I am at a loss! I have a 2005 MCS that ran perfect but decided to do a cam upgrade and after I was done the car will not start and have a 341 cam correlation code. I even pulled it back apart and the timing supposedly is correct. Two copper links are on the crank arrow (3-4 o clock) and cam sprocket arrow is on the copper link. I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders are about 35 psi?? I have fuel and spark. What the heck happened?

 

Is that correct for cylinder one on the compression stroke? I can't say I know how to set up timing in a mini, but it seems the only thing left if all your timing marks are lined up. That or you fried the ECU. I've done that before on my Jeep. Had to swap in one from another Jeep to figure it out. Luckily my buddy had the exact model as mine so it took a whopping 15 minutes to swap it in and find out my ECU died of death. Did you recently jump start it or use a battery charger?

 

Found the crank sprocket dowel pin sheared off causing the sprocket to rotate.

 

What happened? Those pins don't just shear on their own.

 

my own mistake has cost me dearly!! I installed a high performance cam with a new chain ect. and after installing the chain tensioner I assumed oil pressure would release it like on the 2nd gens but nope I was wrong. Started the engine and the slack of the chain caused it to come off and lodge down with the crank sprocket spinning and shearing the pin. Ok first off you know what they say about assumptions and I hardly ever assume but anyway the book calls for you to stick a pry bar down and put tension then release and that releases the tensioner. Then not realizing the sprocket has spun I’ve timed three times along with compression test and all four were low so I bought a reman head ( didn’t need) put back together and still no start. I scoured the internet and found a guy that his pin was sheared as well so I pulled the gear off and mystery solved. Since I can’t remove the pin I welded the sprocket to the crank because if I did I’d have to pull the engine. So there’s my horrible story.




the first picture is after the sprocket spun and the second is correct. Look at the flats that run the oil pump in correlation to the copper links and arrows.

 

Interesting. everything i've heard states that oil pressure will release the chain tensioner and it shouldnt be a big deal at low rpms until it is unstuck.

 

So the correct location of the oil pump flat is 11:30 or so?

 

that’s correct for the gen2 cars but in the Bentley manual it actually states you must release it with a pry bar. Yes I assumed and now paying royally for it.

 

don’t go by that

 

Well this project has been hell all together and went to install a new crank bolt and believe it or not “SNAP” the bolt freaking broke!!! Tried drilling out, tried easy out nothing. I was able to start the car and runs great, that’s a plus! So what’s the chance of the balancer coming off without a bolt. It’s a 2% ATI l. I’m thinking of putting a tack weld on it.

 

Wow. Just came across the same problem today, bit of a swine to do but drill it out using a carbide drill and a lot of care.