (window down) and then unlock them from the toggle = Sticky door handles or failed cables
Sticky door handles/ bad cables from the door handles. MINI also updated the design so if you have an older original door handle design (they aslo froze in the winter) they designed the new ones not to gum up and stick, some people hit them WD40 in the black part of the handle on the inside and try working them open.
El door locks work but no resistance when pulling on the outside handles. If it stops raining here today I'll pull a panel and see what's what. Thanks for the input guys! Cheers, Ron
If I had to say "I hope" - I would say: I hope (for you) that it's the inside door cable.
IMO - That is a much easier fix than having an outside door handle cable snap. Not so much swapping out the lock or remounting/bolting, but in my case the cable had to be routed in a specific way to the actuator lever or else it wouldn't work.
It was frustrating, extremely cramp, and painful practically working by braille in that dark confined space.
But if I can do it....
Let us know what you discover and how it turns out.
Best of luck!
So it looks like you need to replace the handle if the cable is bad, as they come as a unit? With rain abating here tomorrow I'll have a look see then. Lost my working garage, sob.
My kingdom for a nice garage! Cheers, Ron
Got in there today and found both cables disconnected and the levers on the actuators frozen. Anyone have any luck freeing them with penetrating oil? I'll pull the driver's and try I guess before getting new ones.
My driver's door outside handle cable physically broke where the small bar/anchor (at the end of the cable) connects into the lever. The actuator lever itself wasn't seized and moved freely.
I agree - I would try penetrating (PB blaster or lithium grease), to try to help free it up.
I also would recommend taking a good look at the cable routing before removing the door handle and lock assembly.
As I had mentioned; my cable had to be routed in a "weird" most unusual path around the doorlock cylinder.
Yours may be different.
Cheers, Ron
