New boost gauge is in and is now accurate.. it peaks 11psi so that's exactly where it should be...
I wired in the narrowband sensor too so its reading accurately also.
at the bank today the cel came on snd I had to limp the car back home. It had cyl1 missfire. So I narrowed it down to the dragon coilpack. So I tossed back on the stocker and will be exchanging the dragon coil..
I've also been slowly cleaning and scrubbing stuff inside and outside of the car. Just slowly getting it cleaner and cleaner until it's warm enough outside and I can remove the seats and shampoo the carpets and do a good interior detailing.
the parts for the clutch install have been slowly arriving.
O yea, i got the aftermarket pulley that was saposed to be a 19% and my luck , its a laaaaaame 15% so that too has to be sent back.. lol thats how budget builds go. O well.
weird thing too today , the cars clutch when going wot in 1-3 didnt slip one bit.. i couldnt believe it..lol car isnt fast but its definitely much peppier than stock. Definitely ! It's kinda amazing how much these few mods actually helped the cars performance already.. I CANT WAIT to get the clutch in , then the build is going to go into overdrive.

 

Can someone please tell me how much oil the sc takes on each side exactly...

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html

They fill till its seaps out. " I think it's 50mL in the back, and 250mL in the front"

 

Detroit Tuned and MiniMania state that it's 145 ml front and 40 ml rear. I think Mod Mini has similar numbers, though as I recall, he doesn't worry about getting the measurement to the exact ml.

 

Thx for sc fill info guys !
I got on the chomo ebrake handle and ordered a new boot. I will install my megan weighted shift **** once the adapter gets here.
I completely forgot I had a r50 spoiler and I was going to sell it UNTIL u realized I NEED it again because id ordered a jcw/gp style spoiler and I don't think it will fit behind the stock S spoiler and once the stock S spoiler is removed there will be 2x holes and sealant so rather than body work or clean it all up its easier and imo looks better to just toss on a r50 spoiler to cover it. I'd used this spoiler awhile back on my other mini and used it as a base to mount an aftermarket spoiler to. I was going to do that again BUT I got the new spoiler for under 200$ brand new so it was kinda a no Brainerd which route I was going to go. I plan on sanding and respraying the r50 and gp spoiler once it arrives and I plan to use bodymatch paint on them. I will be doing a chrome delete I decided on. I thought about going all out with the chrome but I just hate chrome even though it woulda accented the car very well.
when I was looking fir the r50 spoiler among all my extra parts I ended up finding a shift light I had used too on my other mini. So instead of mounting infront of the tach ( wouldn't fit ,only does with aftermarket steering wheel) I decided to mount it where you see. Imo I actually like it better because it always in my peripheral vision. It also adjustable so I have it set to stock redline and once it gets to about 200rpm befor redline it starts flashing all red to let me know " SHIFT STUPID ! "... SURPRISINGLY I like it better than my r56 jcw shiftlight in my other mini. This one activates at a lower rpm so it utilizes the lights more and I can adjust its redline and other stuff so if I wanna just short shift , I can easily set it accordingly. I once again did some exterior and interior cleaning..I cleaned best I could under the rubber exterior seals and interior door panels and footwells..

 

thx you, new fluid has been ordered..
do you guys by chance have any coupons or sale or even a scratch/return 19% pulley ? If not ah well , you guys are still best priced i was just hoping so because someone had shipped me a pulley they mistakenly though was a 19%.

 

Welcome.

Call in for % off for NAM Members, you have to call in and mention it when they place the order over the phone. Let them know you are on the MINI forums (its just for members here). Some restrictions apply like scratch and dent, super clearance and certain stuff. Its on its own and not combined if you are military/ first responder.

If you are military/ first responder see below. If you are, thank you for your service. We also price match.

https://www.ecstuning.com/TermsOfUse/

 

thx..I ordered it.....19% en route...
this weekend if all works out i will be taking a little trip to another members house a buying his exhaust and borrowing his pully puller then too.. lolol when ever I go out to my garage too between now and then I been spraying a little bit of penetrating lube onto the sc pulleys and shaft so hoopoopefully there's no issues removing it. I haven't had any trouble in the past using the cravenspeed pullers but there's a 1st fir everything.
just like yesterday , i had to use a fricken axle puller to remove my stock shift **** to put on the aftermarket weighted one..well here's the kicker , I had removed the stock shift **** multile times making sure I'd ordered rite size adapters ect. Then I got all the parts and ready to put them in and lol I couldn't get the **** off again. I put one foot in each footwell , the shifter between my legs and with both hands was pulling up and back on that stupid stock shifter FOR ALL I HAD . I may be small but I'm not weak , the thing didn't fricken budge.. lololol I got the best of luck.
so that's when my thinker starter ticking and I was like " F this b.s.........work smarter not harder " and remembered i had a puller that coincidently worked as a shifter puller better than it did pulling the axle.
I do have to get shorter retaining screws because they hangout abot past the body of the adapter and imo it looks like ****. So ille post a pic once i get the shorter screws in and the new ebrake boot in.. i do plan on a shiftwell cover / shiftboot delete too. That's why I don't care if the shifter boot is a little janky..

 

Sc has been cleaned up very well and got all and aby build off off it , I feel like all tgat buildup could reduce its heat dissipation..i changed the oil in it also. The rear oil was like new though the front was kinda low and filthy..I wonder if they'd changed the oil in the rear of it not too long ago wgen they put on a new waterpump.
I think I will run an electric waterpump with the sc because it will have a 19% pulley on it.. ive ran a 20% befor without any issues but every little bit i can help it i will. And besides, i have the davies waterpump already as an extra for my other car. So all ille need to do is get a waterpump to block flange and have an extension welded onto it so I can attach a hose to it and then to the electric waterpump. I will also fab a bracket too if it needs it and can't be wedged in anywhere.
I got the WHAT IM USING as an oil catch can. It's a Is pneumatic filter buuuut I thought it would be perfect and imo it is. It fit perfectly and installed simply and was 11$ shipped only..lol.. I know your thinking it's too small but it absolutely is not. Ours we use usually are far too large. On my other cooper that gets run decently hard and is pretty much a full build , In-between oil changes it has maybe 5-10ml of oil/condensation in it. So this one being as small as it is will be juuuuuuuuuust fine.
im going to grab a catback for the car tomorrow and borrow dudes pulley remover. Though I ACTUALLY kinda like the stock catback because it's quite, I know it's a matter of time before one of the mufflers blows out as it's kinda rusty and 1x has already been replaced so if one went bad , it's just a matter if time until the other one does.. and lol I'm not paying to put restrictions back onto the car. Soooo drone , here I come !
New ebrake boot came so once its not blowing 30mph wind out and 20 degrees , i will put that in. I got the weighted shift **** on and omfg does that make a HUGE difference in shift feel. It really REALLY smoothens it out and makes the throws effortless. Idk if it's got a short shifter , I doubt it does but my buddy said it felt and looked shorter than his. I'm almost positive its stock though judging by how the stalk was built. I will eventually throw in a shortshifter and ille do that once i put in tge wideband since the midpipe needs to be removed .

 

So it was sapose to be snowing this weekend sooooo I said F it and jetted on down to pick up the exhaust for me , exhaust fir bill and puller I needed to borrow.. dodged the storm and traffic wasn't bad either.. sweeeeeet.
I'm giving away the stock exhaust if anyone is interested.

 

Awesome, the sc pulley cane off without much fuss.. it took abit of heat but once heated it began to slide off..
wmw also got me the 19% pulley very fast and that arrived today so after I got that stock pulley off I was able to finish cleaning the snout and few other spots that the pulley was preventing me from getting at.. lol this supercharger actually is starting to shine pretty well ALONG with the ic horns... itle look nice once I slap in my grs motorsport ic off my other car..
I still need to get an intake manifold inorder to get it ported out so i can install the sc and the entire ported intake system along with it. Then I'm curious to see how the stock ic will hold up with a 19%.. hoping all the porting I did would allow me to continue using the stock ic but I highly doubt just porting would be sufficient enough to stop the increased boost..if anybody has an intake Manifold I got a few things I'd trade like a that digital/analog boost gauge I'd removed from this car I DID get a new boost sensor for it too for it to read accurate.

 

Took my car over my My parents house which is only 5min away..
The only issue i ran into durring disassembly was the very right intake Manifold stud had corrosion and it took alot of heat and wiggling to finally get it off. I was smart this time and sprayed the fuel injectors prior to trying to removing them because those buggers are stubborn when their seals swell up and harden. Thankfully I remembered I had pliers that grabbed the injectors without damaging them and I was able to get them out with some persuasion.
I'm pretty sure the rear main is leaking internally and weeping out where it can. The cars leaks nothing under it BUT the front of the eng n trans as you can see LITERALLY has an inch buildup of oil and grime.. I guess I better order an entire gasket kit abd replace all i can while its easier to do so.
I also found a heat tab on my block , so does that mean this car ALSO has had an engine replacement ? can someone please remind me where abd what to check to see IF my engine matches my vin.. would sure be nice if it's a lower mileage engine. I peeked at the tops if the valves and they looked like new , ille get a pic.. I can tell the alternator is new along with serpentine belt..
so now I need to port the intake Manifold and boost tube and put the other ported things and facelift sc on along with new tensioner..
if anybody wants to buy my sc and intercooler horns i removed today pm me..though i think someone might already want them. I will check...I hope so because lol I could use the extra bucks for some maintenance items.

 

Ported facelift running a 19% pulley has been installed , ported intake is on , new tensioner , new gatorback serpentine belt.. I also replaced all orings that came out like fuel injectors, waterpump and dipstick.. I also coated the oem metal gaskets in copper gasket maker.. i take every precaution I can to make sure I don't have any boost or vacuum leaks.
I thought I was in for a headache getting a coolant hose to fit between the waterpump and the metal T buuuuuut thankfully i had THE EXACT hose i needed that was left over from my silicone coolant hose kit i out on the other mini..lol i musta used the wrong hose...derderderder.
things are going very smoothly.. twist my testies and knock on wood that it continues going this well...
hope all is going well on your guys cars and builds..

 

Suspension stuff is all loosened..what a pita those lower balljoints are , again , I had to fight sized in balljoints atleast I got it to drop out the a arm but it's gonna be a **** knocking those balljoints out.. on my other mini each one took like 2hr of hammering and heating to get them to fall out finally..so I'm just gonna get the engine running crisp and clutch done and worry about Suspension come nicer weather. Though I will put the new hubs on asap.
i got off the shifter cables , steering rack bolt , loosened p.s reservoir and unplugged leveling switches and few other things.
I got the black door handle covers today and put those on.
I took out the rear part behind the intake and I will be modifying it so the filter gets much more , actual cool air from the front windshield vent.
Also i been continually spraying the trans and k member bolts so they should be as easy as they're gonna get to get out.
my buddy is coming by tomorrow with all the specialty stuff and he's going to be helping me. im HOPING to have the transmission out and clutch and stuff replaced and back in and buttoned up on Saturday and hoping soooooooo bad to drive it back home Sunday and then start the clutch break in. I just plan on taking it for a cruise to the back roads and back , a big circle I like to drive to just cruise. It has city and country roads so it will be perfect to break in the clutch and flywheel. Ille try and take it out once everyday like that until break in period is over... then it will need bigger injectors and a tune and that should take it to spring then. Then next step in the build begins..
also , do these heat tabs I keep finding mean this IS a replacement engine ???

 

Gp style spoiler arrived today , wrong color of course... ugh
Me n my buddy got the kframe out and trans down and new clutch in and transmission back in and mounts. We will be buttoning everything up tomorrow.
I got in the new swaybar bushings too. Thxfully my bar wasnt corroded underneath the old bushings. I've seen on multiple cars once they're removed the bar has rusted out and swelled up inside of the bushings and once you try and clean the scaling off , your left with 50% less bar where they've worn it down with corrosion.
clutch engagement feels incredible btw sofar. I have high hopes for this setup..
I found the car already had a 1x piece Valeo clutch kit in it but as you can see in the pics , either someone didn't know how to operate a clutch correctly or it was replaced looooooong ago.. but i cant image the later became the cars got 172k and 2x clutchs in that amount of time says " LEARN TO DRIVE A MANUAL CORRECTLY STUPID !!!!"
we replaced rear main seal and I didn't use the provided throwout bearing in the kit I used an exeddy one. I read thats where you cant chinse out so..
i cleaned out the inside of the transmission casing very well also because it was COATED in there like id assumed it was going to be.
I'm going to need to replace some suspension come spring but one thing at a time here. Just gotta get this clutch in and running rite and start the 750mile break in period on it..I feel like that's alot but o well , itle give me an excuse to go on some drives.
drives.come nice weather I need to get all the grime off the front of the engine too and ille then again drop kfrane and do all the bushings and steering ect and seals..
thank GOD for my buddy Eric. Lol I honestly wouldn't have bought this car had I not met dude awhile back.. he'd just did his clutch and I coincidentally come across a very affordable aero once again because it needs , a clutch.. so here we are..

 

Sweeeeeeeet ! The car fired RITE UP , only thing I needed to futz with was getting the rad fans to turn on ( I think the plug terminals were dirty )..
woooooow it revs up quick now with these mods..
I also stalled the car 5x times in the 2x mile trip home. The clutch is VERY light and easy to depress and its engagement is IMMEDIATELY. The second the clutch starts coming up it grabs.. awesome, just fricken awesome. There's a 750mile break in so ille put on like 50x miles a day or so until it's broken in , then in goes the 380cc and step colder plugs and then ille see how much more boost it makes with all the ported stuff and 19% pulley.
I replaced the swaybar bushings and both power steering hoses..
The supercharger and intake sound AMAZING , even at just slight partial throttle you can begin to hear the sc scream..
it's hard to say how I feel about the clutch because its so soon but once its broken in and im able to get on it fully. I will make a thread about my experience with this ebay stage 2 clutch abd 1x piece lightweight flywheel.
Lol checks out ny wrists , sticking my hands in all the tight areas wore off all my hair..lolol

 

75 miles in and im loving the clutch n flywheel sofar AND the extra power my car now has.. lol even just partial throttle in 3rd gear around 4500rpm I'm making 19lb of boost !!!!!! Sure better than the 8-10 the other stock SC and intake was making in the same rev n gear...
I will have to install another colling fan i have because once again , i ruind the fans resistor somehow doing a big job or from rinsing the coolant off after burping the cooling system.. lol I got that GREAAAAAAAT luck..
o well , so long as the clutch n intake are all up and running correctly, I can easily work out the little things around them..
replacing the fan will give me a good view too if all my new seals are sealing correctly..though i have no leaks under the car , the fromt of my engine was disgusting. Im not exaggerating either when i say it had like an inch thick buildup of oil n grime..

 

Gp style spoiler is on.. I will paint it once weather allows. Thx GOD the roof wasn't messed up under the stock spoiler like alot I've seen. They take paint off wgen removing alot if times and the 2x bolts holes start rusting..all I had to do was clean off the left over stock mounting residue which I had to bust out the cleaner wax and buffer but it came out nice.
I was going to install the r50 base duckbill style spiler to cover the holes and flaws but it cleaned up perfectly and looks just fine with 2x plugs in the stock mounting holes.
I also got in the new ebrake boot so now I have a matching shifter and ebrake handle..
I did find in my rafter my old side flares i had on my other mini fir awhile but idk if I wanna use them or not..

 

I removed the old bumper decals and cleaned it all up back there and gave the bumper a quick hit with my orbital polisher and omfg this sucka is going to come out very very nice once I cut n buff it in spring.. what a pita it was getting off the old decals , they were super hard and would chip off and I had to slide a razor blade behind them then take like 2hr cleaning off all the residue. The polisher finished it off then.
I got on my new rear hubs and cleaned everything up back there with a wire wheel. I also pualso the correct sized 5mm wheel spacers , hub adapters and new extended spline lug nut ( I prefer splined , they're almost impossible to strip ).
I would like to get the exhaust done soon but I really can't because I believe I pulled my pectoral muscle and WOW it hurts doing ANYTHING , even caughing is like being stabbed under ny arm pit..lol I used lots of heat and penetrating lube today to make things come off without having to fight them.
idk if just replacing the rears is going to keep off the abs n traction control light but I do have the front hubs and stuff I will replace soon.
i found my radiator fan too so ille install that soon. I ordered a new resistor for it too juuuuuust encase..lol , I've learned.

 

Awesome documentation, progress and the pictures detail the impressive amount of work.
I love seeing things taken apart.

 

thx you...

 

Dug out my radiator and cooling fan I'd saved off of my other mini and put them in today..was worried it wouldn't fix it but soon as it hit 220 the lowsided came on and I breathed a sigh of relief.
​​​​i also , if you look closely. I put in new seals all around the radiator so no air gets past it. I used the weather proof packing that my mishimoto radiator came with and used the old pieces as templates and cut them a tad larger so they'd press fit.
the 380cc injectors also arrived today ( jcw knock offs ) and ille toss those in maybe tomorrow if its not snowing n raining again like its been all day today...yuk , what a NASTY day out today..i think it's spose to be sunny and in the 40s tomorrow's, so if so , ille toss in the 380cc's and take it for a 50mile cruise like I now plan to do every day until I reach the 750mile breakin period...then it's time to test this little sucka out...

 

I forgot to mention I DID install a new bpv when I put on the ported intake stuff. I also adjusted and set it so it would fully close and not leak boost.
Well it definitely wasn't in the 40s today BUT it was sunny and it hasn't been sunny in WEEKS , so I took advantage and put in the 380cc injectors and step colder sparkplugs. i also replaced the line and conector to the fpr because I CRAZY about making sure my vehicles NEVER have any vacuum or boost leaks. Imo there's nothing more annoying than leaving power on the table and not running perfectly. I take time to ensure all the little things are done so at the end of the big project I'm not chasing down issues caused by something so simple to avoid. It also why I always use new gaskets and copper gasket maker on those dumb janky flat metal gaskets/seals
I then reset adoptions with inpa and gave it a quick test drive to the store down the block and it ran PERFECTLY, no sputters or missfires or anything. Not even a cel.
Kinda funny , I'm running catless headers ( with a defouler though) , larger tbody and intake, full ported intake system and sc with 19% pulley and even 380cc Injectors and its all running fine on stock tune. Yea , I'm I know not to it's full potential but good enough until the clutch breakin period is over. Then ille toss in 440cc injectors and have it tuned.
Btw if your wondering , i am using the ebay 40$ r53 jcw upgrade jcw knock off injectors. This is my 3rd time using them with nothing bad to say about them.

 

Went for a nice long ,all city driving cruise tonight.. within 1st 5min the car began feeling sluggish after I went full throttle for a second and I looked and was loosing vacuum and low on boost.
so i headed back home and instantly knowticed the fpr line I just put on, the adapter literally exploded from the boost.. so I put a stronger one on and went back out and put on 70some miles again and 2hr drive..lolol the car MAKES 20LB OF BOOST TOO !!!! WTF ?????? I can't belive it !!!!
fir such few mods it's a little rocket actually.. I went wot a few times just testing and clutch feels outstanding sofar. I did knowtice minior belt slip too at high rpm so i will drop down to abit shorter belt and then i bet i see atleast 1lb more of boost.. unreal , i cant believe all the porting I've done how much it's helping. With the 19% my iats are totally acceptable too and never spike too high and recover soon enough. Though it is in the 30s but still.. I'm making only 3-4lb less than I am with my Sprintex.. lol MAN ! I can't wait to get the ported head n cam on and see how much that'll help.
I wonder if the exhaust will help at all too at all. It's gotta atleast some since it's. 25 larger piping and mandrel bends with no mufflers just strait through resonators. Soon as I got a helper around ille toss it on.. should only take an hour.
btw YOU NEED to buy these pliers. They allow you to put on or remove the boost line on the intake Manifold as well as fuelrail without having to completely remove them . Matter fact , i end up using these alot on this car. Go buy ur self a set , i promise youll thank me..

 

+1 on the eBay 380cc injectors. There's a video out there somewhere on YouTube where a guy did a flow test and they're running 380cc. I've had those on my MC40 for six months with absolutely no problems. You can't beat the price. Also, you can buy a set of those pliers (different angle bends) at Harbor Freight for a very reasonable price.